Hiking Strap, just Quick Question

dbob3d

New Member
Hello,

Just putting on a hiking strap for my 1974 Sunfish that has never had one before. I read the article in the FAQ section, and it said I didn't need a backing plate for the rear connection underneath the storage compartment; all I need is to put some 5200 on the screws.

This seems like a really weak connection...wouldn't it pop out when I started hiking, or is 5200 strong enough to hold it. I do plan on backing the front with two metal and one wood layer.

Let me know how this works.

Thanks.
 
How much do you weigh and how hard do you hike? I don't blame you at all for not trusting a single padeye in the middle, particularly since you have to use screws vice bolts/nuts/washers in that location.

Check out my hiking strap post:
http://www.sunfishforum.com/showthread.php?t=33570&page=2

If you do anything like this, be very careful when drilling the holes. Measure twice and drill once. Carefully align the drill.
 
I only weigh 140lbs., but have no problem hiking hard. I enjoy sailing in winds gusting over 20mph...and some nice sized waves.
 
I just went through the same thing... I just couldn't trust anything without a backer. It IS possible to install the aft connections in the same manner as the fore, with a thin backing plate. You can see in the one pic that the fasteners and plate clear the storage compartment easily. Of course, this method requires a port just aft of the cockpit...

Be careful drilling, use a sharp bit and carefully think out the size of all your fasteners. I recommend your LOCAL hardware store for stainless fasteners, Home Depot and Lowe's are woefully inadequate for stainless stuff. I used 1/8" aluminum, very strong, easy to drill. I still used 5200 everywhere to seal the holes. My hardware is from McMaster-Carr, they are stainless steel (of course) "rope guides." I believe I used 9/16", but something smaller would also work.

I am really happy with my results...I have total confidence when hiking and the hardware looks really sharp.
 

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Nicely done captainpete.

But you can also mount the strap a bit higher so that the screws protrude into the storage area. That way you can back them without cutting a big hole in the hull. When you go this route, you do have to be careful about drilling the holes just right....
 
Nicely done captainpete.

But you can also mount the strap a bit higher so that the screws protrude into the storage area. That way you can back them without cutting a big hole in the hull. When you go this route, you do have to be careful about drilling the holes just right....
The Layline instructions I got with a strap I bought through them recommended this method. They also suggested using an eyestrap as the backing on the cubby side of the lip. I followed that advice and found the eyestrap quite handy for clipping a small dry bag to.

The top drawing in Diagram 1 of the FAQ shows this. I believe Diagram 2 is the same Layline instruction I got with my strap.

.
 
I am going to change my method of mounting the aft end of the hiking strap based on these ideas--many thanks.

I like the through the lip method with extra eye-straps on the back suggestion which avoids the access port on deck.

The only thing I don't like about this is the fact that the nuts are not flush with the lip. So the answer is to make a non-symmetrical washer--I have some spare laminated glass that will work. A few minutes with a grinder should give me the shape I want.

For old style, non-cubby Sunfishes, I still like the access port in the aft end of the cockpit for access to the backing material.
 
I am going to change my method of mounting the aft end of the hiking strap based on these ideas--many thanks.

For old style, non-cubby Sunfishes, I still like the access port in the aft end of the cockpit for access to the backing material.

I'll tell you what, drilling those holes thru the lip half scared me to death. I had the boat flipped over, on sawhorses fore and aft, at just the right height so that I could clearly and easily work while sitting in a chair. The top of my head was nearly touching the cockpit floor, giving me the best possible view of the angles involved. A LOT of time was spent carefully marking out exacly where the drill needed to go and at what angle to penetrate the middle of the backside of the lip. I wanted the bolts to penetrate at an angle parallel to the bottom deck of the aft storage compartment. It was a task that required great patience. 99% preparation and 1% drilling. A total success but a nail-biter. Used plenty of 4200 on both sides to ensure a good seal.

Thinking back on it, I wonder if it would have been easier to drill the backside holes FROM the backside instead of straight thru from the front side like I did.

Good luck sir. A simple old cockpit, with an inspection port, would have been far easier job.
 
As I wrote earlier, you do have to be careful drilling those holes, but on the other hand, it's not brain surgery either.

:)

I did use this method about ten years ago on my 1979 Sunfish. Got the strap installation kit from WindLine and followed the instructions. Unfortunately, Dan F (WindLine) changed his business model in the meantime, and doesn't offer those kits anymore.
 
I just did this on my old-style boat - with the inspection port in the back of the cockpit. Easier (I guess) with the old-style, but it doesn't stop me from wishing my boat was 30 years younger!!!!

I didn't use a backing plate, but used the really big fender washers, 3M 4200 sealant, and all stainless bolts and nylon locknuts.

cheers,
tag
 

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With my 1979 hull I used the two forward cockpit accesses ports for mounting the front hiking strap hardware backed with 1/2 inch polyethylene cutting board and for the aft I mounted through the lip of storage compartment with caulking to seal fasteners and bed hardware.
One thing that I would change with my set up would be mounting the forward hardware as low as possible to the cockpit floor as strap rises up to lip in the aft and I prefer a tight hiking strap close to cockpit floor.
><>Don<><
 

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