Double Decker Trailer

[signal charlie]

My trailer has a second deck now, thanks to some bolt on trailer guides and aluminum cross beams. It can be adjusted or removed as needed, I like the guide bracket that has two bolts. Upper deck boat will ride inverted, so both camps will be able to find their happy place with this setup

Next I need suggestions for crossbeam cushioning material?

Fair trailering,
Kent

 

[Lafayette Mike]

My double decker Seitech trailer, purchased used, basically uses styrofoam noodles (floaties), covered with a Velcro attached canvas cover and are called rack pads.

They look like this. http://www.rightontrailer.com/multi-sport-rack-pads/

 

[signal charlie]

Mike,

Great idea, I have noodles and duct tape!

I like that mutisport trailer too, basically a roof rack attached to a trailer.

kb

 

[tag]

Another option would be to cut some cradles out of 2x lumber that are cut to match the hull profile and add padding to them. The u-bolts you have could then bolt this cradle beam to the vertical member.

That being said, the noodles are probably your best bet based on what you already have.

BTW, where did you get the kit/supplies to do that? Is there any beam or diagonal bracing going front-to-back?

I've been planning to make a more legit double-stack trailer to haul my 'Fish, but was going to use 2x lumber, with the upper rack removable. I planned to have a diagonal bracing member, though, as I'm afraid the weight of the upper Sunfish would rack the whole system forward if I had to make a quick stop and slammed on the brakes.

 

[signal charlie]

Hi tag

cradle idea is great, that will probably v2.0

The trailer guy sells a trailer guide kit, heavy duty galvanized bracket, post and 2 inch PVC roller for $130. And you buy 2. Then add crossbeams and hardware, another 50. So it's close to $300 bucks, but it went together in minutes and was exactly what I wanted.

As for a brace, these trailer guides are built for big power boat trailers, boats weighing ##### bump into them. I'm no engineer, but with one boat, loaded low, I don't envision an issue. If a third boat was loaded higher, hmmm. But a brace would be a good idea, how about a piece of line run from back of trailer up to forward crossbeam on each side?

Looking forward to trying it out

KB

 

[tag]

how about a piece of line run from back of trailer up to forward crossbeam on each side?

That would certainly help as opposed to nothing. I don't have a good feel for it honestly - it might be total overkill.

But as a structural engineer by day, that immediately jumps out at me. Then again, it's usually in my best interest to over-engineer things and ensure stability.

Tag

 

[signal charlie]

Tag,

yep, I understand. The guides are galvanized steel tubing. They also sold aluminum, which was pretty to look at, but Eddie, the owner, looked at my set up and told me aluminum was too soft, and e wouldn't let me buy them. He was out of steel guide arms so he sent me to another trailer store that had the steel. He also gave me a thumbs up on the idea, said he liked what I came up with.

They load 6 canoes on this rig, more than a Sunfish hull: http://www.boatrailer.com/canoe.htm

Eddie operates Eddie English trailers, they build everything on site. And they treated me like a King gathering up the parts, a spare tire and a hub. Some of the trailers they were working on, I think the lug nuts were worth more than my entire trailer! Speaking of hubs, I was trying to buy a spare set of bearings to have on hand if going cross country. Eddie suggested buying a hub already built up with bearings. When it dawned on me that all you had to do if a bearing gave out on the road was pull one cotter pin and take a castellated nut off, I was sold. I'll keep the hub mounted on my spare, ready for worst case

I made it home with a 30 pound kayak, the trailer is due for more operational testing! I

Kent

 

[signal charlie]

If someone hits me, there going to have a lot of splainin to do...

 

[RomanSailer]

Great idea, too bad I dint think of it, or see this two weeks ago when I bought an aluminum frame from a finn sailer. But all said, cost was close to your setup. I would definitely put on diagonals for any but the shortest hauls. (murphy lives!) mine has SS shroud lines in place, but even temporary low stretch yacht line would work. Enjoy.

 

[Sailkb]

Here's my setup. I used rope to stabalize front to back as a temporary solution at the time. But it proved to be so stable, I never changed it. The day I took this pic I had just traveled 30 miles at 65 mph. One caution using rope; you not only need the criss-cross between the cross members but also tie down to the front and rear of the trailer. That is actually what stabalized the whole thing. That part is kinda hard to see in the pic.

 

[tag]

Very nice, Sailkb. That is more or less my intention as well, with the shaped cradles to support the Sunfish.

 

[Sailkb]

Very nice, Sailkb. That is more or less my intention as well, with the shaped cradles to support the Sunfish.

BTW...... I later installed hooks on the outside of the brackets to hold the sail/spars. I got home and found a few scratches on the deck.

 

[signal charlie]

I checked switch my trailer builder again, he says no problem with one boat, and it held up for 1156 miles! Sme qick slow downs but no foot stompers. I'll bet there is a speed where any rig will move forward.


It was interesting to see a lot of keel boats going down the road on trailers, the hull was higher than the tow vehicle. I can't imaging pulling a boat with a Suburban and all you see in your rear view mirror is the keel