JC Boom Sleeve - Production Prototype pics

#2
Hi Tracy, the new Clew Tie Down looks great!
3 questions I have:
- How to prevent wearing (abrasion of the surface) at the boom?

- How in future is planned, to place the trimm-stickers ("15 cm"-mark, "20 cm"-mark etc. ...) for the outhaul in that way, that they not have to be replaced aft a while the new Clew Tie Down went over them? Using a permanent-marker-pen (f.e. white for the black anodized booms and blue, black or another color of a permanent-marker-pen for the silver anodized boom)

- Isn't it better, to have the gromment inside of the new Clew Tie Down (I mean: using a shackle instead of the hook)

Ciao
Ludwig
 

gouvernail

Active Member
#3
it would work better if the outhaul line were rigged slightly differently.

The line in the photo is led such that the moving part on the block is against the boom and it can bind.

You can rig the line going through the pulley so it runs in the opposite direction.
The dead end can be tied as a bowline that goes around the boom twice and uses the back end of the blue eye to keep it from sliding toward the gooseneck.
Then the line goes up through the pulley and then back to the inside of the blue eye.

The described rig
lessens binding inside the eye
lowers the load on the eye by 1/3
looks really cool
 

Merrily

Administrator
#4
gouvernail said:
i
You can rig the line going through the pulley so it runs in the opposite direction.
The dead end can be tied as a bowline that goes around the boom twice and uses the back end of the blue eye to keep it from sliding toward the gooseneck.
Then the line goes up through the pulley and then back to the inside of the blue eye.
So you are saying to tie a bowline to the aft end of the eye and wrap the line around the end of the boom twice? Then run the line from the bottom up through the block on the new outhaul sleeve and on through the eye?
 
R

Ross B

Guest
#5
it looks perfets, but depending on hat side you rig the hook, you have to have the outhaul line on the opposite side so the hook and line dont interfear, and i think all will be well

i cant wait to get mine!:D
 

Merrily

Administrator
#6
salsa 88082 said:
it looks perfets, but depending on hat side you rig the hook, you have to have the outhaul line on the opposite side so the hook and line dont interfear, and i think all will be well

i cant wait to get mine!:D
Actually the line goes on the block which is in the center behind the hook, so there is no worry there.
 

gouvernail

Active Member
#7
MY suggesation for tying the line is similar to what is shown in the photo. I am not certain you can use the lower loop to help hold the outhaul....nothing in the rules says you can...
But you may use the plastic fairlead to hold the oiuthaul line. So instead of tying the loop as shown, I think you should tie it so it "figure eights" around the boom. Ust the fairlead on top to stop the line and dip it under the boom and back to the top.
http://schrothfiberglass.com/images/clew_shackle.jpg
 

Attachments

Thread starter #8
Sorry for not getting to this sooner! I kept getting distracted...
LooserLu said:
Hi Tracy, the new Clew Tie Down looks great!
3 questions I have:
- How to prevent wearing (abrasion of the surface) at the boom?
This has not so far been a problem in my experience. The fitting is sliding along the boom but not really scraping. Maybe over the long term with lots of usage it will scrape through the anodizing, I suppose we will see...

LooserLu said:
- How in future is planned, to place the trimm-stickers ("15 cm"-mark, "20 cm"-mark etc. ...) for the outhaul in that way, that they not have to be replaced aft a while the new Clew Tie Down went over them? Using a permanent-marker-pen (f.e. white for the black anodized booms and blue, black or another color of a permanent-marker-pen for the silver anodized boom)
I guess since I never use them I don't have an answer. But it sounds to me like using a marker will work.

LooserLu said:
- Isn't it better, to have the gromment inside of the new Clew Tie Down (I mean: using a shackle instead of the hook)
The point of the hook is to provide a simple quick release. I doubt you can really get the clew closer to the boom with any sort of hook, shackle, etc. since the cloth of the sail is already hitting the boom. You can, of course, use a tie down line or a clew strap to get it a bit closer since then you can strap the grommet right down on the boom. I've not yet had any indication that at my level of sailing I can detect any performance difference...
 
Thread starter #9
gouvernail said:
it would work better if the outhaul line were rigged slightly differently.

The line in the photo is led such that the moving part on the block is against the boom and it can bind.

You can rig the line going through the pulley so it runs in the opposite direction.
The dead end can be tied as a bowline that goes around the boom twice and uses the back end of the blue eye to keep it from sliding toward the gooseneck.
Then the line goes up through the pulley and then back to the inside of the blue eye.

The described rig
lessens binding inside the eye
lowers the load on the eye by 1/3
looks really cool
As you point out, the real problem is the line rubbing on itself in the eye at the end of the boom. Old habits die hard I guess, I'm trained to dead-end the line at that eye, hence you avoid most of the friction of the line rubbing on itself there by running it the way it is shown. I don't really notice any friction from that particular type of line rubbing on the boom...

I should try to remember to try it the way you have described if that helps...
 
#10
The bowline around the boom system was used by a bunch of sailors at some bigshot regatta a few years ago. Since my skill level seems stagnant or probably worse than that, I decided to copy the hotshots.
That was at least 10 years ago. Recently I have not noticed anybody with the bowline around the boom system except me.
maybe the system is dumb??

But I don't know why and I think it is cool looking so I do it.
 
Thread starter #12
crazyuncle said:
How does the shockcord tie on to the sleeve? Can't see from your pictures.
Good question, I've not thought about it. I don't use a shock cord, it not really being necessary, IMHO, in anything but the lightest winds and... well... that's not an issue where I sail normally.

But... maybe hook into the clew grommet?
 

Merrily

Administrator
#14
Sarah B said:
I don't use the harken hook , but the holt one, how will that work with the slider? .
I believe that the JC Boom Sleeve is a complete unit as shown, including hook and block.

Also, I added shockcord to the trial boom sleeve that SFBayLaser gave me. There's plenty of light air at my club. I tried the sleeve without a shockcord and it didn't return easily in light air. I had to use 3/16 inch and was just able to fit it through and tie it to the pin that holds the hook. It worked well then.
 
Thread starter #17
salsa 88082 said:
so Tracy, when will it be available to the rest of us? i would really like to try one out!
Well, if you are talking about the production version then first it must be approved by the membership. Voting closes July 31, if you haven't yet voted (and are a Class Member) then go to http://www.laserinternational.org/rules2006.htm and caste your vote now!

If approved then I would imagine you could buy one in time for Christmas, I'd think.

If you want to try one out, I'll be at the US Nationals and will bring it with me. Obviously, it can't be used during racing but if people want to do test sails after the day's racing then it could be arranged.
 
Thread starter #18
stinky said:
I might have missed it but is there a projected all up cost of the sleeve?
I don't know what the final retail price will be. I have **HEARD** (and I don't have anything to do with pricing so if it is different in the end don't blame me!) that it MIGHT be less than $40, with hook and block.

By the way, I'm told that the hook is significantly different from the currently marketed Harken hook, though I don't have one to compare with.
 
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