And I got bow handles from sailcraftri...It's like Oprah, You get a part, and you get a part, and you get a part...
Probably why we don't see 8-inch inspection ports installed there!Ok, Made some progress this weekend. I felt like the forward inspection port weakened the deck there where the coaming may be prone to flexing/popping off. Now that the keel damage is fixed in that area, I can install the foam. But I needed one of my crew to shoot the "Great-Stuff" foam, while I direct the tubing extension to all the places needed to glue the blocks in place. So that will be another day. I'm planning to squirt this high quality junk in the areas where the original expanding foam pulled away from the fiber glass. With these gaps, there is not the original support on the deck in particular.
So I think we can get this done this week. I just have to stay on the sand/paint cycles and get it done. Maybe if all goes well we'll get her wet next weekend. We'll need a roof rack fabed-up before that. I don't want to mess with the trailer yet. I can't pull a trailer to Florida anyway since we'll have the camper, so we have to qualify a roof mounting process now. I'm thinking three plywood ribs cut to match the boat profile covered in carpeting or foam and sandwiched around the existing roof rack. Then I'll need to connect them altogether to keep them from flopping over front-to-back. Charlie says the boat should be up-side-down but I don't know if my crew can get the boat flipped over and onto the roof too. No technical problems with that, I hope.
I'd like a way to transport the spars and sail on the roof rack and protect them from road sludge and vibration damage. I want to sew a spar bag from the old sail. Maybe we'll do something simple initially, like wrap it in polyethylene film. Ideas? Oh to find a cheap piece of 8" pipe, 14' long.
Sorry no photos this time.
Thanks guys. We never removed the goose neck, so it's been on backwards a long while. I did think something odd about the set-up but I could not place it and I can't say your tip would answer my concerns. We'll get it right.
I was also perplexed about the dagger board. If it is up, the boom can't swing. If it is down we run aground, I guess with experience the boom should not be swinging unexpectedly over the dagger board. Correct. Going upwind the board should be all the way down anyway. Going downwind, you need to be sure to lower the board some before you gybe or over you go!! If you need to go upwind and you are running aground, you probably need to find a place with deeper water to sail.
I thought it neat that the rudder flops over to the side and lays flat when you lift it up. That was convenient.
I was a little disappointed that the traveler was so restrictive of the tiller swing. Maybe it moves far enough, but it seems the wire rope will do a number on the spar varnish of the tiller. Do I have that wrong somehow? No. The tiller doesn't need to swing any more than the bridle allows. Lots of people wrap duct tape, plastic, etc. around the tiller to prevent this issue. Bridles from the factory had a plastic coating to minimize the problem, but wrapping the till is still very common.
My sailing buddy who was coaching from the beach told me to "get down" like the boom was going to hit me in the head. I obeyed but had to sit in a puddle that way. I don't think that's the normal way, Normal position is to sit on the deck as far forward in the cockpit as possible, using the tiller extension to steer. But sitting in the cockpit with the tiller over the shoulder is a very comfortable way to enjoy a light air day.
When we stowed the sail we pulled it out horizontally from the spars, then folded it a few times, finally rolling it around the spars. I was concerned about folding the window. It's OK? I know it shipped from Intensity that way, all folded up. You should try not to fold the window. Rolling the sail is best anyway to minimize wrinkles.
I'm sure I'll have more trouble and questions when the wind picks up and things start happening.
I'll work on it post-FL....pinpoint that mast step leak and seal it up with a dab of thickened epoxy...