Actually I have the newer style rudder set up but as you can see, part of the old gudgeon is left on the deck...I guess to fill the alum trim space in the back!!! Anyrate...the tiller straps on the rudder head also "flexed" slightly too....but I have some stainless straps to fix that.Btw, do you have the original 1969 rudder setup with bronze parts? If so, that tiller has to be at least two inches wide at its widest spot. How could that be bending?
Sunfish are really well built and it is not uncommon to see an all-original 1960s boat still going strong, so don't worry about the fittings.
. Masts used only in fresh water are not as likely to break as those used is salt water. When they break they generally break at the gooseneck or deck.I can see busting masts though and those little spars like to bend too. .
"Free" also, would be to shorten the tiller by 1-inch at the rudder end, then drill two new holes devised to raise the tiller off the deck.Oh...goofy-ness...I put a plastic battery strap holder on the underside of the tiller...so the bolt head won't scratch the deck anymore. Maybe "jury rigged"...but all free.
I like that sail pattern!the pic is where the gooseneck and halyard where set... admittedly the gooseneck was pretty far forward... 16 inches or so...and the boom off the deck about a foot
Deck rash:"Free" also, would be to shorten the tiller by 1-inch at the rudder end, then drill two new holes devised to raise the tiller off the deck.
Look up "deck rash" in Search.
I had the problem of the screw sawing at the tiller, but didn't have the brass sleeve suggested. My particular tiller is made of three parallel pieces of wood.I've never seen original wood tiller in good shape bend under any normal loads on a Sunfish. I'd just get a 1X1 of ash, oak or mahogany and make a new tiller. (poplar might even work but won't last as long)
Maybe the Bimini tubes would work, but I'd want nice rounded caps on the tube ends.
The extension is needed for letting you sit further forward in the boat. Changing balance fore and aft helps with steering upwind vs downwind.
To deal with the screw sawing at the wood I'd get slip-fit brass tube over the screw and epoxy the brass into the wood then trim off flush.
The daggerboard and rudder will show severe rot issues before failing.
You'd be surprised how rotted out the dagger was on my Vagabond and it was still working. (just finished making a new one from mahogany with a large lead slab at the bottom)
Actually, 1/4 inch paracord is probably strong enough for any line on the Sunfish... but would be hell on your hands, especially for the main sheet.
If not racing you can make just about any modification you want.