Long time listener, 1st time caller...

Larry Hampton

New Member
1st post, joined back in Sept of 2014, when I picked up a Ray Greene Surf Sailer for my son who is in Boy Scouts after watching him sail an asst. Scoutmaster's boat. A coworker had a Sunfish destroyed in a storm at his house, but saved the mast, boom & sail. One of our asst. Scoutmasters is in Ship 131, a Sea Scout crew and put me in touch with their Skipper who got me a cheek and rudder and I ordered some more. The project stalled after that.

I just picked up a AMF Alcort Sunfish that is less work and am efforting to get it up and going now. My son made Eagle and is 17 1/2. We have a lake campout in a couple months and I'm trying to get her going.

I only have a serial number on the boat, there is no number on the transom. 87xxx. It has a hook at the front of the cockpit, no bullseye, just a swivel block and no gudgeon on the back, the rudder was mounted to the deck. Its gone leaving 3 holes. I had bought a gudgeon and 3 large ports, was thinking of putting one way in the back with the lip covering the back 2 holes. I'll get a backing plate with a groove and install my new stuff.

I've got a crack on the bottom of the transom and amidships on the starboard side at the chine.

I'll post pics when I get to work from my computer instead of dealing with this phone.
 
Sounds like your boat is a 1970 or 71 - the rudder mounts were different then - what is called “old style.”

Nice to have you posting on the board!!
 
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This the Surf Sailer
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The Surf Sailer (SS) is behind the fence, upside down. The 'fish is in the garage right now. I'm not sure if I want to keep the SS or not, The daggerboard hole is bigger on the SS both in width and length. My coworker that gave me the sails also gave me a daggerboard and rudder off a bigger boat that I could cut down to fit the SS. It'd be cool to have to boats so my son and I could sail together.

Is Marine RX what I want to use for repairs? Since I'm putting in the access port at the transom for the gudgeon backing plate, I'll be able to get to the backside of that spot easily. I've thought about the second port amidships, I could put it starboard go get the backside of that one as well, get a cat bag for that port for cell phone and keys.
 
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Crikie, so I need to look where the cockpit meets the bottom of the deck to see if its a dreaded 71 model?

I also need to weigh it this evening, I'm thinking its a bit heavy.
 
I'd check for the rare but not unheard of 'Dreaded 71' problem first. Chance is if
it's made it this far without problems you're probably not a recipient of one.
Anyone known how many boats were recalled?

Time to break out the Dremel, Fiberglass cloth and mat.
 
I would not think more than 100 Dread 71's were made before they realized there
was a problem. If 300,000 Sunfish have been produced to date the chances of
coming across one are almost nil. There was one on this forum some years back
and it was not worth trying to fix. Luckly, it's not a problem that can remain hidden
so I'm sure Mr. Hampton's is Sunfish is A-OK.
 
I grabbed the Harken block off the RGSS last night, was busy changing oil in the wife's car and didn't get to mess with the 'fish any, other than to notice the chine damage is port, not starboard. I see the drawings with the dashed lines for the foam blocks. The damage is 2"-3" closer to the bow from the tip of the coaming. Trying to figure out how close to get without getting into the foam.

Are there any drawings for a plywood rack to store this on its side that one could put casters on? Maybe add some rockers to the back of it so you could roll it flat? Sort of a boat rotisserie. I'm thinking I'd store it inside, drain down.
 
I built a similar rack for the Minifish, no casters & no rockers, just a curved strip of ply on a simple wooden frame conforming to the starboard rail with the drain always down. I'd rinse the boat after each (saltwater) use, then remove the drain plug and the inspection port hatch covers (2) for ventilation... a good system for keeping the boat dry, and the rack meant the boat took WAY LESS ROOM in storage. I kept the spars on a separate rack under the old carport, and everything else went into my room once the gear was dry. The kind of rack you're talking about would have to be slightly wider, my simple rack was only about 6" wide, but it was more than sufficient to support the rail of the Fish... the other rail leaned against the north wall of the house (out of the sun). The resulting "tunnel" created by the leaning boat was just big enough for my grown cats to cruise through, which they often did, LOL. I used to pad the rack with an old Mexican blanket, just to avoid any scratches in the paint on the rail. :confused:
 
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I got the 5" rear access port cut in last night, now onto the midship one to access the chine damage on the port side.

Any idea on the foam location so I can try to avoid? or am I just SOL as I'll be cutting thru it to access the backside?

