Ed Andrews
New Member
Thanks!
Small outboard motors on Capri 14.2
- Thread starter 4thbnnjvolCurassier
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Ed Andrews
New Member
Thanks. It appears that my Mod 3 (year 2000) boat has a solid transom that I can drill through and bolt to a smaller backer board (fiberglass)?
Yep the solid transom is great, my Mod 1 is hollow and flimsy, you can see how much work I put into reinforcing it. The outside backer boards are a wise move, and suggest you use generous sized flat washers and self locking nuts for the inside. Did you see my earlier posts? Use a motor mount like mine rather than clamping directly to transom, that will isolate the thrust and vibration (if you're using gas motor). The real stress on transom occurs when you haul your butt out of the water with the swim ladder. I'm about 190 lbs and there's a lot of fulcrum force when pushing on the bottom rung of the ladder to spring myself into the cockpit. Like a giant tuna! And I suggest using the small Minkota trolling motor. The gas, messiness, noise, extra weight, fumes, and vibration of a gas motor are not for me. And many smaller lakes won't allow them!
Ed Andrews
New Member
Yes, I did read your earlier posts. Thank you for that and this current reply. It is all very helpful. I will be using the small Minkota trolling motor (electric). No swim ladder for me. As was said in "Apocalypse Now"............................. "Stay in the boat!"
SoCalSailing
New Member
Did you get the answer to this? I also just bought a motor mount from CD, but also uncomfortable drilling holes in the transom. It's hard to get anyone interested in doing small repairs/updates.
WindSteady
New Member
I drilled holes in my transom (1999, Mod 3) for a swim ladder. It was no big deal.
SoCalSailing
New Member
Good to know. Did you add a wood or plastic backing like many have done?
WindSteady
New Member
I didn't. I followed the lead of the factory-installed motor mount and just used washers on the inside of the transom.
I’m about to buy a 2011 mod 3 that seems to be in great shape. Needs a motor mount, cleanup, and maybe a little rigging tweaking, but otherwise looks pretty ready to sail. I really appreciate the information sharing and photos on this forum. Super informative on what has worked for others with motors, batteries, motor mounts and the like. Thanks for all the great information! Happy sailing!
WindSteady
New Member
Your friend: https://sailingforums.com/C14_Handbook.pdf
I've been on this site a long time (about 6 years) and always enjoyed the interaction! If you check all my posts you'll see the story of what it's like to take in a tired old orphan and turn her into something special! And a few costly repairs along the way showed me that the BOAT (blow another thousand) situation can develop with a small boat as well as a larger one. Feel free to give a shout if you see anything on those old posts that piques your interest, there's a wealth of information there. PS, I would be real interested in knowing what kind of material they used to support the mast base on the Mod 3
Cheers!
Cheers!
WindSteady
New Member
It's teak, if I'm not mistaken.
I guess teak is rot resistant but not rot proof. I'm assuming the support in my 1986 Mod 1 was teak also. If trapped water keeps the board soaked for a long time the unfortunate owner will face the same issue I had. That board is the most important structural part of the boat, once it fails the Capri is not safe to sail anymore. Too bad they couldn't just use a material that would not be prone to failure!
Kerrcat14.2K
Member
Just some general comments to these threads: The good news is that I have not had occasion to investigate the mast/deck support materials in my 2016 Mod 3 14.2K which I purchased new from the factory; no gel coat cracks or signs of sagging or excess flexing of the fiberglass after seven years of pretty strenuous use. I am thinking that the answer may lay with either the Catalina factory in Florida or maybe someone at Catalina Direct is familiar with the construction basics. But, I do know that in over the more than fifty years of "messing" with fiberglass sailboats from larger production models to small dinghys I have dealt with fiberglass decking delamination, leaking through hull fittings, and some sagging support members. Always, I found that the causes of problems and yes, some rot, were intrusion of water through fittings or other cracks in the fiberglass surface. Since most fiberglass decking is laid up with an inner core of something (balsa, plywood, etc) we are dealing with a sandwich of materials which overall provide structural integrity while allowing for some flex and "give". Then, the builders are supporting that sandwich with other materials, usually wood or maybe a composite. We couldn't afford small sailboats if they were made with all impervious materials and they would not likely provide the hull flex etc which helps the boat deal with the stresses of water, sail energy, rigging energy etc. ; not to mention weight and cost considerations.
Having said all of that, we have to periodically inspect all fittings and any other penetrations for leakage, recaulk and rebed the resulting or potential sources of moisture. The biggest problem comes from buying a boat which has been improperly maintained and we inherit the usually hidden result. Been there, done that. Only boats which have given me no problems have been purchased new and well maintained.
So far, I haven't seen any posts about hull blistering, probably because the small dinghys are usually either dry sailed on kept on a mooring or at a dock only seasonally. Blistering of the hull will unfortunately educate you to the fact that fiberglass gel coat is not impermeable to moisture and any imperfection in the gel coat, or serious nicks etc, can lead to that condition. Then we are talking about the fiberglass skin itself being compromised. If you think that deck issues are bad, serious blistering in of the hull will cause you to scuttle the boat.
Having said all of that, we have to periodically inspect all fittings and any other penetrations for leakage, recaulk and rebed the resulting or potential sources of moisture. The biggest problem comes from buying a boat which has been improperly maintained and we inherit the usually hidden result. Been there, done that. Only boats which have given me no problems have been purchased new and well maintained.
So far, I haven't seen any posts about hull blistering, probably because the small dinghys are usually either dry sailed on kept on a mooring or at a dock only seasonally. Blistering of the hull will unfortunately educate you to the fact that fiberglass gel coat is not impermeable to moisture and any imperfection in the gel coat, or serious nicks etc, can lead to that condition. Then we are talking about the fiberglass skin itself being compromised. If you think that deck issues are bad, serious blistering in of the hull will cause you to scuttle the boat.