Type of "poly" for refinishing daggerboard.

[cwigg]

Is it ok to use a standard Minwax polyurethane to refinish a daggerboard and rudder, or do i need to go take a second mortgage and buy the marine stuff?

By the way guys.....thanks for the advice on repairing the split rudder. It really worked well, and I didn't drill any holes in flesh or bone.

 

[Al Court]

You can use it. Now, if you did it right (the prep) how much do you value your time doing so? The Minwax is no different than the marine stuff. Check previous post by myself using the REAL expensive stuff sold to the aircraft industry. It will far out last anything else, and I value my time spent with the prep.

Al Court woodshop teacher

 

[Porpoise2]

Your opinion on using West® epoxy as a wood coating please?

I planned to remove all the present finish, and do just that this winter.

 

[supercub]

P2,

West (or any good) epoxy would make a more durable finish than plain varnish, but the epoxy still needs the UV protection of a good varnish or it will be affected by the UV rays. One Ocean Kayaks http://www.oneoceankayaks.com/Epoxtest.htm has a comparision test of epoxys (over glass cloth on wood) that includes a weather exposure test (one year). A couple of side articles also talks about maintainance and a 2 part varnish. Check other cedar strip canoe/kayak sites for more info. As Al Court points out, how much is your time worth? Stripping the old finish, preping the surface, application of either epoxy, varnish or both (multiple coats of each) all add up.

 

[Porpoise2]

"... As Al Court points out, how much is your time worth? Stripping the old finish, preping the surface, application of either epoxy, varnish or both (multiple coats of each) all add up..."

I'm newly retired.

My time is worthless!

 

[supercub]

P2,

I'm newly retired.

My time is worthless!

Your time is not worthless, you just have more of it than those of us still working.

 

[diverrick]

A better question is how muh do you truly enjoy sanding and varnishing? Even dedicated woodworkers find that part of a project to be a necessary evil, not a pleasant relaxation. It is repetitive and mostly boring.

Having said that, it is also true that the daggerboard and rudder of a Sunfish are relatively simple shapes that can mostly be sanded with power tools, and very little hand sanding.

 

[Porpoise2]

I won't be racing it.

Should I take the trouble to "fair" the leading and trailing edges more sharply?

 

[supercub]

P2,

The Sunfish Bible suggests that the Leading Edge of both the rudder and dagger board be rounded (see picture from the SF Bible) for better penatration and resist stalling. Some build it up with a fiberglass putty and then shaped or make a new blade with the rounded shape. The Laser sailors often leave a 3/32"-1/8" square trailing edge (helps eliminated the sometimes heard hum), both modifications are allowed by the rules (3.2.3). I know you won't be racing, but by rounding the edges, I have found the SF is smoother than with the tapered leading edge. Stick your hand out the window on your next drive with your hand flat and as a fist, the flat hand jerks up and down, the fist is smoother. The plastic racing boards are better yet.