Good. My advice here would be to ditch the traveller car, and attach the sheet block to a rope bridle. It wouldn't even need to be adjustable, but you can use the existing fittings on the side tank for that if you want. Makes sheeting easier. The track would be just a (very necessary!) structural feature.I have already ordered up a new traveller rail to replace the bent original.
That cleat should be at or near the back end of the centreboard case, with a turning block behind it. (More pictures!)Some of the set-up seems pretty obvious, like the Spinnaker halyard which comes out of the bottom of the mast and I have it cleated all the way toward the stern on the floor.
The main halyard seems to come out of the mast on the starboard side, make a 180° and cleat on a hook. There's no system for the jib halyard visible; you need at least a 6:1 (and preferably more) to get it properly tensioned.It's not clear where the main and jib halyards are meant to be cleated.
The vang is the most important adjustment in a 470, after the sheets! The poor 3:1 in the pictures is not original and is absolutely inadequate, even for recreational-only use. All the required blocks and cleats seem to be there on the centreboard case and the side tanks, so you only need a few new blocks between the mast and the boom. (And lots of low-stretch rope.) 16:1 is standard, 12:1 is fine.I see how the vang is rigged, so that should be an easy bit
As I said, you can use those for an adjustable bridle system as well.the traveller cleats through the little rollers in the brackets for the rail.
Looks simple, the sheet runs straight from the jib through the block, and cleats on the opposite side deck. No one has used that system since 1975 or so, but if you want to keep that original, fine.I see the big blocks for the jib sheets but I'm not sure where and how they route down there.
Yeah, sounds like a standard 4:1 mainsheet.The boom has two blocks, both for a connection with the traveller set up, I assume?
I see too many fairleads and blocks. It's like a previous owner has rigged new systems but hasn't bothered to undo the old ones. What type of turning block is there up the mast? (Picture!)I don't have any set up for a topping lift but I see blocks on the mast front and blocks below.
As in the previous area, there are too many blocks here, at least at the front end. You need only the one through block for the centreboard uphaul, for instance.The centerboard trunk, too, is a busy place. Lots of rollers, blocks and cleats up there.
If you have questions, I have answersSorry for so many questions but I am pretty much starting from scratch with the running rigging.
That's what I thought, too, but shouldn't the top edge of the centreboard hit the front end of the case before the trailing edge hits anything? There is also supposed to be an elastic system pulling the board down, so it can't even free-fall in the case that the boat turns upside down...Strap stops the trailing edge of the board from hitting the traveler bar and/or old-style compass mount.
I am pretty sure that it's for the centreboard uphaul. I don't right now have access to my 1970s sailing magazines to check it, but maybe next weekThe hole in the aft wall of the centercase (with two cam cleats at angels) is for the spin halyard.
Ok, fine. The boards (and cases) have come in slightly different dimensions over the decades, after all.Often, the trailing edge of the board will hit before the head of the boar does. To combat this, most boats add a stopper on the top forward area of the centercase so that the board hits the stopper first.
Not very likely. Their lines come through the two-sheave exit blocks in front of them, and it makes most sense if they are, as I said, for the cunningham and spinnaker pole uphaul.The angled open clam cleats on the case are for the centerboard adjustments.
The hull number doesn't say much, except maybe it's the 332nd 470 built by Vanguard. The sail number (which is a national one in 470s) would tell more.
Will this set-up do for the replacement vang?The vang is the most important adjustment in a 470, after the sheets! The poor 3:1 in the pictures is not original and is absolutely inadequate, even for recreational-only use. All the required blocks and cleats seem to be there on the centreboard case and the side tanks, so you only need a few new blocks between the mast and the boom. (And lots of low-stretch rope.) 16:1 is standard, 12:1 is fine.
I believe the registration year (and most likely the building year as well) would be 1973 or '74 then.I think my sail # is 1073.
Doesn't look like a "set-up", but a few parts that could be used to build a vang. You already have the cleats; if you want to keep the "oldie" look of the boat, get some "Classic" Harken blocks while they're still produced.Will this set-up do for the replacement vang?
470 Boom Vang | Mauri Pro
Possible but not likely with this vintage. It usually ran simply from side to side, in front of the mast or via the mast step. Of course those cheek blocks might be reused for that purpose.The mystery blocks are likely for the trapeze bungee system.
The main halyard seems to come out of the mast on the starboard side, make a 180° and cleat on a hook. There's no system for the jib halyard visible; you need at least a 6:1 (and preferably more) to get it properly tensioned.
Well, yes... although the cleating angle is pretty, ahem, interesting. You'd need to operate it with your feetHere is the cleat that I assume is for the spinnaker halyard, yes?
Well, yes... although the cleating angle is pretty, ahem, interesting. You'd need to operate it with your feetBetter move it to the side of the centreboard case (and add a top fairlead to it). Also, a "normal" single block would work better as an aft lead block than the cheek-y one.
I agree that that cleating angle is odd but what else would it be used for? Perhaps there's a cleating position already on the side of my centerboard case for the spinnaker halyard? That centerboard trunk is a busy place, indeed!
What happened to the hiking straps?
