The 65 watt bulb is fine, 250 watt is way too much. You might try filling in the
screw holes with dowels and epoxy then re-drilling.
I use two ports and a computer case fan to get airflow blowing out one of the ports. Winter
is the best time for this due to low humidity.
The fiberglass is too thin to simply drill and screw, you need some type of backing plate.
There is a alternative called "rivet-nuts" or "rivnuts." This is what they used to attach the
splash rail with before they simply riveted it on. With the addition of 5200 sealant this might be strong enough for the
bow handle...
Another 1976/1977 "Anniversary model" Sunfish —$700— sold at auction:
Auction Price on '76 Sunfish... | SailingForums.com
The splashguard/rail / combing had been previously knocked off my borrowed Sunfish.I sailed it without the splashguard in place, but it was clear that the splashguard added surprising strength after kneeling on the deck. As a favor to my loaner-benefactor-parent-to-boys, I sealed the existing holes in the hull, covered them by moving the splashguard 3/8-inches forward, caulking with a water-soluble caulk (i.e., soluble until dry), and drilling new screw holes for the S/S screws. (In case it got knocked off again). Caulking is really unnecessary, as the fit is tight against even "blue water" over the bow.
The Styrofoam™ flotation does interfere with any new outer fasteners. As my winter-damaged deck suffered 3/8-inch holes, I found long plastic mollies —$5 each— that carried a stainless steel attachment plate into which a ¼-20 S/S bolt will thread. (Glue the plate in place, and discard the plastic parts):
Bedding deck hardware | SailingForums.com
To replace the bow handle, I'd suggest using the bow handle as a template, and drilling a new aluminum backing plate. Installation by cutting a rectangle through the hull's side will eliminate the need for trying to match new deck gelcoat.It's tight in there, so cut 'way forward. For a bow handle replacement, I used S/S oval-head bolts, not screws.
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Mark P, nice boat! You're on the right track - I'd probably stick with the lower wattage bulb and then add a small fan to get air flowing through the boat.
I'm in the metro Detroit area, and there is a club of Sunfish sailors as well. I haven't personally had a chance to sail with them yet, but they have several scheduled races on area lakes over the summer, and coordinate a couple longer camping weekends to sail together as well. I'd look into joining their Yahoo message group Yahoo! Groups to get more details where/when they sail.
Cutting access into the side means that bow handle repairs will be more difficult to detect: boat numbers can be strategically placed.Noted. Rivets seem like the simplest bet. However, the rivnuts would allow for simpler coaming removal in the future, it seems. I'll look into the rivnuts for the bow handle. However, does not sounds as sturdy as a 1/4" aluminum backing plate. If that same boat sold for $700, it seems like I didn't do too badly myself. I'll look into the mollies. Rivets seem so simple though. Doesn't laser performance simply rivet the coaming to the deck? Or did they change their procedure? By cutting the side I'd then have to match gelcoat anyways I guess. Because of that, my plan was to install a 4" inspection port at the bow. Now that you mention gelcoat...Does anyone have any experience repairing some gelcoat chips on their hull? Does anyone sell pre-mixed gelcoat in the right tone of white? Thanks Tag, I'll look into the group. Maybe we could meet up once the weather is warm.
My aging bow handle disintegrated in my hand, so as a temporary replacement, I used a length of plumber's strap, and short length of outboard starter cord and handle. (Seen on roto-molded kayaks, and actually worked pretty well on my Sunfish)."...You could just skip the handle till fall but it's
kind of a pain to lift and transport without one. Notice how the old wooden Sunfish had handles
on the transom. I think I might install a couple on my boats as it would greatly help in lifting.
Also, I would not use bolts to anchor your handle to the backing block. I would use screws and a hardwood backing block. Why? Because those handles corrode and wear out faster than you think. And they aren't as strong as you think. So, if (when) the handle fails, it's a simple matter of backing out the screws and replacing the handle with a new one. I did this with a very old Sunfish I have back east where the corroded handle... yup... broke off in my friend's hand when he tried to lift the bow with the handle. But it was a quick and simple replacement because there were screws, not bolts and nuts.
