Where to find Laser 2 bailer replacement?

I'm pretty sure the Super Shute 90 is no longer in production. Maybe the IYE Manufacturer that still might be producing Super Shute 60 would share the 90 info for someone to make parts? Otherwise the Andersen Super Max is very close in cut-out size and depth, though the mounting holes are not quite the same location (half hole off) as I remember it, with maybe a rounding of the corners to fit in the depression? So an epoxy fill and re-drill. It's been a long while, but I think toward the end of the Laser 2 production the boats were standard with the Anderson bailer.
 
IYE was dissolved in 2000. Someone has been making the Super Shute 60, as well as a whole line of traveller parts under the IYE name long after that date, though. Quite possibly RWO, who’s located in the same town (Benfleet, Essex).

I agree that it’s probably easiest to make the opening a few mm smaller, fill the old mounting holes, and install an Andersen. I’m not sure about the North American boats, but the PSE-built ones had the Super Max from at least 1989 on.

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Hi,

Please could someone email me with the 3D print files? @proto1 ? this would be a life saver! Our coastal rowing boats use these bailers & once damaged we can't source replacements due to not being made anymore.
[email protected]

Many Thanks
Jon
Captain
Eastbourne Rowing CLub
 
My bailer died the same way as yours (hinge on the front is gone).
I'd love to get a copy of the stl files as well! (I just sent the Google Drive request.)
What material did you use to print them?
 
My bailer died the same way as yours (hinge on the front is gone).
I'd love to get a copy of the stl files as well! (I just sent the Google Drive request.)
What material did you use to print them?
I just wound up fixing my old one. As the only thing wrong with mine was the hinge, I made a new one out of some thin, somewhat flexible plastic (I have no idea what it actually is; it was laying around my shop. I was considering using the side of a milk jug but wasn't sure if it would stand up to the sun.
Basically, I made a plastic gasket with a tab that is cut out so that it flexes. I cut a slot in the actual bale for the tab to slide in. Once it's put into the bale and the bale is in the original frame, everything stays connected so I didn't have to even glue the new gasket to the bale.
 

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My bailer died the same way as yours (hinge on the front is gone).
I'd love to get a copy of the stl files as well! (I just sent the Google Drive request.)
What material did you use to print them?
I used PETG to print the bailer parts because it's strong and resistant to water. Check your email for the Google Drive link to the STL files. Let me know if you have any questions about the printing process!
 

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