There really seems to be nothing to hook it onto. I believe the most often used system is a 12:1 (cascading 2x6) that runs mostly along the centreboard case near the floor. For recreational-only use (that's what I'm assuming here all the time) you'd get away with half of that, with a 420-style system along the mast.Here is where the jib halyard exits the mast, just below where the mast attaches. It currently has a loop at the end of the existing halyard. It's not clear to me where this halyard cleats. As you mentioned, it should go through some combination of blocks in order to achieve a 6:1
Yes, there should be a loop at the end of the wire, just like the jib halyard has.The main halyard, too, exits the starboard side of the lower mast. I see a hook above this area. Does the halyard hook onto this somehow?
Just move the existing straps aft. There should be no such thing as "forward hiking straps". They'd just get in the crew's way.The rear hiking straps are torn. I'll order up some new one at some point.
Yes, there should be a loop at the end of the wire, just like the jib halyard has.
The main halyard can be of low-stretch rope, but the hook on your mast indicates that the original was wire. Also, there wasn't really good enough rope for this purpose available in the early 1970s.My Jib and main halyards are fashioned out of rope. Should they be wires/cables and not rope?
Yes! The luff, thanks.Jib halyard: I hope it's the luff of your jib that has a wire in it
the 470 rudder can be held down (and up) by friction alone, but a downhaul is standard and and uphauls are used, too. The classic Vanguard rudder also relies on them to keep the tiller in place!
Are there any cleats, or screw holes left by them on the tiller?
Bolt a standard Laser retaining clip to the transom above and inside the lower pintle and you're ok.
those can be made of numerous different materials, and attached in many different ways
What "extra"?What happens to all of the extra cable as the sail is hoisted on the 470?
I've used acrylic sheet and hinged them from the top edge with different materials (I'll try neoprene the next time) which act as a seal against the transom as well. They keep closed with an elastic rope attached to a horn cleat on the centreline.I was thinking of making some plastic or fiberglass flaps and try and spring (or bungie) load them somehow. Certainly, the tape method will get me by.
That's what it's all about... trying to concentrate on 20 things at oncekind of all over the place with this rigging.
That's a 12:1 rigged as a 2x6. Not bad, but it would make things too crowded at the mast end of it. The problem with almost all systems on that page is that they're drawn as single-ended, and the 470 vang is double-ended. (Ok, it could be rigged single-endedly, but that would be very pointless as your boat already has the needed, standard fittings for the double-ended system at the back.) They all need one more block to lead the other tail down and back.I'm thinking of modelling something like #8 in this schematic.
VANG SYSTEMS | Ronstan Sailboat Hardware World
If you're actually going to order stuff now, I can give you a smarter (and cheaper) listI noticed that vang setup on the Harken site. I think I'll buy those blocks and rig it up from there.
Rope that thick is only good for the mainsheet. 3 or 4 mm single-braid Dyneema is good for the primary part of the vang, and 4 to 5 mm double-braid polyester for the cleating part.Is something like a Dyneema rope a good option? 8 or 9mm?
I'd do it the opposite way: more fundamental, "big" things first. One gets easily stuck in the shackle-and-pin level details and getting nowhere. Been there countless times. My advice is to prioritize the things you completely lack:I'm going to try and sort out some of these smaller rigging challenges (vang, spin pole lift/downhaul, jib, main, spinnaker sheets, etc) as I explore the main and jib halyard situations.
It's a sideways jib lead adjustment system. I already commented on it:I have noticed that the jib sheets have an interesting set-up. There is a sort of bridle thing with looped ends that each sheet runs through on the way to each block. My current setup has a similar setup and the bridle has a loop tied in the middle, near the mast. What is the purpose of this gizmo?
Frees at least two blocks for something actually useful, like the vang7: The track and the line are apparently for a sideways jib lead system. It's completely unnecessary and it would be best to remove it altogether.
That sort of I-track should be widely available. For example, wouldn't this do: Ronstan 3/4" I beam track 3'3I'm having trouble finding a suitable replacement for the brace that also serves as the traveller track.
what kind of vang attachment is there on the boom? (Picture!) What make and model is the current vang key (boom) block? (Picture)
That sort of I-track should be widely available. For example, wouldn't this do: Ronstan 3/4" I beam track 3'3
3. Mast puller (if you have chocks hiding somewhere, forget this for now)
Couple more things that we haven't touched on yet: how's the trapeze equipment? (Picture!) And what about the centreboard gaskets?
Yesmy jib halyard IS a cable, not a rope.
In the pictures, there's nothing that limits mast bend at deck level. I commented on this earlier:Mast puller? Chocks?
The vang won't work properly if it bends the lower mast uncontrollably. The old-school way to limit this was to insert t-shaped chocks of plywood or plastic in front of the mast. They were certainly used on your boat when it was new.3: Here's where the spinnaker pole downhaul goes through the mast gate. No idea why there's a second fairlead, and a block on the mast.
No visible mast puller (deck-level mast bend adjustment) either. You need to rig one but we'll come back to that later.
Pictures!I do have some trapeze hardware (cables, a pair of figure eight-looking fittings, blocks, etc.) but I know little about how to set them up.
...which gets solved the moment you have a working jib halyard system. That's what tightens the shrouds.Shroud and forestay tension is another issue...