I was thinking of the circle location as I'm not sure I can get the gelcoat stain out. Plus behind the coming seems better than in front, or is forward better so I'm not sitting on it? I'd planned on this location for a catbag. (The damage is about the arrow location on the chine.)
12 cowling-port.jpg
 
Just repair the chine damage from the outside. It'll be fine if done properly

Take another look. I think a referral to the thread,
"Starting from the Beginning" videos would be of great help.

_________________________________


I can't check it right now, but my recollection is that there is a Styrofoam block between your circle and your arrow.

Larry Hampton said:
The Surf Sailer (SS) is behind the fence, upside down. The 'fish is in the garage right now. I'm not sure if I want to keep the SS or not, The daggerboard hole is bigger on the SS both in width and length. My coworker that gave me the sails also gave me a daggerboard and rudder off a bigger boat that I could cut down to fit the SS. It'd be cool to have to boats so my son and I could sail together. Is Marine RX what I want to use for repairs? Since I'm putting in the access port at the transom for the gudgeon backing plate, I'll be able to get to the backside of that spot easily. I've thought about the second port amidships, I could put it starboard go get the backside of that one as well, get a cat bag for that port for cell phone and keys.

I think we can all agree that a second Sunfish would give greater satisfaction. ;)

.
 
I didn’t see a pic of the damage to the port side, but don’t put an inspection port to the side. Center it behind the coaming. Have you tried a bit of Soft Scrub on the deck stain?
 
Yes there is a foam block right under the outer screws of the coaming that is best to leave alone. Do a blind patch for the chine, examples on our blog. Put inspection port between coaming and daggerboard trunk, order a dry bag from APS.

A tip for that port on the stern, bed it well with sealant, just put in the fore and aft screws, and neatly fill the other screw holes with sealant. That lets the port stay flat vs get pulled out of plane on that deck curve, and the cap will screw and unscrew easier. If you must drill 4 more holes then don't tighten those screws too much.

RM 4 Blind Hole Patch.jpg


chine backer.jpg


chine backer threads.jpg


chine patches.jpg
 
Excellent, I have not installed the port yet, I did buy 6/32 countersunk allen screws, washers and polyloc nuts (all SS) and haven't drilled the holes.

I decided (based on ya'll (I am an Okie)) not to install another port and just repair the chine.
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Could I have done such damage with a 6-pound sledgehammer? :eek:

Sand and cut "back" until no more signs of "white" damaged fiberglass roving can be seen. (Maybe an inch or two, all-around). Tape a plastic grocery bag on the chine—next to the site. Lay cloth on the bag and saturate with epoxy—allow to cure. Feed this "backing plate" into the site, and use strings (as above), bungee cord, or pop-rivets to keep in place. Moosh fresh epoxy around the margins, lay-up more cloth, be especially diligent about removing bubbles in the wet cloth. (Use a roller or poke repeatedly with a "flux brush"). Sand and paint—or, with a little more trouble, gelcoat.

.
 
That's a great picture, we can see the white gelcoat chipped away, not a big issue and then the loose fiberglass cloth fibers which are in issue, that is structural damage vs cosmetic. The milky opaque fiberglass is crushed also, it should be a little more clear like dark honey. So now you'll sand or file away the loose bits, wear a fiberglass dust mask, goggles, long sleeves etc...and try not to track the bits into the house. There should be a small depression in the middle when done, tapered about half an inch around where you found good 'glass.

Side holes before filing with ceramic tile file (lots of applications on the boat, flat on one side, rounded on the other).

Crystal diamond file chine before.jpg


After filing.

Crystal chine holes filed.jpg


Here's a chine patch, yours will be taco shaped. You'll have to figure out a way to pull it snug while it dries.
merci chine patch.jpg


We used a hangar, but strings would have worked with maybe a paint stick inside for support.

merci chine patch installed.jpg


Here is a link to our fiberglass extravaganza boat MERCI

Okie? Well we say Hook Em Horns!
Kent and Skipper
 
BOOMER!!!!

So the trim is a little bent in places and some rivets have popped.

Has anyone ever removed the trim and reinstalled it with the rivets down? It would look cleaner.

I'm thinking the holes wouldn't be in the same spot and if they were, I could drill a new hole next to it.

Removing the trim and coming would allow me to power cut the topside with rubbing compound (or equal).
 
