3048 mm is close enough to solve this one by simply moving the bolt to the forward hole. But it's strange that the mast step looks like it has been moved aft from an original position.I measured the mast step a while ago but I guess I forgot to put the measurements in here. From the Aft measurement point to the back of the mast is 10 feet almost exactly.
The correct length is the maximum length, or at least reasonably close to it... I can't give you a number, but the method of measurement is in class rule C9.2(a)(4) on page 12 of the class rules. The diagram describes it better than any words.What is the correct length of the forestay wire? I think i'll end up just adding some line in to lengthen instead of buying a longer wire.
1) There's no guarantee whatsoever that the former owners had any idea how to tune the boat, and 2) The whole answer to "what is the right shroud setting?" is worth its own thread. I have toyed with the idea of writing a post/thread/resource with the title "Basic 470 tuning for newbies" so one wouldn't have to repeat the same things over and over again... But the short answer is: you'll find out when you start tuning. You already have the mast step figured out, and a working jib halyard tensioning system. Now you need a long tape measure (ten metres or so) to get the rake right. Ideally you also need a tension meter for the luff wire, but you likely have to make compromises about that (more on that later) so it's not a must. If you can borrow one it's a plus.Do you think my stays have been in the right place? I just put them in the spot that looked most worn.
Yes - like in the link in my previous postIs the right forestay length when the widest part of the mast is at the very back of the mast gate?
It's because you want the shrouds to be as loose as possible when adjusting them.Why does this matter if the forestay doesn't have any tension on it when the jib is up?
Can't say for sure anymore but I assume with a swiveling shackle to an eyestrap on the car + an optional standup spring. Having problems with that?How were the jib ratchets originally attached to the cars on older boats like mine?
We sailed into a lull and I went flying around the bow. Very fun!
Teal-ish blue. I actually remember the boat from many, many years ago when it was located some 100 km from here... it’s clearly been updated from its mid-70s configuration in some smart-looking ways. I’ll try to get some pictures once I meet the owner.What color is the roga 470?
I made all new rigging for my laser. Any pro laser tips?
...load bearing? Not by just looking. But as you've seen, trial by fire may work. Dyneema puffs up and becomes "cauliflower" looking when heated with a lighter flame, while basically nothing happens to aramids like the Technora in your lines. Practically all other common marine rope fibres melt. So if the cover melts, then it's most likely that the core is the load-bearing part. Ropes with a load-bearing but not high-tech cover include anti-kink sheets like Rooster Polilite.Is there a way to tell by looking at a line if the core or shell is
That's a pretty creative interpretation... and one that definitely is not the intention of the ruleI looked at the rules and they say for splices that you can have them at load bearing attachment points. Im just gonna say that the cleatis load barring where the line attaches to the cleat.
It's rule 3.a.vi that says which types of items may be attached and how. The vang cleating fitting isn't included.I’ll have to find the part about the distinction of builder supplied parts.
I don't think there's any need to. It's the Radial masts that have been prone to bend permanently or break. The Standard/4.7 section has a thicker wall.Why not give all the rigs the carbon bottom?
Hi, I love the red! My 1976 Vanguard 470 sail number 1358 has a weird pumpkin orange gel coat finish but other than that the restoration is coming along. Question: my boom appears to be missing the mainsail tack attachment point. Anyway you could send me a photo of that area? Also a photo of your main sheet routing? Mine is the same. Will send photos later of my project.Was red a common color for early hulls? I’ve got a red 1974 in upstate as well, frankly I’m surprised there’s two of the same vintage in the same area. Have fun! View attachment 35749
You don't need one; just tie the tack to the mast with a length of thin line. I haven't looked at this specifically, but I believe it's how it's done on all top boats today.my boom appears to be missing the mainsail tack attachment point.