Of my three [second-hand] Sunfish, none has stood the test of time. If they weren't already leaking, they have since broken the outer shell that makes them draw water out while sailing. The skipper (and passengers) must be very sensitive to its location—especially when stepping into the Sunfish on lawn, narrow ramp or dock. You'll notice the O-ring design leaves a gap between hull and bailer body. I suspect the original O-ring design was to permit some compliance against shocks and bumps, as the rubber acts like a "stand-off", while still working as an effective drain."...how do the plastic ones hold up...?" Anyone have any comments on them? Thanks again for all the help so far. Regards
Use the o ring in the ball assembly. Also, LVW is correct if you have a 150 lb person stand on the bailer it will probably crack, so please avoid doing that!O-rings ok on the ball assembly? Just run a bead around the edge of the bailer housing in the bottom of the boat?
When looking at a used Sunfish to buy, a bailer with cracks started should be noted. (Straight-out, there's $45 to be saved on theThe plastic bailers as beldar said are a huge improvement and they are durable. When you are out sailing in strong winds and big waves that are filling the cockpit it is nice to have a bailer that works at getting rid of the water. The old metal ones were ok but not great. If there is any wind I usually sail with my plastic bailer open all the time as it seals so well.
Good observation. Would class legal racing rules specifically permit both outer o-ring and sealing of the edges?Class legal racing requires the outer o-ring to be used. Recreation sailing who cares. But I have had no issues using the o-ring, no leaks.
I've been racing Sunfish since they were made of wood, and have sailed in numerous North American championships even in this decade despite my advanced years. I can assure you that class legal racing does not require the O ring to be used. For reasons I cannot figure out, perhaps as my brain has lost ago faded, the o-ring is required at the Worlds, at least when new boats are provided by the organizers. My aging brain thinks that may be because they don't want silicone used on the new boats, which are resold after the event.Class legal racing requires the outer o-ring to be used. Recreation sailing who cares. But I have had no issues using the o-ring, no leaks.
Thanks for the tip.I purchased this from sunfish direct to repair my '69 sunfish:
Sunfish, Sunfish Bailer Housing w/Ball, 91029 SUN-91029 $15.00...I just reused the plastic flange nut and rubber stopper and I was Good to Go
A "home deposition machine" is a "3-D Printer"?Now if someone with a home deposition machine could turn out some ABS bailer cap replacements I would not mind a bit!
Sounds like a job for a "3-D Printer"! You could pump 'em out—become a millionaire!I have no idea why adding the plastic flange nut and rubber stopper increases it to $40-$45
But ABS is plastic.Now if someone with a home deposition machine could turn out some ABS bailer cap replacements I would not mind a bit!
Use the gun to install a new Anderson bailer.I ordered a metal bailer plug and they sent me this stupid gun instead! Anyway went the hardware to get a 3/4 pvc cap. No go, De-Persia uses some odd size. Look like a rubber plug is called for. Some guy has been selling a dozen new caps on E-Bay. If I thought they were worth blowing $50 bucks for I'd get one. All you 3-D printer guys, you can make $30 a cap although I'd probably only pay $25 for one.
Fwiw i have one of tbe old Depersia bailers and I personally don't think it works all that great. Its in great condition but you have to be really moving for it to even start to work
For starters, plastic deteriorates over time: one reason you don't see Chevy Corvettes with perfect-mirror paint jobs.What are you guys doing to break these bailers? I've had a plastic bailer for decades , my boats get heavy use, and have never broken one. In salt water environs, the plastic one is a no-brainer due to no corrosion problems. The metal bailer shown in the pic above looks so corroded a drain plug will never fit into it. Time for plastic!
How did you get the old Depersia bailer out? I'm trying to replace mine now and I'd love a good trick and proper tool ideas please.Hi all,
My on going craigslist project is moving forward, now I need to replace the bailer. I picked up a full kit plastic one today and I just wanted some input on it. I think I understand how to get the old metal one off but what I am wondering is when putting the new one on is there any alterations that need to be made? Also is silicone recommend for a improved seal on the hull and deck? Lastly how do the plastic ones hold up? Anyone have any comments on them? Thanks again for all the help so far.
Regards
Looks like you are missing the screw in plug. If you can find a plug, great. If not, better to remove it and replace with a plastic Sunfish bailer. Intensity has them on sale for $35 right now. Sunfish® BailerThis is what I have, I am having second thoughts on replacing it, at least right now. What am I lacking? I think just the plug itself