gzblack2
Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication
Any idea what may have been mounted in these two locations?
Cleats maybe? But for what reason?
Cleats maybe? But for what reason?
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Clamcleats. The purpose was so the skipper could cleat the sheet.
Those were “the thing” on both Sunfish and Lasers back in the day. Inexpensive and indestructible.It's most likely a pair of these that's been there:
View attachment 34855
Not a good choice for sheets, as they're quite "sticky" and slow to release.
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Agreed. Looking at the orientation of the holes, your boat's original owner likely installed clam cleats like the ones shown by LaLi and Beldar.... not cam cleats as I incorrectly said in my earlier post. Cam Cleats would be better for the mainsheet, IMHO. See photo below. Clam Cleats are often used for the outhaul and cunningham lines on the boom as they are less frequently adjusted.It's most likely a pair of these that's been there:
Not a good choice for sheets, as they're quite "sticky" and slow to release.
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Probably one of the funniest posts I've read lately. Crack me up Mr WindIf the Sunfish is stored in Florida, the holes are there to let the ants out.
Thanks for the replies
What’s the preferred set up these days?
Yes Clamcleats are ok for control lines which you don't need to uncleat fast, but much less so for sheets, as you have to pull the line quite some way back first before they release.others have and will poo-poo the use of clam cleats
The holes are most likely for the old version of CL201, which is a little longer than the current one, so you might have to fill and drill a few holes anyway.If you still want cleats, then I would just replace the missing clam cleats. The holes are already there, which will save you the trouble of filling the old holes and drilling the new ones.
Yes Clamcleats are ok for control lines which you don't need to uncleat fast, but much less so for sheets, as you have to pull the line quite some way back first before they release.
The holes are most likely for the old version of CL201, which is a little longer than the current one, so you might have to fill and drill a few holes anyway.
I'd go for cam cleats positioned like Weston's + risers (to get them closer to the level of the block sheave), or no cleats at all.
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very generous of you.Hi Lali. For a two blocked laser in a blow, or for an FD Genoa, or for any racing, sure, I agree with you. But for an old Sunfish, which isn’t likely to be racing, I just don’t see that it matters all that much. So you over-trim by an inch for two seconds, so what? It just isn’t a big deal in recreational sailing. As for being able to release the sheet quickly, that may be true in high wind, but In a blow you are not/ should not be cleated anyway, which of course is my first preference: no cleats.
Agree with you on the risers.
Gzblack2, measure the holes and let us know. I have a pair of never used CL201 clam cleats kicking around that are at least twenty years old. If the holes match, they are yours for the asking. I’ll even throw in the teak risers and stainless hardware you need to make it a completely plug and sail affair. The only stipulation is that you will need to tell us how well, or not, they work. Let me know on that.
very generous of you.
I’ll measure when I get a chance this weekend.
Although I won’t be sailing her ‘til next spring.
My other boat has a swivel cam cleat, any downsides to that design?
American Precision Marine... yeah, that's old. Apparently it was exactly Long Island that they called home, but ceased production a very long time ago.This is the swivel cam cleat with a bullseye, must be old as I haven’t found pictures of this model online.
It works for me, I’m just learning to sail and haven’t ran into an issue with it as of yet.
It's 72 mm for the CL201, 84 mm for the CL201-O ("O" actually meaning "old").Got a chance to measure the holes on the deck. They are a little distorted but seem to be 3 1/8-5/16”center to center.
...I'd go for cam cleats positioned like Weston's + risers (to get them closer to the level of the block sheave)...
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Well, the Sunfish is pretty exceptional in that the last sheet block is mounted on the deck, on the same plane as the cleats. I was thinking about raising the cleat up to the level of the lower edge of the block sheave, so that the sheet runs more or less horizontally between them, but that would be a "max high" position, and a lower one probably works fine. It's one of those things you need to test in real life. A standard Harken riser (293 or 295), or two stacked on top of one another should do the trick. (Endless possibilities for homebuilding, too, of course.)What thickness do you recommend?
can anyone guess what happened when I took her out?