She sailed with you! My soul is happyToo late!
Ended up using the padeye, no hook no cleat. Tied a small rope to the spring of the daggerboard to the mast. Winds were 14 -17 MPH. The non-motorized launch was not busy and a kayayker offered to hold the boat while I boarded. About 50 feet out from the launch I caught a nice puff and the boat got moving. and all of the efforts into getting the boat and rigging it were 110% worth it! Back home, everything is rinsed off and drying. I did not have a camera or phone on board so you'll have to take my word for itPic is after landing and backing the trailer into the recovery position. Thanks for all of the posts and collected wisdom, I appreciate being here.
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I used 4 bolts with the thickest and biggest diameter fender washers I had laying around (probably and inch in diameter) and haven't had any signs of cracking or other issues in that spot. I used a chainplate from a cal20 (I think) to mount the ratchet and spring on. Just happened to have it laying around. I used the other chainplate as a halyard fairlead when that pulled out, same thing 4 bolts and a backing block so far no issues. And now I know for sure that those won't be the failure points on my boat!The deck bits were mounted with screws.
How thick of a backer is needed to mount a block to the lip? I have 1/4" (6.4mm) FR4/G10 board and I can get aluminum or stainless.
I've got (totally) nylon nuts holding my block and cam-cleat. They're about two inches long, so access/snugging is easier. For a socket or wrench, they've got (guessing) 5/16" ends, but "finger-tight" is tight enough..
*make sure to round off the bottom of any bolts you put through that lip with a file or dremel after you put the nuts and washers on, you'll probably inadvertently bump them with your feet hiking out sooner or later.
Plain block will work fine, definetly better than no block. The ratchet block simply adds friction to the line going out, but not when you're pulling it in; it just takes some of the load off your hand.Thanks. I went back and looked and felt under the lip. The white boat did have holes for something installed above the hook. The back of the clamcleat could have been bolted but featured exposed screw threads under the lip. I have not tried undoing the wood to see what is there for hardware.
So... ratchet block … I am uninitiated in that regard: what it the advantage of having one of those? Is a plain block better than no block at all? Asking as I have a few plain ones, about the right size, from another boat, laying in wait.
I don't have the plastic one, I tried a couple on hand options last week and came up with a piece of black rubber fuel line. The spring is homemade too (want to say it's 1/16" or 1.6mm stainless steel, the joys of having a machine shop with scraps at workDo you have the plastic tube that goes on the vertical bolt on your rudder? If you find your rudder pops out the plastic tube helps that.
It seems you peeled off all the extra junk except the open fairlead aka sheet hook. Good
The eyestrap could be riveted in and be useful as a place to attach the daggerboard retainer line. Many of the AMF boats had an eyestrap just forward of the daggerboard trunck for this purpose. You can drill a 1/4 inch hole into the daggerboard cleat (handle) to tie the other end, many daggerboards came from the manufacturer with this hole already drilled. Your board may have one, probably filled with dirt. Or add and eyestrap and stainless ring to the top of the handle. If you want a daggerboard bungee, buy 10 feet of 1/4 inch bungee and run it all the way to the bow handle and back.
If you're just out messing about, forget about cleats and use you arms and hands like Skipper does. Our boats have the older style AMF swivel cam cleats, she doesn't use them. I do use them.
"I have the gooseneck and halyard more or less in the Signal Charlie 'geezer' configuration (which would be 22" gooseneck to lower boom co-joined end (tack) and 60" halyard to upper boom loose end (head)." Works every time for us!
highly recommend a ratcheting block (and maybe a cam cleat, mounted on the cockpit lip if you really want a cleat).
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Here are the relevant part numbers (shown on a Minifish, same concept applies, and it is actually easier to install on the cockpit lip of a Sunfish):
Where'd you get the cool Great Lakes graphic. Me want one!
"If I open it up just enough to do the upper block, should I plan on remove/dry out area/replace the lower block?"
Most of the time yes. It's going to be interesting to see how you go about doing that.
There are wooden backer blocks inside the hull for the bridle eyestraps also. We check those by gently lifting the stern by the bridle. They usually last a little longer than the rudder releasing mechanism blocks.
Check that… maybe he is still selling clothing?@Weston the Great Lakes sticker was from a clothing brand called Gybe Ho Boatwear, which was created by a guy here in Michigan. The website is no longer around… so maybe he stopped selling stuff?
You have a pre 71 sunfish so having the blocks rot would not be uncommon. I would replace the wood since you have it open i would not worry about open grain and get out on the water. I do wonder how you are going to replace the top block and deck and carry the load from the rudder in big winds. It would be the time to upgrade to the newstyle rudder. You could skip the wood blocks as the load is carried by stern with and internal bacher and external rudder bracket. Your glass work would be easier as you could install a port