Thanks!What type of stain, varnish, lacquer did you use on the daggerboard and rudder? They look amazing! Great job.
Thanks Beldar!Your work looks great! The hull and deck are both gelcoat. And yes it did shine when it was built in 1965. http://www.sunfishklasse.nl/documenten/Sunfish Timeline.pdf
There is another very recent thread that said what type of compound to use to get some gloss back - those old blue and red boats really oxidized and did it quickly.
Your sail is from the ‘80s and should be on the other side of the mast.
Hope you get lots of enjoyment!!
Awesome - Much appreciated!Nice boat. I'd try some wet sanding with 2000 grit, maybe 1600.
Yes, the deck and the hull are gelcoat over fiberglass. If you start to see the blue go away you've sanded too far. Those boats had pretty thick gelcoat, but it did heavily oxidize. We have had success with 3M Fiberglass Restorer and Wax after the wet sanding.
Skipper's first Sunfish is a 1965.
Thanks I just saw it! I've got some logistical work to do before I move on to the wet sanding, but I'm hoping it works out and I can post some more photos. I soaked the eye straps overnight and just used some brass polish to bring them back to life a bit.Signal Charlie just posted the info I was thinking of!
Hahaha, yeah my first week of quarantine project is turning into an odysseyLet's be VERY clear, I am not an expert on gelcoat restoration, however, what I have done with moderate success is sanding (wet or dry is an on-going debate, and I have done both to the same Laser bottom with the exact same results) starting with 180 grit, then 220 to get much of the oxidation removed. If the gelcoat is thick like people have stated previously, then 150 grit and 180 grit shouldn't hurt it with numerous passes by hand. After you get the oxidation out, then go with a 1500 (hard cut), 2500 (medium cut), and then 3500 (fine cut) polish using an orbital. On mine, I skipped the 1500 and went straight to the 2500, 3500 then wax. THEN, a wax (Turtle Wax) to finish. I think because you started with 1500, it didn't get the oxidized gelcoat off. And, now since you have already put on a wax, you would have to go down to a lower grit to remove that layer before getting to the oxidized part of the gelcoat. Not sure what the weather is like right now in NY, but it seems like a good Fall/Winter project so you can have more fun snapping tillers this summer...which is hilarious btw. All that work finishing your tiller, and snap! The pleasures of owning and sailing a boat! CHEERS!
Copy that, thanks I just found it I'll read it tonight!Check out the "Ultimate Inspection Port" before cutting.
Cool thanks, but does my '65 have a drain plug? I'll have to look again in the light tomorrow, I don't remember seeing that...but I would like to make the minimal number of ports.You might get away with just the one port behind the splashguard. When you’re ready to add the fan just remove the threaded drain plug from the top of the deck and it will act as a mini-port. Adding the black plastic will definitely speed up the process. Have you done a leak test yet?
Thanks mixmkr! Lots of great tips and info. I was hoping I could do it by hand (and save dough)....but I think I'm gonna have to table it for the fall/winter -- I'll need a buy a rotary buffer (all I have is a bosch orbital sander) and I've already sunk a bunch of money so far and the buffer isn't really on my pandemic budget right nowI am an "expert"....as my customers might think ....lol!...with gelcoat repairs and restoration. Skip any sanding with a grit lighter than #1000 grit, as your buffing will take out all those scratches. In fact a good compound will take out 400 grit scratches in gelcoat, with a couple passes. Yes...darker colors go lighter, but you're wasting effort with such a fine grade. But yes...jet black will show marks from bluejeans sliding across!!. ..and those fine grades are best on paint jobs and clear costs where you want zero buffer swirls and a mirror gloss. I wouldn't shoot for that level until you might have a healthy amount of experience anyway.
For buffing you definitely (for your job) need to power buff with a rotary buffer at a slow speed with preferably a 3M wool pad. The "2 hand" foam backed, random orbit buffers you see at Wal-Mart and AutoZone will end up in the trash, before you finish the job. The 3M restorer/wax (for heavy oxidized) is good stuff. Google "Aqua-Buff 2000" for a superior compound for buffing gelcoat. There are techniques and methods beyond this, used in quality body shops etc...but this will get you incredible results. Now ask me about matching the color white with gelcoat!!....which btw is the best color for hiding swirl marks and scratches.