BOOMER!!!! So the trim is a little bent in places and some rivets have popped.
Has anyone ever removed the trim and reinstalled it with the rivets down? It would look cleaner. I'm thinking the holes wouldn't be in the same spot and if they were, I could drill a new hole next to it. Removing the trim and coming would allow me to power cut the topside with rubbing compound (or equal).
Interesting thought. :cool:

I had a piece of trim in my hand a few weeks ago, and can't remember if the cross section of trim is symmetrical!:confused: 'But, seems to me, by flipping the trim, the drilled holes would be so close (side to side), that you might have to drill a fresh hole at each location. :(

I've chosen to drill a fresh hole next to each defective rivet. The old (otherwise useless) hole will be taped underneath, get an "injection" of resin/slurry, and later, install a new rivet.

I'll have to suffer the loss of points at the next Sunfish show. ;)

.
 
This project is currently paused while my son finishes his kitchen table he made for his mother in woodshop last semester.
It was pretty rough, shop teacher had 25 kids, no help and with class being 50 minutes long, its hard to get stuff done. A buddy with a cabinet shop that I do CAD drawings on the side for, donated his time in showing my son how to fix his table, it's now at home for final sanding and staining.

I've also been in the automotive repair business, I'm my only client!! Fixing a '95 Suburban up to sell, buying my daughter's '08 Mountaineer and fixing it up a bit for my other daughter, and fixing the A/C in my son's '96 Sonoma (its HOT in Oklahoma). And we're painting (primarily my wife is painting) our house.

But my timeline is to get this fixed by mid August so we can take it to our annual lake campout for the Scouts.


But I haven't stopped reading and learning, where is this thread at?
Take another look. I think a referral to the thread,
"Starting from the Beginning" videos would be of great help.
 
I built a similar rack for the Minifish, no casters & no rockers, just a curved strip of ply on a simple wooden frame conforming to the starboard rail with the drain always down. I'd rinse the boat after each (saltwater) use, then remove the drain plug and the inspection port hatch covers (2) for ventilation... a good system for keeping the boat dry, and the rack meant the boat took WAY LESS ROOM in storage. I kept the spars on a separate rack under the old carport, and everything else went into my room once the gear was dry. The kind of rack you're talking about would have to be slightly wider, my simple rack was only about 6" wide, but it was more than sufficient to support the rail of the Fish... the other rail leaned against the north wall of the house (out of the sun). The resulting "tunnel" created by the leaning boat was just big enough for my grown cats to cruise through, which they often did, LOL. I used to pad the rack with an old Mexican blanket, just to avoid any scratches in the paint on the rail. :confused:
Do you have a picture of the deck of your Minifish with the inspection port hatch covers? My minifish needs the ventilation as the last owner left the drain plug open.
 
I may have a photo or two posted at another site, I'll have to check later today, gotta run an errand or two in town, and the realtor expects one couple to make an offer on the house today. I'll see if I can find pics... I put my inspection ports in the cockpit, as I did NOT need them for repair work, they were solely for ventilation. That placement worked well enough to keep the boat dry, but you can also place ports fore and aft, so air travels through the hull while the boat is on its rack, trailer, whatever. Unless you're specifically installing a port to reach an area where repairs are being made, you have leeway in the placements, I'm sure others will chime in with suggestions... you want to avoid placing ports where they might weaken the structural strength of the mast step & surrounding deck, daggerboard well or trunk, etc., etc. Gotta run, but I'll be back later like a bad rash... :eek:
 
Haven't found any Minifish port photos yet, but installation of inspection ports is a common task, and I had no reason to photograph the ports directly, yeah? However, Tag's photos make a good point: even if you don't need ports for current repair tasks, you can place yours where they'll be handy in case future repairs or modifications are necessary. :rolleyes:

Just had a big ol' downpour here, including hail in July, LOL. Ground got a good soaking, and it needed it too, so far the monsoon has been weak this year, and if this area doesn't receive more rain in the near future, the drought will be back with a vengeance. Won't make much difference to me personally, since I'm heading for the coast, but the forest & its critters need the rain badly... :confused:

Edit: I should add that I bought the ports with the clear hatch covers, that way I could look right through the cockpit bulkhead and see whether any water was in the hull... if the ports resembled operational front-loading washers down at the laundromat, I knew I was in trouble, LOL. ;)
 
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I added a port at the bow to reattach the bow handle with a epoxied backer block cut from an old rudder. My other Mini has one in the cockpit rear wall, cut to reattach a loose flotation block.
 
I added a port at the bow to reattach the bow handle with a epoxied backer block cut from an old rudder. My other Mini has one in the cockpit rear wall, cut to reattach a loose flotation block.
I need to reattach the bow handle and halyard cleat. Something is loose behind the cockpit, so may need the flotation block reattached. Did not mean to hijack Larry's post, so will start a new one for minifishers.
 

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