Interesting, 2 little bottles covered in foam not filled with foam? Also, is it weird that it only has a foam block on one side of the hull? Finally, will a sunfish dagger board fit a porpoise II? Sadly mine came missing one...You have a shiny RED Porpoise II?
I bought a Porpoise II, then found out my BIL and I couldn't lift it!Briefly, what I did was to put in two inspection ports, and reached in to pull out all the disintegrated foam—those handfuls were like soaked sponges.
I then coated a bunch of empty, capped, 2-liter bottles with expanding foam, and pushed them in as far as they would go.Competent-enough a sailboat, it's now sold. "Search" Porpoise here, there's a lot of information.
BTW 1: You could do us Porpoise-members a favor by figuring out how the cockpit drains work. Are they simply straight black tubes? Maybe press a digital camera, set at wide-angle, against the upper drain and take a picture?
BTW 2: There's a 4" wide fiberglass brace under the rear deck. I suggest installing an inspection port that is set off to the side. A 5" port—offset—should clear the brace.
The daggerboards are interchangeable with Sunfish. The Porpoise II wood grip has a large arrow indicating "forward". I kept the Porpoise II board, as it was the best of the lot. Good boards can be found cheaply at eBay, but shipping-costs can torpedo a "good deal".
'Don't think I'd remove the foam blocks until it's been determined that they're not useful. Be aware that drying-out with a fan will take all winter.BTW: Those "fingers" of fiberglass can draw blood!
You do seem to missing a foam block. My Porpoise' deck—aft—wasn't very strong following the removal of my water-soaked flotation. In the case of your boat, perhaps it was an expediency of hurried construction?
I'd given some thought to gluing new Styrofoam disks together to fit inside my new, offset, 6" inspection port. To glue and move them—like stacked checkers—to support the deck against my weight—then considered that they'd eventually become crushed and no longer useful, so decided against it. The forward Styrofoam blocks seemed clean and dry.
The 2-liter bottles were added to add critical floatation, should things go very wrong. I added foam on their outsides to keep the bottles from rolling around. Adding foam to the insides would be a waste of effort—IMHO.
A view (outdoors, in the sun) ...um...from the aft port (corner), looking forward:
View attachment 24083
After closer inspection there are two foam blocks in the aft one is just pushed over farther than the other. I'm going to try and dry them with a heater very low and a fan.
The cockpit drains straight into the hull and the bottom of the hull has 2 scuppers that are upen to the hull. Boat wasn't flipped over and water filled the cockpit. Know wonder the hull was saturated. I need to install tubes connecting the top to the bottom.
Thanks for the info. Looking for a board next.
Scott
Mixmkr, I got the 2-liter bottles idea from an engineer-genius, Pete McHenry, [late] of Winton-Salem, NC. Before modding BMWs—including my M3—he was a legend in Mercury outboard re-engineering.After closer inspection there are two foam blocks in the aft one is just pushed over farther than the other. I'm going to try and dry them with a heater very low and a fan.
The cockpit drains straight into the hull and the bottom of the hull has 2 scuppers that are open to the hull. Boat wasn't flipped over and water filled the cockpit. No wonder the hull was saturated. I need to install tubes connecting the top to the bottom.
Thanks for the info. Looking for a board next.
Scott
I think the bottles are a great idea, they serve a purpose. Also, the bottles will not get waterlogged, and they can be easily replaced, an advantage over a foam. Your later remark about the weight is correct and could be useful for a daysailor or race. I saw you mentioned the M3, that is one of my favorite cars BMW has ever made, I prefer the older design ones though, but they all are very nice.The daggerboards are interchangeable with Sunfish. The Porpoise II wood grip has a large arrow indicating "forward". I kept the Porpoise II board, as it was the best of the lot. Good boards can be found cheaply at eBay, but shipping-costs can torpedo a "good deal".
'Don't think I'd remove the foam blocks until it's been determined that they're not useful. Be aware that drying-out with a fan will take all winter.BTW: Those "fingers" of fiberglass can draw blood!
You do seem to missing a foam block. My Porpoise' deck—aft—wasn't very strong following the removal of my water-soaked flotation. In the case of your boat, perhaps it was an expediency of hurried construction?
I'd given some thought to gluing new Styrofoam disks together to fit inside my new, offset, 6" inspection port. To glue and move them—like stacked checkers—to support the deck against my weight—then considered that they'd eventually become crushed and no longer useful, so decided against it. The forward Styrofoam blocks seemed clean and dry.
The 2-liter bottles were added to add critical floatation, should things go very wrong. I added foam on their outsides to keep the bottles from rolling around. Adding foam to the insides would be a waste of effort—IMHO.
A view (outdoors, in the sun) ...um...from the starboard aft port (corner), looking forward:
View attachment 24083
Should an inspection port installed on the port side be called a "port port"?
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Interesting question, seeking an answer to floatation and structural support.Well isn't this fun,
Thanks all for the conversation, it's wonderful.
But on someone may have hit on an idea...
Are there any types of inflatable bags that you could stuff inside then blow up?
Just a thought...
Thanks again for the reply's...
Scott
One of our local stores just listed swimming pool cover weight bags for sale and I thought of this thread. They were around $7.Well isn't this fun,
Thanks all for the conversation, it's wonderful.
But on someone may have hit on an idea...
Are there any types of inflatable bags that you could stuff inside then blow up?
Just a thought...
Thanks again for the reply's...
Scott
At 15 pounds, my mini-dachshund was an easy carry. I used that one "Fido Unit" to mentally calculate the effort needed to lug outboards, small boats, and floor mounted power tools from place to place.One Sunfish = 9 Bowling Balls
It's about one-forty-fifth as heavy as The Tongue of a Blue Whale.
It's about one-two-hundredth as heavy as an Anchor of a Cruise Ship.
It's about 300 times as heavy as a Hamster.
I would just try to dry out the old foam blocks, and not tear the whole boat apart to replace them. if they are loose, you can pour in some 2-part expanding foam (closed cell... not the spray cans of Great Stuff).
I did this process and documented it here: foam block reset