Thanks Signal Charlie! Thanks for the youtube links, I'm going to try it this weekend. I have to fix my wet vac first, or maybe try the basketball pump, that's all I have here. I took photos of both sides of the coaming:Yes your 65 has a plug, it is in the photo just next to the end of the coaming on the port side.
Don't read about air leak tests, watch. We have several variations on our youtube channel.
Oh man I like that "cheeseburger" pile, looks like someone got a special delivery from PaneraMixmkr, Great info on gelcoat restoration, Do you have recommendations on specific makes and models of rotary buffers and the 3M wool pad? And I'll ask..how about matching the color white gelcoat?
Clark_lake Your gelcoat is in great shape for a green boat, keep experimenting with wet sanding, and don't be too aggressive on the grit at first if you decide to switch over to power sanding. A disc that starts out as a 220 grit will quickly dull to a higher grit, and that disc might be just the grit you want.
BTW your Grandma rocks! Tell us a bit more about her and the boat. You are doing a great job with the restoration, asking good questions and sharing great tips on specific methods and materials.
-Those hulls from the 60s are some of the best built. She should weigh 139 pounds but 145 or so is not unusual. You can weigh her by placing her on her side on a bathroom scale, we place a small towel down to prevent hull scratches.
-Skipper wants to know if water got inside while you were sailing? If the boat was stored for a while out of the elements she should have been dry, and she may have taken on water during the test sail, Skipper guesses through the daggerboard trunk. If you hear water sloshing she needs to be drained. You can open that deck drain and see if water comes out before you weigh her. And do the air leak test ASAP so you can repair any leak areas. Common leak spots are the daggerboard trunk and bailer cockpit/hull seam, and sometimes tiny crush areas along a chine.
-There is an alternative to cutting holes for ports if she has wet foam inside, the factory repair was to remove trim, split the deck/hull seam for a few feet, go inside and scoop out the wet expanding foam. Refoam to secure the flotation blocks and close her back up. DO NOT SPLIT THE ENTIRE SEAM. Leave the seams alongside the cockpit alone.
You might find this inside. We call it the cheeseburger.
View attachment 39570
We took 39 pounds of wet foam out of HOOPS.
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A few more notes...
-Your "brass" is actually bronze, made by Wilcox and Crittenden. They sold bronze bits to Alcort by the pound.
-I don't know if the green boats ever had a deep, glossy shine, they seemed to have more of a satin finish. We like satin, less glare.
-And you should always leave one screw in place with the deck hardware, as there are wood backer blocks underneath that were held in by adhesive and a fiberglass strap. The adhesive and fiberglass inside dry out, leaving the block held in place by screws only. Loosen the screws, take one out (or 3 on the bow handle), swivel the hardware clear of the open hole(s) and reinsert a screw. You want to avoid the dreaded "thunk" of a block falling loose. The bridle eyestraps are okay sometimes because there may be extra cheeseburger holding them in place.
Someone put screws that were too long and too big in this eyestrap backer in an effort to reuse it, a good place for a water leak. Would have been better to dowel and glue an oversize hole, then redrill a small pilot hole. Screws should be #8 x 1 inch bronze wood screws.
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Here's another photo before the initial clean...
Hi Clark,
Great boat, I love the color green!
Looking at this picture, it seems you are missing the rudder tube which prevents the rudder from moving side to side. Just look for the recent thread “new to all things sunfish”, and it will tell you all you need to know.
Good luck!
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It's a DeWalt rotary....for 7 or 9" grinder or buffer pads that screw on. Don't know the model number offhand and there is probably a newer model now too. It's variable speed, has a 90 degree handle and ran about $150.....oh its yellow too!Mixmkr, Great info on gelcoat restoration, Do you have recommendations on specific makes and models of rotary buffers and the 3M wool pad? And I'll ask..how about matching the white gelcoat.......