Many consider the aluminum Trailex trailer the best, but it does cost more than your standard galvanised trailer (my choice). Almost any low capacity trailer ( less than 700 lbs cap.) will do. You can reduce the capacity by removing a leaf (in many cases) to give your SF a softer ride. You will probably need to make custom bunks to carry your SF. A single roller in front and 2 carpeted pieces of 2 x 4 in the back is ok for an aluminum jon boat, but is NOT the way to go for a SF. A 2" rubber "Vee" block for the bow to rest in, contored bunks, padded and carpeted, 6" wide x 8' long about 2' apart that keep the hull from contact with any rollers or trailer frame seem to work pretty well. 12" wheels are better than 8" wheels in my opinion, but will cost about $170 to upgrade (three wheels w/tires and new fenders). Bearing buddies are a good thing to have and working lights. Go new or look for a used trailer in good shape. Good Luck.
A single or double jet ski trailer is fine (I thought about it, but the one I looked at was too short). The main towbar, from the hitch to the axel, 9' is about the minimum you can go. That puts the winch post just behind the hitch and does not leave room for a trailer jack. My friends trailer is 11' and mine is 13' (hitch to axel). Overall length of the trailer with the SF mounted and ready to go from the Hitch to the very end of my SF is just under 20'. The wieght of the trailer at the hitch is 65lbs, over all weight is about 350 lbs I am guessing (160 lbs+/- for boat, sail, mast, booms plus 190+/- for the trailer).
If it was converted to a Jet ski from a boat, why not convert it back to a boat trailer? Unless the main tow bar was shortened too much.
Others have used one of those kind (see Shorty Pens website) and many have sold them and obtained a regular boat trailer. The two I have are a 1986 Load Rite Lil' Rider (780 lbs cap) and 2005 B&M (Haul Rite) 600 lbs cap.
IT's cool! It's 16" and you can adjuest the distance between the winch and the axle from between something like 7 and 12ish feet. It doesn't have truly submersible lights--the guy undoes the alectrical before he submerges it and that see4ms to work for him--I'm going to look into sealed tail lights. The spare needs replacing, but exists. I don't know how to measure weels but the rims were something like 9" diameter. The cool part about it is that it has this secured extra hinge thingy in the middle of the, I'll call it an arm to the car, for lack of knowing the jargon, that tips the carrier part of the trailer so you can poor out any water that might have gotten in the boat. I'd like it if nothing ever came out the transom drain, but it's a nice idea. Might be handy for a really steep grade, too, but I don't know about that. Anyway. I bought it for $100 and now I need to make some cradles or something. I'm not certain about the bearings, but the previous owner before the one whose selling it to me was a mechanic, so I doubt their terrible.
I know that all the cool people trailer their boats deck to the sky, but (a) I don't think I can turn it over by myself and (b) my boat is old and funky and not stiff anyway, and (c) I have a medium sized lake 5 minutes from here and a biggish lake 20 miles from here and (d) I'll put lots of rubber on the cradle as we have been advised to do here.
So thanks again, all. I'm getting close and closer to the water!!!
________ Suzuki GSX series
Congrates on your "new" trailer. Your wheels are 8" (see sidewall, should say something like 4.80 x 8 (tire size) and can be replaced at Wal-Mart (tire about $25, wheel and tire about $45). New light kits can also be picked up at Wal-Mart (Peterson are square, Wes-Bar are rectangular) auto and marine sections (fix your cars electric first ). My newer trailer has the hinge in the middle, I never use it. Cradles are home made from contoured 2 x 6s, 2 layers of 1/4" plywood, 6" wide and covered with 1" foam (Fabric store) and outdoor carpet (Lowes). The following sites may be of help. Canadian Driver (bearings) http://www.canadiandriver.com/articles/bob5.htm, Laser Sailor http://www.jdecm.com/laser/dollies.htm#Trailers, and http://grotr4.tripod.com/trailers/. Also check the SFClass home page Tips and Tricks for other trailer info.
Your S-10 is big enough to pull a triple Sunfish trailer, so a single boat is a no worry situation. The Sunfish is light enough that by the time you get the trailer wheels just barely into the water, you should be able to slide the hull off the trailer and into the water without getting the wheels or the bearings wet. All mechanics I've spoken to have advised me to avoid wetting the wheels and bearings by submersion whenever possible.
Police LOVE finding boat trailers whose lights aren't functioning. Best way to keep them working after you rig them is to keep them out of the water. Even that 5 minute ride can be a costly one if the cops catch you with lights out.
There are tons and tons of web pages with info on how to build bunks and the rest for Sunfish that I won't write about it. If you will primarily trail locally, there's no reason to do it upside down. If you get to where you start racing more and have a more sound hull, then you'll be at the point where you'll want to consider building a rack that hauls the boat that way (and allows you to put the dolly on top of that for easy towing). Be sure to tie it down securely, as most damage comes from things being loose.