Wood centerboard trailing edge repair

Thread starter #1
I'm working on re-finishing the wooden centerboard from my recently purchased laser. As can be seen in the picture there is a portion missing from the trailing edge, it is about 8 inches long and 1/2 inch deep. It seems as if there are several schools of thought to this type of repair: either epoxy a new piece of mahogany into the missing space or fill the missing area with epoxy. Does anyone have any opinions about which is the best method?



Both are suitable methods, when done correctly.
Imho, from a purist's standpoint, especially when keeping the daggerboard naturally finished in clear, the only method is wood.

It looks like you have some other long vertical splits further in that need attention too.


Active Member
I'd lean towards the piece of wood as well. I agree with the finish/looks comment. When I've tried this sort of thing with just epoxy, I've found it's hard to keep the epoxy in the correct shape while it's hardening. Using some cloth or filler helps, but it's still heavy and fluid, even tho it flows slowly. It really wants to sag and to flatten itself out - doesn't want to stay in a 3D shape.

Good luck with it


I think that the mahogany would look nice, as well; but if you decide to do the epoxy, there is a way. You want to make a mold out of fiberglass and epoxy from an undamaged spot further up on the trailing edge. This is easy.

1. Clean the undamaged trailing edge with some mineral spirits (acetone would destroy the finish already there).
2. Lay down a layer of mold release or wax the area thoroughly. Allow to dry.
3. Lay up a couple of strips of fiberglass saturated with epoxy on the waxed area. Let the layers cure and then pull the mold off the trailing edge.You can saw off any stray sharp bits of fiberglass around the mold edges.
4. Clean the broken area of the centerboard and drill a few holes to give the epoxy something extra to grip onto.
5. Thoroughly coat the inside of the mold with mold release or wax. Let dry. Tape the mold onto the broken area.
6. Inject with thickened epoxy and tape over the open end to keep the resin in. Allow to cure.
7. Pull off mold. Clean off mold release. Sand to shape as needed. Done.

This is a very easy project and not that time consuming. Epoxy cures quickly! I think I did let my mold cure overnight, as I wanted no doubt it would be strong. I used this method to repair some bad rot around my front door frame when I couldn't find the replacement wood that I needed. I'm better with epoxy than fine carpentry.