What's new

Moving on to other projects...

shorefun

Member
I was looking at that 'practice' hull that I was going to try and fix up for he yacht club.

We had a bunch of rain and I had the hull deck side up and some how a bunch of water got inside. So I was going to open the side drain and that would not open.

The hull has so many issues and it would take so much time and expense. At this point it served its purpose of my initial learning to fix glass. Come spring time I am likely to be moving the other hull to a new home.

I would rather be working on the boats I am keeping and using.

So I have several days of warm enough to glass so I have moved to fixing my sons Opti next. A couple of cracks in the hull that need to be glassed. Some beat up nose area and a crack along the edge of a rudder bracket.

I also want to get started on my 2006 hull. That needs a bunch of sanding and prep for the major hole in the hull.

I also need more room in my garage, anyone need some crappy Model A fenders? A tranny for a 67 Mustang?
 

L&VW

Well-Known Member
Yes. We also had a big storm, and my newest Sunfish project (blue deck) should have needed bailing; however, I found the cockpit was empty of water. :eek: Poking around, I saw a 6-inch crack through the cockpit floor. :( That meant the rainwater had emptied inside the hull. :oops:

Like your Sunfish, the drain plug won't budge. The previous owner had drilled a 3/16-inch hole through the middle of the plug, so I was able to drain the rainwater.

(And I later enlarged the hole to ¼-inch—using a left-hand-twist drill bit—and it still won't turn). :rolleyes:

.
 

danpal

Active Member
I also had a heck of a time opening the side drain plug. I tried multiple really large screw drivers that basically tore up the slot in the plug but I found the perfect tool that opened it easily! I had it in my toolkit all this time but never thought to use it.

It's a painting multi-tool. It gives you the exact amount of leverage you need to open the plug without damaging it. The flat screwdriver part of the tool near the edge fits just right.

1604671477543.png
 

signal charlie

Well-Known Member
Staff member
There is a vent hole in the forward cockpit bulkhead, if rain water fills the cockpit then water can leak in there. It can also get in through the mast step if there is a damaged spot. Pour water in the mast step and see if it disappears, of course the hull would need to be mostly empty of water for that.

Other less like areas for water to come in are split seams, any of the other designed holes on the deck where fasteners go through and some boats have leaks through where the upper flange of the cockpit attaches to the underside of the hull.

Do you know what year the boat is? (HIN on upper right transom or metal Serial No plate on deck?
 

shorefun

Member
The hull is from 1980.

When I look up in the hull from an existing port cut the mast tube may be thin in places judging by the light coming through plus looking down the hole it seems abused.

The hull looks like it is likely in better condition then some I have seen people have restored.

I have a ton of work to do on 4 other hulls. I am working on fixing up an opti hull for my youngest. I was going to do a bunch of stuff and make it look pretty. But since I do not have inside garage space and limit temp windows I am just going to do the hull integrity stuff and make it look white all around. I think I might have to relocate all the mast hardware on the opposite side because screw holes opened up and previous fixes make the sail not sit in the right places.

I have my 2006 with the gaping hole in the side that I have previously posted about.

I have my sons 1988 which has a 2" x 2" area on the bow point that is showing the last layer of glass. I also suspect it has other leak points. I have it on its side and was surprised to find it leaking constantly. I think that is water that got in and is trickling thru gaps in the foam glue down. I will need to take care the the obvious damage where it will leak air the do a pressure test.

Then I have the 1996 hull. That is the one with the broken screw. It has a 1/2" point impact hole on the deck and some likely minor bottom issues that need minor glasswork. That one has silicon sealer around the combing, the drain ports and rudder bracket. That hull and rigging has been abused and used on the beach judging by all the sand everywhere. But for $300 with the seitech cart I figure I could work with it.

Oh and they all need a full compound and waxing.

I have my hands full. I will see where I am in the spring, but it is likely I will be selling the 1980 hull cheap
 
Top