Or you can do what the factory repair guys did, split the hull, pull out old expanding foam, dry out the blocks and reinstall: http://smallboatrestoration.blogspot.com/2013/08/merci-hull-repair.html
I'd remove the metal plate and patch the hull, or see if new bailer will fit in hole. Then keep trying to work old drain loose.
You'll need to sand old paint smooth, but not necessarily remove all of it. Then prime and repaint
Thank you @sailcraftri, very useful info. What do the Phantom bailers look like ?
@signal charlie, I plan to paint it, as the current paint comes off and stains everything.
View attachment 16491 View attachment 16492 View attachment 16493 Thank you everybody for the great info and advice !
Will polyurethane foam from a can do?
You should use a marine grade foam. I use the 2 part expanding floatation foam from Fibreglast: http://www.fibreglast.com/product/2_Lb_Polyurethane_Mix_and_Pour_Foam_24_25/Foam
It also will secure the blocks
The inside and foam blocks now feel dry to the touch.
You can press on the foam block and expanding foam with a flat blade (like a putty knife) and see if water oozes out. If you can push it down and 1/4 inch or so and no water comes out then it is getting pretty dry.
I haven't been able to get an accurate weight of the boat, that will have to wait for now, I'll use a bathroom scale.
Your boat has great fiberglass mat, it will should weigh 139-145ish.
Any advice, comments, are greatly appreciated. I have no previous experience, this is my first boat.
Ah, a couple more questions.
.....The deckplate is from Beckson, and it specifically calls for silicone caulking or silicone sealant for attaching it. Is there any specific product in the market that anyone could recommend ?
Any marine grade SEALANT will do, we like 3M clear marine grade sealant. Avoid buying marine ADHESIVE (like 3M 5200) as it is very hard to remove.
Here is a link to our Chandlery: http://astore.amazon.com/smalboatrest-20/detail/B000H8W9V8
By the way, the deckplate in the back of the deck is missing its gasket (o-ring ?), maybe that's the source of the leak. Since I don't know the make, I probably won't be able to get a gasket, so I might need to replace the whole deckplate ... (?)
I also will need to replace the bailer. Which one should I get, the one with the 13/16" threaded insert, or the one with the 5/16" insert? (This is a 1968 Alcort Sunfish).
Call the parts dealer and ask them, or someone here will know, I am trying to picture which ones I used recently. I know I have trimmed the bigger ones to fit.
Kent
http://astore.amazon.com/smalboatrest-20/detail/B000H8W9V8
IJust check to be sure you have polyester based resin.
Epoxy resin forms a stronger bond than polyester resin. For this repair it probably doesn't make much difference, but I always err on the side of strength and use epoxy resin (unfortunately epoxy does cost more.)
I (L&VW) have a similar problem (winter wind damage—a two-inch break across the keel).
A friend who is very knowledgeable with epoxy resin advises to grind the fiberglass down to paper-thin about 6-inches all around. (using a mask designed for such "operations".) Then, using West® Epoxy, build up layers. In your case, you can get by with making it a bit "fatter" than necessary. The fiberglass is made in different thicknesses, so you may want the thinnest kind. Oh wait, I just found the instructions he gave me:
WEAR A GOOD RESPIRATOR, not just a dust mask FOR ALL GRINDING AND SANDING OPERATIONS!!!! Wear nitrile gloves to keep the epoxy off your skin. Clean hands with vinegar as it is kinder to your system than alcohol.
Grind away the fiberglass at least 4 inches on either side of the repair would be better so that the glass is paper thin at the crack and tapers evenly to the original thickness at the outer perimeter of the ground area. Cut a piece of fiberglass to cover the ground area. Cut additional pieces of glass each successively smaller than the previous one. The number of layers and amount each one decreases in size will depend on the weight of cloth (use cloth or biaxial not mat or woven roven) used. Orient the fibers so that they cross the crack at 45 degrees so as both the warp and fill contribute to the strength of the repair.
It is for this reason that biaxial tape is best for this type of repair as there is no crimp to the fibers. Clean the ground area with alcohol, not rubbing alcohol as it has glycerin. Apply mixed epoxy to the ground area and lay down the fiberglass using the largest piece first and working to the smallest piece. Make sure each layer is completely saturated before applying the next.
If you do not complete the lamination in one go you will have to wash the area with soap and water sand and alcohol wipe before continuing. Mix in a coloring agent for the last 2 layers.
Sand smooth and paint and go sailing.
Yes, epoxy has gotten expensive, but it won't be long before you have the repair down pat, and want to fix everything around you!
Sorry for the lack of clarity, this reference was to the Bondo brand kit as I am unsure if all of their automotive products are cross compatible for marine use. My nearest West Marine is an hour away and simply wanted to point out options.Why do you say that? Epoxy resin forms a stronger bond than polyester resin