I think a stainless steel plate with 5100 would be just fine as a backing device. So long as you can permanently anchor the nuts for your bolts into position. Then if you bust the handle, swapping out a new one is no big deal.How about bedding a stainless steel plate in 3M 5100 and putting a layer of fiberglass over the plate.
Thanks for your progress report, and the great pictures.You could just skip the handle till fall but it's
kind of a pain to lift and transport without one.
On my borrowed Sunfish, I moved the coaming slightly, remounted it, using S/S screws. (No sealant, as with "the boys" around, it was likely to be knocked off again).Any recommendations on sealant? I'm thinking of using some silicone for the coaming and rivets. I have read some objections to this but the "marine" silicone is sometimes the same exact thing as the silicone that costs $10 less per tube. I'd also use this silicone to seal the deck plate behind the coaming.
Consider buying drill bits that are "left-hand-twist". As you drill (inHad to use a rotary tool to grind the screw heads flat so I could then drill the screw heads out.
That video is here:Someone posted a video a while back the showed what happens
when sailing and the two outside screws of the splash-rail are missing. You can see the hull in full flex-o-matic mode.
Skip the 3rd port on the front deck. There isn't enough room to get your hand in there and get to the bow handle area with the foam block that is in place (just did one last August). While splitting deck and hull is ill-advised, this area might be a good choice, but don't do the whole thing. Your side blocks are well in place.
The aft deck port is very helpful. You may find some dark yellow 2-part expanding foam (the "glue" that holds the Styrofoam in place), that can be carefully cut away and removed, but not where it is gluing. White Styrofoam must remain as it is structural. Do your best to avoid cutting where the Styrofoam block is if you can, but keep the port centered so you can reach things. You'll want to add a hiking strap at some point ...
DO NOT USE 5200!!!! 4200 is OK. If you ever need to repair again, 5200 is truly permanent. You ain't gettin' it off. Most of us use silicone sealer for bedding. Nothing on a boat is forever. Maintenance is part of the game. That said, Sunfish repairs are usually good for 20 years ...
Your dry out and getting down to 130 lbs. will go faster with two ports. Unless you smell fiberglass cooking, the stronger bulb may be ok. I've used a hairdryer, but that ran up the electric bill pretty quick. When it gets up to 90 degrees, covering half the deck with black trash bags and blowing air through the deck hole works well, too.
Greater Detroit Sunfish Club would love to have you come sail! They will give all kinds of help, too. Even, visit the first time to see all their boats, pick brains, and figure out what's next. I'm hoping to make their camping weekends this summer and maybe one more outing. A great group of people, family oriented, camping, bring your own lunch/dinner, etc., fleet.
As to your fiberglass repairs, visit www.westsystem.com and read their how to. Their product is terrific and they lay out simple instructions. I took their class at a conference in October. Four layers, sized up in overlap, are what you want for each. Also visit Yahoo!Groups and find the Sunfish_Sailor group; there are all kinds of examples of fixing holes on the flat and on the edge, how to make a form, etc. If that's not enough, visit www.windline.net, scroll to the bottom to find the Sunfish fixing guide ...
Good luck! Hope to meet you this summer.
Any idea what the dimensions are for the coaming rivets?Those fasteners you pulled out are not factory. Check with a Sunfish parts dealer to get the appropriate size rivets.
Lots of info on splitting a deck on our blog: Small Boat Restoration: Sunfish Pickin Columbus GA Hoops and Yoyo
As Gail said, don't split the whole deck. For a bow handle block you only need to go back 18 inches or so. Use rot resistant wood like cypress for the new backer, and consider coating it with epoxy. To put a new block in I would use 3M 5200 or thickened epoxy.
Cheers
Kent