PICS I made a jib and it actually works

A Post sharing pictures from your sailing adventures.

johnhuff

New Member
Last year I made a jib sail for 1965 Sunfish using cheap woven house wrap. Rather than hard mounting the deck hardware, I used suction cups the fairlead + cam cleat combo. I took it out for the first time earlier this week in light winds and it actually went surprising well. Definitely some kinks to work out but overall it was super fun to sail.

I made a video of the first sail on youtube but I'm not allowed to post links, so I just attached some photos and screenshots from the video. If you have any questions I'd be happy to answer them :)
 

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Can you post a video description we could search for? I can post the link for you.
 
Can you post a video description we could search for? I can post the link for you.

Yeah the title is "Scuffed Sailing: Sunfish with a DIY Jib". Channel name is my name. Appreciate it! :)

Nevermind, you got it, thanks!
 
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are your fittings all 3D printed things you've made yourself?
  • the mast cap with the double fairlead and rings for the jib
  • the red mast cleat(?)
  • fixture at the front of the jib bowsprit (that sits over the handle)
  • fixture connecting the jib bowsprit to the mast
  • jib control fixture (that you suction cup mounted to the deck)
I wonder if you could somehow have an extra control line on the jib to pull it forward, almost to "bunch it up" (almost like a roller jib, but no roll, just bunches it up) before you tack the main sail, and then your normal port and starboard control lines would reset the jib shape after you complete the normal tack.
 
are your fittings all 3D printed things you've made yourself?
  • the mast cap with the double fairlead and rings for the jib
  • the red mast cleat(?)
  • fixture at the front of the jib bowsprit (that sits over the handle)
  • fixture connecting the jib bowsprit to the mast
  • jib control fixture (that you suction cup mounted to the deck)
I wonder if you could somehow have an extra control line on the jib to pull it forward, almost to "bunch it up" (almost like a roller jib, but no roll, just bunches it up) before you tack the main sail, and then your normal port and starboard control lines would reset the jib shape after you complete the normal tack.

Yep. I designed everything in CAD and 3D printed using PETG. I plan on making the files available somehow once I get everything organized. 3D printing allows for some construction techniques that wouldn't really be possible otherwise, like having the solid steel rings captured in the parts. I am scared of commitment and drilling random holes in my well preserved 55 year old boat, so everything was designed to be non-destructively mounted (either clamped on, suctioned on, or tourniquet-ed on). I'm currently making a version 2 of the mast cap which uses internal pulley wheels with ball bearings to get rid of the friction/wear issue when hoisting.


I wonder if you could somehow have an extra control line on the jib to pull it forward, almost to "bunch it up"

Interesting idea, but ultimately I don't think it's too necessary. The jib makes it around just fine when tacking, although the lines do tend to get caught on the interlocking eye bolt of the top spar (attached photo). However, I think this could be solved by making some type of 3d printed cap for the nut to allow the line to slip off.
 

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  • Scuffed Sailing_ Sunfish with a DIY Jib 32-1 screenshot.png
    Scuffed Sailing_ Sunfish with a DIY Jib 32-1 screenshot.png
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Nice innovative thinking, and cool looking to boot. Can't wait to see what refinements you make.
 
Nice innovative thinking, and cool looking to boot. Can't wait to see what refinements you make.
Thank you :) I've already made fixes for the major issues, just need to go test it on the water this Saturday. If it goes well I might make a new sail with proper sailcloth.
 
I wonder if it would help to mount the fairleads for the jib control lines out near the tips of the splashguard - either on the deck itself or maybe even directly on the splashguard - and then mount the jib cleats at the forward edge of the cockpit.

and you need to get a mainsheet ratchet block!
mainsheet-cleat-parts-list.png
 
I wonder if it would help to mount the fairleads for the jib control lines out near the tips of the splashguard - either on the deck itself or maybe even directly on the splashguard - and then mount the jib cleats at the forward edge of the cockpit.

and you need to get a mainsheet ratchet block!
I actually ended up getting a second set of suction cups for fairleads, and then the set I currently have will be mounted between the splashguard and cockpit. I quickly realized that if the wind is strong enough, it's not good to have to lean all the way across the boat to cleat the jib sheet in. These new suction fairleads are much easier to make, as it basically just involves screwing a shoulder eyebolt directly into the suction cup.

As for the mainsheet block, I actually installed one the day after shooting this video lol. Video was shot on Monday then Wednesday I went out and raced in some fairly epic conditions (for a inland lake). Apparently it was 20 knots with gusts to 25 at one point, but it was probably more like 15-20 most of the time I was on the water. Doubt I would've survived without a mainsheet block.
 
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The jib design goes remarkably suited to the lateen rig.

With your leftover sailcloth, you could add a "staysail".

(Just a thought). ;)
 
Very creative work, John!

Have you noticed any tiller balance problems like excessive lee helm?
With the combination of a Jens rig and moving the goosneck very far forward, the helm actually felt very balanced. I think typically I have a bit of weather helm anyway, so it may have even helped to balance.

It would be hard for me to feel an imbalance in this light of wind, as I am using a much more vertical rudder than the class legal one. I plan on upgrading to the new style rudder, so I'll be making a new vertical rudder then. I might make a post detailing that when I do so.
 

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I agree with Tag you need a mainsheet block. You have a race sail with a lot of fullness at the bottom. You want the lower boom to bend to take advantage of the fullness. The rachet will get the boom to bend and improve performance.
 

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