1981 Sunfish parts

R

Rdavidschm

New Member
Just got an old Sunfish. I need the “traveler” /bridle. Any recommendations? I get stay—like wire at hardware store then need to crimp the ends together somehow. also, any recommendation for replacement sails or sail snaps? I will probably add a swiveling cam cleat for the main sheet. Any recommendations on that and how best to secure it the boat. Are cam cleats legal in Sunfish one-design racing?
 
R,

If you plan to race in Sunfish Class sanctioned regattas, you will need to use Class approved parts. If not, you can do whatever. For the traveler,
I would just use line tied off at each deck eye. Hardware store wire and clamps will rust and stain your deck over time. A swiveling cam cleat is Class legal. The base of a Harken or Ronstan units usually has three holer and that pattern will fit centered on the deck just aft of the daggerboard trunk and the edge of the cockpit. Drill holes and mount with flat head stainless machine screws with washers and stainless lock nuts.

As for a newer sail, if you plan to race, you will need a Class legal all-white sail with window. Expensive, about $450. You can buy an aftermarket sail
for under $125 with window. The consensus is that Intensity makes the best aftermarket Sunfish (but no "Sunfish" logo.) Other aftermarket saikmakers:
Kevane and Neil Pryde. Avoid the no-brand sails on e-bay - shipping problems and no warranty. None of the aftermarket sails are class legal for racing. You can usually buy the nylon sail attachment clips from Sunfish Direct ot The Dinghy Shop on Ling Island, NY. All of these companies have websites and ship.

Good luck.

Alan Glos
Cazenovia, NY
 
Here are a couple ideas for the mainsheet ratchet block. Cam cleat is definitely optional, I don’t use one on my newer Sunfish with the rolled cockpit edges.

my2fish.wordpress.com

sunfish mainsheet controls upgrade

I’ve written several posts in the past about upgrading to a Sunfish mainsheet ratchet block and the associated rigging to control your mainsheet. sunfish mainsheet block sunfish mainsheet blo…
my2fish.wordpress.com my2fish.wordpress.com


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Alan S. Glos said:
R,

If you plan to race in Sunfish Class sanctioned regattas, you will need to use Class approved parts. If not, you can do whatever. For the traveler,
I would just use line tied off at each deck eye. Hardware store wire and clamps will rust and stain your deck over time. A swiveling cam cleat is Class legal. The base of a Harken or Ronstan units usually has three holer and that pattern will fit centered on the deck just aft of the daggerboard trunk and the edge of the cockpit. Drill holes and mount with flat head stainless machine screws with washers and stainless lock nuts.

As for a newer sail, if you plan to race, you will need a Class legal all-white sail with window. Expensive, about $450. You can buy an aftermarket sail
for under $125 with window. The consensus is that Intensity makes the best aftermarket Sunfish (but no "Sunfish" logo.) Other aftermarket saikmakers:
Kevane and Neil Pryde. Avoid the no-brand sails on e-bay - shipping problems and no warranty. None of the aftermarket sails are class legal for racing. You can usually buy the nylon sail attachment clips from Sunfish Direct ot The Dinghy Shop on Ling Island, NY. All of these companies have websites and ship.

Good luck.

Alan Glos
Cazenovia, NY
Click to expand...

thanks, Very helpful!
 
Like Alan, I am a die-hard old time racer.
The 'legal stuff' requirement isn't enforced for most (!) local racing, but if you want to participate in Regional and National regattas, you should get legal parts.
 
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Wavedancer said:
Like Alan, I am a die-hard old time racer.
The 'legal stuff' requirement isn't enforced for most (!) local racing, but if you want to participate in Regional and National regattas, you should get legal parts.
Click to expand...
That is a relief. I’ll check with local racers
 
Pulling the screws for the bridle can be risky. Sometimes they come easy and others, you are putting a hole in the deck to fix it.

If you are not class racing a line will do the trick that is how my son's 1980 is rigged.
 
Sunfish direct by far has the largest selection of sails in stock. They currently have both class legal and recreational sails in stock and ready to ship. Sunfish Sails

Sunfish direct also has all sail rings in stock and are the only one to offer colored sail rings. They all can be purchase in the traditional (30) pack or individually. Sunfish Sail Rings
 
I see the bridle went from a center loop to connect to the sheet to no loop/full traveler. wouldn’t that improve downwind tacks and hamper how high you can point?
 
Rdavidschm

From LaLi on another thread

On a single-sail boat, you want to set the boom at a non-zero angle to the centreline in order to gain maximum VMG (best speed/height compromise) upwind. Also, you don't need very much twist (difference in angle between top and bottom of the sail) going upwind, so you want the sheet to pull more or less straight down. Therefore the sheet lead (the point towards which the sheet pulls) should be to leeward of the centreline at all times. The original Sunfish bridle setup obviously didn't take this into account, but it was later improved, and made into what effectively is a traveller, by deleting the centre loop.
 
Not disagreeing but, to me, the purpose of the center loop is to help keep the clew clear of the water when greatly heeled over.

Once the clew is caught--the boom can't be let out further--and OVER you go!
 
From.a.racing.perspective the sunfish must be sailed as flat as.possible. lots of hiking, ease hike trim on puffs all to keep the mast vertical and the board working. The claw should never be in the water.

Larry Lewis book Sail it Flat. The Sunfish Racing Primer.
 
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