I also have a blue Folbot (wood frame). This green and yellow (metal-framed) Folbot came with a complete sail kit: A tower of power with 45 square feet of sail.You have a Folboat? Awesome! Would love to see a photo or two. Those are great examples of engineering.
"Riv-nut" pictured to the far left in the photo below."...Rivet nuts (rivnuts) were used back then with marine grade stainless machine screws, but a rivnut gun and rivets will run you about $150+.
The metal thing appears on all of my five Sunfish rudders.Here are all the mahogany component hanging with their first coat of spar varnish. The long skinny thing is our replacement tiller extension we made out of... white oak, of course. My son thought it was supposed to be ash. We stained it "Red Oak" to make it colored more like the mahogany, but I rubbed off some coloration only to notice later the sealed mahogany darkened more. I should have kept it "Red Oak" full strength.
I believe I read somewhere that they need 8 coats? Is this true? I know they need to be as tough and waterproof as possible. 8 coats?
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I noticed a few interesting features after the sanding.
Damaged screw hole in the dagger board. I planned on building a masking tape dam on each side and filling the void with two-part epoxy, maybe filled with glass fibers.
Good idea?
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What is this metal thing in the rudder hinge area? Probably intended for strengthening. It appears to be steel. Is this OEM or aftermarket?
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Should I try this to reinforce this crack in the rudder/tiller bolt hole area in the same way as above mentioned method?
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And what is this little black sticker on the tiller near the joint for the extension? OEM or aftermarket? Do I need to put it back?
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Here is the area where I took the photo of the gelcoat pores. The photo is bottom up. This condition is present on the gunwale more or less all around.1) Rub some dirt on those gelcoat divots, you won't notice them from a galloping horse. See Problem Solving Matrix #1: Galloping Horse. Can you back up and take a photo of where that area is?
There is a slight curvature to the plate that seems to match well to the keel? This is correct or should it be flat? Maybe the CARRIAGE bolt had been over tightened at some point?
Here is the area where I took the photo of the gelcoat pores. The photo is bottom up. This condition is present on the gunwale more or less all around.
So I did not cause these pores either?
My Wisconsin-bred neighbor, says, "You're a Yankee Redneck"! (Though I grew up in HawaiiLight and Variable, I have to say, we think alike when it comes to finding a way to make it work. We call that red-necking-it down here.
The only Sunfish I've owned that would provide that answer was sold ($800) within days of my purchase ($150).There is a slight curvature to the plate that seems to match well to the keel? This is correct or should it be flat? Maybe the CARRIAGE bolt had been over tightened at some point?
I think the round rubber thing is a cushion to go between a main sheet cleat of this type and the deck. Given the age of this boat, I think the cleat actually had an offset cam in it to snub the sheet, but I cannot find a pic of that style cleat.
That is it! My money is on that black thing going between the deck and the cleat as a cushion. The three screw holes match with the mounting for this I believe.Is this the cleat?
It has an offset cam, and on a very original Sunfish—the one mentioned above.
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ou say "spar" varnish, but is it "polyurethane" spar varnish?
You'll need fewer coats with polyurethane. Older varnishes (what I use) could account for the "several coats" you'd been previously advised.
Yeah. I know they are not visible (at 60 miles per hour - as I say) but at high magnification they sure look scary and like I burned the holes with clorox. I'd love to squeegee some sealant in there, but I suspect that is not appropriate - too much like painting.Rub some dirt on those gelcoat divots, you won't notice them from a galloping horse.
Gelcoat is brittle.Here is the area where I took the photo of the gelcoat pores. The photo is bottom up. This condition is present on the gunwale more or less all around.
So I did not cause these pores either?
Could the "pores" be an accumulation of damaging gravel hurled from rotary lawn mowers or snow/leaf blowers?
Either spot paint or sometimes we do the entire bottom, 6 cans is usually enough.
Breeze Bender, What's your take on my gelcoat porosity question?’d consider a good washing, wet sanding and waxing rather than repainting.
If you have some PVC adapters, I'd extend a 3-inch pipe into the rear inspection port (at an angle) and adapt your RV fan to it. Inside air needs to circulate, and have an adequate space to exhaust. Might as well install the forward port...Don't most of us install a 6-inch port, forward?
L&VW = Jedi Mind Tricks, be careful...
My take is the same as it was earlier- wash, wet sand, rubbing compound and wax. I enlarged your photo and saw only one tiny spot that I might fill with thickened epoxy or Marine Tex. If you want to paint it take Signal Charlie’s advice- spray Rustoleum gloss white on the bottom and sides.Breeze Bender, What's your take on my gelcoat porosity question?
Didn’t realize you prefer the semi-gloss. You’re right, probably hides tiny pores better, but I like the shine of the gloss.Semi gloss...