It's a filler. Fine sanding and buffing *might* give you a satin finish at best. Don't expect a high gloss that paint or gelcoat can achieve.
Agree with Mxmkr.Can marine tech be polished out or do you have to paint it. Have used it on some areas of my hull and have sand down so now do I buff out or look at gel coat top layer? Thanks
Here is the feedback from the manufacturer. Not really answering my question.
Welcome aboard to the new (Jersey) Larry.Watching your posts with great interest as i have just started a simaliar project.
Thanks for the Feedback, L&VW. Come on folks cast your vote!So what wood for backer blocks? I have on hand: heartwood eastern red cedar, hard white oak, pressure treated pine, composite deck boards.
Please cast your vote among these four for our beach banger project, as it seems to be classified.
Aluminum doesn't take kindly to over-strong forces of "repair". The spars can be expected to take a natural bend in strong winds. Sometimes, an extreme bend!I don’t like the forked-tree or kneel-on methods – that may work for you. I set-up a padded fulcrum at the bend and pressed the pipe ends down to the floor opposite the bend. Then I raised the fulcrum incrementally until the pipe started to bend. I felt like I could creep up on a state of plastic deformation more gradually without going past the point of no return. It is improved, but not perfect. I felt like we started chasing the bend a little, like it is now bent where it was not before. Probably I don’t really understand the mechanics of bending a pipe like that. Is this thing going to work?
Yes, do keep my terminology correct. I did know better to say "carriage bolt." Ha! I've probably made lots of other errors. It has been fun learning the language.I think your "Lag bolt" is a "Carriage bolt".
Signal Charlie, please clarify your statement.Yes is the way.
Rotate? How about a complete end-to-end switch to put the stresses in a different place? I suppose it depends how the spar was bent (during transport or during sailing?) and where it is in relation to the mast and halyard connection.With the bend you have newly created, you may want to rotate the gooseneck and/or end-caps to accommodate your present results.
My son worked at sanding away the side Sunfish sticker. He started with an old piece of 320 grit. It seemed he cut through the outer seal (the part that the shows the weather/aging cracks in the original.) which allowed some acetone to soak in and soften the base material. We found alternating acetone with a very sharp paint scraper worked best, but eventually we chiseled off the “plastic” base material and the sanding seemed more productive, making white dust. I showed up with a piece of used 220 grit and it made a good pile of white dust quickly. Still it seems there is a nice smooth hump where the sticker was and we can still read phantom “Sunfish” on the side. We’ll wait until the Soft Scrub / wet sanding on the hull before evaluating the final state of the sticker removal project. So now he says, “Only one more to go.” We’ll probably tape over and preserve the less noticeable sticker in the cockpit during the repainting.Stickers first. Sand em or Leave em. We usually sand off the side stickers with 220 grit, light pressure. We like to leave the cockpit sticker, tape it off and spray the cockpit with RustOleum - your favorite color - keeping in mind what your color palette is on the hull and most importantly the sail colors you plan to use. We leave the cockpit sticker as tribute to the original boat
What exactly are we trying to achieve by this wet sanding? A shiny smooth surface or deeper mildew stain removal? I'm advised to be careful not to sand too much.I’d consider a good washing, wet sanding and waxing rather than repainting. You’d be surprised what you’ll find with a little elbow grease.
Can you describe the mechanism that keeps the swiveling part from inadvertently turning to the straight orientation and falling out during a sail?This is the OEM rudder pin and keeper chain. It was screwed to the deck on the starboard side of the horizontal hinge plate