Updating a 1976 Sunfish for recreational use. I want to add a rotating block and cleat for the mainsheet, attaching to the deck in front of the cockpit. Because I don't have access to the deck from below, I'm unsure how to attach. Inspection plate to gain access below, or is there something I can do from above? Thank you.
Attaching deck hardware
- Thread starter Jbemi
- Start date
mixmkr
Well-Known Member
L&VW
Well-Known Member
Unless it's a Mini-Sunfish or a Porpoise II, the rotating block and cleat can be installed from above.
This photo was taken when my ex-racer was purchased six years ago. During a subsequent NH-winter's storage, a steel cable securing the Sunfish transom parted ways, and strong winter winds made the spider-cracking far worse.
What I'd do, is to reinforce the exposed area underneath. Not because there's too much force pulling upwards, but because of the "spider-cracking" damage that can happen if stressed while up-side down. The spider-cracking, once started, can continue around the cockpit—as it has.
Epoxy and several layers of fiberglass-cloth tape would be the answer. Then—drill-away! 
.
This photo was taken when my ex-racer was purchased six years ago. During a subsequent NH-winter's storage, a steel cable securing the Sunfish transom parted ways, and strong winter winds made the spider-cracking far worse.
What I'd do, is to reinforce the exposed area underneath. Not because there's too much force pulling upwards, but because of the "spider-cracking" damage that can happen if stressed while up-side down. The spider-cracking, once started, can continue around the cockpit—as it has.
Epoxy and several layers of fiberglass-cloth tape would be the answer. Then—drill-away! .
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mixmkr
Well-Known Member
or a nice aluminum backing plate, cut to fit.... slobbered in with some epoxy putty!
L&VW
Well-Known Member
You've used epoxy "putty" and epoxy "slurry". Is the difference in proportions? How do you mix them?
mixmkr
Well-Known Member
Epoxy is like West Sys witb their 404, 403, etc fillers.
The "slurry" I used in my daggerboard was just fiberglass resin with scissors cut up mat....like a chopper gun would do. Of course MEK for the resin "kicker"
You can buy "kitty hair" filler that is a pre made version in a can too. ...next to the "Bondo" on the store shelf....which supposedly is nowadays semi-OK for marine repairs. Shrinks and cracks less. I still dont like it when there are much better choices. Bondo just has the name recognition....like Xerox.
The "slurry" I used in my daggerboard was just fiberglass resin with scissors cut up mat....like a chopper gun would do. Of course MEK for the resin "kicker"
You can buy "kitty hair" filler that is a pre made version in a can too. ...next to the "Bondo" on the store shelf....which supposedly is nowadays semi-OK for marine repairs. Shrinks and cracks less. I still dont like it when there are much better choices. Bondo just has the name recognition....like Xerox.
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my2fish
with a 1976, you should have some overhang of the deck at the cockpit, and it's easy enough to install a block and cleat without opening up the hull.
(this was before I installed the stand-up spring)
(this was before I installed the stand-up spring)