I have the mast up and the rudder on and flipped up. I can see them in the rear view mirror and line them up to back staight.
If you do put a port in you might want to position it so if you want to upgrade the rudder later so it would work for that also. That looks like a pre 71 boat if the stripes are original. If you uncover the drain and the mounting is still there the plug was attached by a chain. There are several people on the forums who can supply parts. Looks like it was nice sailing. When a puff comes like that ease the sail, hike hard and trim the sail back in. The ratchet block is great for doing that.
Thanks, I will try to find it. I have my doubts I can find it.That's awesome, congratulations on the sail!
STOP! Be very careful with that bridle eyestrap. Leave the one screw in and probe around the other hole with a paper clip to see if there are any remnants of a wooden backer block in there. If there is you may be able to go one screw size bigger, and put toothpicks in the hole with waterproof glue. Or fill the reamed out hole with thickened epoxy and set the screw into that when it dries. If the backer block is gone then you'll need to put in the inspection port or split the seam to replace the blocks. If you put in a port you'll need to chisel away part of the internal foam blocks to get to the wooden blocks, the little bit you take out will not be enough to cause concern.
For the halyard we simply wrap the spar 3 times and tie 2 half hitches. Hasn't come loose yet, easy to tie. Recommended hitch is the clove hitch, which I can't remember how to tie
We enjoy swivel cam cleats on all of our boats but we do not race.
Use you mirrors to help out while backing. If you can see your trailer in either mirror, it is starting to get crooked.
I am going to go those today! Thanks!These things will change you life: trailer balls
Before I had the backup camera, I used these to back up to the trailer.
And I put the on the trailer before I backed the empty trailer down the ramp.
He should be able to put his toes under the opposite side of the cockpit. I would wear sneakers or boots. Works well, old sunfish have really strong cockpit lips, we all did this before hiking straps were legal.
No luck on having the wood backer block. So I guess I will be putting in the inspection port right in front of the rudder attachment and working my way to the hole. What kind and size wood should I use?That's awesome, congratulations on the sail!
STOP! Be very careful with that bridle eyestrap. Leave the one screw in and probe around the other hole with a paper clip to see if there are any remnants of a wooden backer block in there. If there is you may be able to go one screw size bigger, and put toothpicks in the hole with waterproof glue. Or fill the reamed out hole with thickened epoxy and set the screw into that when it dries. If the backer block is gone then you'll need to put in the inspection port or split the seam to replace the blocks. If you put in a port you'll need to chisel away part of the internal foam blocks to get to the wooden blocks, the little bit you take out will not be enough to cause concern.
Swivel cleat is in now.
Will do, all the sunfishes he learned on had a swivel cleat so it feels natural for him now.Have your son be careful with the swivel cleat the first few times out. Even on a little boat like the Sunfish, once the boat starts tipping, if the sheet is cleated it can be hard to uncleat.
Back when I was designing the Stars and Stripes catamaran, I had the idea of using a swivel cleat. Before installing it on S and S, I tried it out on a Hobie Cat. Here is a shot from a helicopter of me unable to get the sheet uncleated! I had the remaining negatives destroyed, but suffice it to say the end result wasn’t pretty. Then and there I decided no swivel cleat for Stars and Stripes!View attachment 30330