Long time listener, 1st time caller...

Thread starter #1
1st post, joined back in Sept of 2014, when I picked up a Ray Greene Surf Sailer for my son who is in Boy Scouts after watching him sail an asst. Scoutmaster's boat. A coworker had a Sunfish destroyed in a storm at his house, but saved the mast, boom & sail. One of our asst. Scoutmasters is in Ship 131, a Sea Scout crew and put me in touch with their Skipper who got me a cheek and rudder and I ordered some more. The project stalled after that.

I just picked up a AMF Alcort Sunfish that is less work and am efforting to get it up and going now. My son made Eagle and is 17 1/2. We have a lake campout in a couple months and I'm trying to get her going.

I only have a serial number on the boat, there is no number on the transom. 87xxx. It has a hook at the front of the cockpit, no bullseye, just a swivel block and no gudgeon on the back, the rudder was mounted to the deck. Its gone leaving 3 holes. I had bought a gudgeon and 3 large ports, was thinking of putting one way in the back with the lip covering the back 2 holes. I'll get a backing plate with a groove and install my new stuff.

I've got a crack on the bottom of the transom and amidships on the starboard side at the chine.

I'll post pics when I get to work from my computer instead of dealing with this phone.
 

beldar boathead

Well-Known Member
#2
Sounds like your boat is a 1970 or 71 - the rudder mounts were different then - what is called “old style.”

Nice to have you posting on the board!!
 
Thread starter #5
The Surf Sailer (SS) is behind the fence, upside down. The 'fish is in the garage right now. I'm not sure if I want to keep the SS or not, The daggerboard hole is bigger on the SS both in width and length. My coworker that gave me the sails also gave me a daggerboard and rudder off a bigger boat that I could cut down to fit the SS. It'd be cool to have to boats so my son and I could sail together.

Is Marine RX what I want to use for repairs? Since I'm putting in the access port at the transom for the gudgeon backing plate, I'll be able to get to the backside of that spot easily. I've thought about the second port amidships, I could put it starboard go get the backside of that one as well, get a cat bag for that port for cell phone and keys.
 
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Thread starter #7
Crikie, so I need to look where the cockpit meets the bottom of the deck to see if its a dreaded 71 model?

I also need to weigh it this evening, I'm thinking its a bit heavy.
 

Webfoot1

Active Member
#8
I'd check for the rare but not unheard of 'Dreaded 71' problem first. Chance is if
it's made it this far without problems you're probably not a recipient of one.
Anyone known how many boats were recalled?

Time to break out the Dremel, Fiberglass cloth and mat.
 

Webfoot1

Active Member
#10
I would not think more than 100 Dread 71's were made before they realized there
was a problem. If 300,000 Sunfish have been produced to date the chances of
coming across one are almost nil. There was one on this forum some years back
and it was not worth trying to fix. Luckly, it's not a problem that can remain hidden
so I'm sure Mr. Hampton's is Sunfish is A-OK.
 
Thread starter #11
I grabbed the Harken block off the RGSS last night, was busy changing oil in the wife's car and didn't get to mess with the 'fish any, other than to notice the chine damage is port, not starboard. I see the drawings with the dashed lines for the foam blocks. The damage is 2"-3" closer to the bow from the tip of the coaming. Trying to figure out how close to get without getting into the foam.

Are there any drawings for a plywood rack to store this on its side that one could put casters on? Maybe add some rockers to the back of it so you could roll it flat? Sort of a boat rotisserie. I'm thinking I'd store it inside, drain down.
 

Ghost Rider

Planing into eternity...
#12
I built a similar rack for the Minifish, no casters & no rockers, just a curved strip of ply on a simple wooden frame conforming to the starboard rail with the drain always down. I'd rinse the boat after each (saltwater) use, then remove the drain plug and the inspection port hatch covers (2) for ventilation... a good system for keeping the boat dry, and the rack meant the boat took WAY LESS ROOM in storage. I kept the spars on a separate rack under the old carport, and everything else went into my room once the gear was dry. The kind of rack you're talking about would have to be slightly wider, my simple rack was only about 6" wide, but it was more than sufficient to support the rail of the Fish... the other rail leaned against the north wall of the house (out of the sun). The resulting "tunnel" created by the leaning boat was just big enough for my grown cats to cruise through, which they often did, LOL. I used to pad the rack with an old Mexican blanket, just to avoid any scratches in the paint on the rail. :confused:
 
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Thread starter #13
I got the 5" rear access port cut in last night, now onto the midship one to access the chine damage on the port side.

Any idea on the foam location so I can try to avoid? or am I just SOL as I'll be cutting thru it to access the backside?

I was thinking of the circle location as I'm not sure I can get the gelcoat stain out. Plus behind the coming seems better than in front, or is forward better so I'm not sitting on it? I'd planned on this location for a catbag. (The damage is about the arrow location on the chine.) 12 cowling-port.jpg
 

L&VW

Well-Known Member
#16
Just repair the chine damage from the outside. It'll be fine if done properly
Take another look. I think a referral to the thread,
"Starting from the Beginning" videos would be of great help.

_________________________________


I can't check it right now, but my recollection is that there is a Styrofoam block between your circle and your arrow.

Larry Hampton said:
The Surf Sailer (SS) is behind the fence, upside down. The 'fish is in the garage right now. I'm not sure if I want to keep the SS or not, The daggerboard hole is bigger on the SS both in width and length. My coworker that gave me the sails also gave me a daggerboard and rudder off a bigger boat that I could cut down to fit the SS. It'd be cool to have to boats so my son and I could sail together. Is Marine RX what I want to use for repairs? Since I'm putting in the access port at the transom for the gudgeon backing plate, I'll be able to get to the backside of that spot easily. I've thought about the second port amidships, I could put it starboard go get the backside of that one as well, get a cat bag for that port for cell phone and keys.

I think we can all agree that a second Sunfish would give greater satisfaction. ;)

.
 

signal charlie

Well-Known Member
Staff member
#19
Yes there is a foam block right under the outer screws of the coaming that is best to leave alone. Do a blind patch for the chine, examples on our blog. Put inspection port between coaming and daggerboard trunk, order a dry bag from APS.

A tip for that port on the stern, bed it well with sealant, just put in the fore and aft screws, and neatly fill the other screw holes with sealant. That lets the port stay flat vs get pulled out of plane on that deck curve, and the cap will screw and unscrew easier. If you must drill 4 more holes then don't tighten those screws too much.

RM 4 Blind Hole Patch.jpg

chine backer.jpg

chine backer threads.jpg

chine patches.jpg
 
Thread starter #20
Excellent, I have not installed the port yet, I did buy 6/32 countersunk allen screws, washers and polyloc nuts (all SS) and haven't drilled the holes.

I decided (based on ya'll (I am an Okie)) not to install another port and just repair the chine. 20180710_070214.jpg
 
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