dang, if you got that for $200, that is a STEAL.
looks like the wood parts could stand to be re-finished.
a new sail can be bought from Intensity Sails (less than $150).
do a leak test.
ask questions! and congrats on the great find!
The North sail is widely considered one of the finest. (I have a Ratsey & Lapthorn in red, but it's much older).dang, if you got that for $200, that is a STEAL. looks like the wood parts could stand to be re-finished. a new sail can be bought from Intensity Sails (less than $150).
do a leak test. ask questions! and congrats on the great find!
That's an easy fix.Update: I just weighed the boat and it comes in at 125 pounds. I read here (How to Buy a Used Sunfish) that it should be between 115 and 130 pounds, so I'm guessing that's good, albeit a bit on the high side perhaps. I just ordered the replacement rudder pintle from intensity sails and the sail patch tape from Amazon. I could not find a gooseneck quick release for sale on the intensity sails website so I may try to find one of those at a local bike shop perhaps. To keep things simple for now (and cheap) I've decided to try to repair the original sail and see how it goes. I'm fairly OK with woodwork so I'm going to see how difficult a DIY daggerboard is to make before buying one. On another note, while I was weighing the boat I noticed that the drain siphon appears to be facing the wrong direction!
I think I'll probably do that. Its at $195 now, but I saw on here where it has been on sale for $160. I'm sure a bargain at either price compared to the non replica version, but I have a bit of time before I'm done with the other stuff I need to do so hopefully I can catch it on sale before then.I’d just get the FRP daggerboard from Intensity Sails. I have it - love it.
That makes sense now. I guess that's why I don't see any holes in the mast where this would have been.Just an FYI, no cleat required on mast to secure halyard. Original equipment is a cleat on deck for this purpose
Other plastic shower curtain clips will work.The clips can be replaced with short pieces of thin line. Glad you ordered a mast cap - the mast will slowly saw thru the hull without a cap.
for the mast cleats, I installed them just below the limit allowed by the Sunfish Class (max height for the cleat is 48″ from the base of the mast). I used the blue masking tape to mark off the 48″ limit. I used the 3M 4200 sealant behind the cleat, and fastened it on with #10 stainless steel sheet metal screws – I had to pre-drill the mast with small pilot holes.Question: Since I don't already have holes in the mast, would I just use some stainless self tapping screws to fasten the cleat to the mast?
EDIT: Very good video above—New to me.
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Apparently they don't sell those any longer. However, I was able to borrow one from a bike seat from my basement (another thrift store find). The gooseneck was a bit hard to work loose from its position. Its still a bit hard to move, even with the bolt completely removed. They had some sort of white tape around the spar under the gooseneck. It was positioned at 21 inches from the spar end.while you're there shopping at Intensity Sails - get the quick-release for your gooseneck control as well.
it's hard to see what is there for the mainsheet controls, but I'd probably upgrade to a ratchet block with a rubber boot or stand-up spring. on my 2000 Sunfish, I didn't bother adding a cam cleat, but they can be nice. see my blog post w/ mainsheet block upgrades
"Reads" like a good RTV sealant.I picked this up at Home Depot today to use for the gel coat chip repair. Should be OK? Also will work for air sealing the hull at the screw points of the fasteners?
View attachment 34020
From the packaging:
- Ideal for through-hull fastening and deck fittings
- Sealant is fast setting with 24 hour cure
- Delivers a watertight, flexible bond
- Use above or below waterline once cured
Expensive, and not what you want. Unless you have race-car driver reflexes, a gust can capsize a feller before the mainsheet can be released.Apparently they don't sell those any longer. However, I was able to borrow one from a bike seat from my basement (another thrift store find). The gooseneck was a bit hard to work loose from its position. They had some sort of white tape around the spar under the gooseneck. It was positioned at 21 inches from the spar end.
I only have the "Race-Lite" pulley for the cockpit main sheet controller, same as the two on the boom.
As an upgrade, I like your idea. I also see an option for this. Thoughts vs the setup above?
Ronstan Swivel Cam with Fairlead Great for Sunfish Mainsheet.
"Reads" like a good RTV sealant.
Loctite came onto the market as a thread-sealer, and continued to add grades, including some that weren't meant to budge-ever.
Expensive, and not what you want. Unless you have race-car driver reflexes, a gust can capsize a feller before the mainsheet can be released.
I like the block shown in the above videos, and I think you will, too.
That's what I've got, with the on/off switch I very seldom use.Well, its not the exact same as in the video, but just ordered the Harken 2135 57mm Single Ratchet Swivel Carbo Block NEW for $50+tax on Ebay.
View attachment 34022
That stuff says it has a pliable bond. Gelcoat is very hard. Maybe use Marine Tex or gelcoat for the gelcoat chips?So, good to go or no? I need air/leak sealing AND gelcoat skim on chipped gelcoat places.
Congrats on your new to you Sunfish find. I found mine for $125, all parts included, I think it is a 1970’s Mfg. My question is, how did you weigh the Hull? Thanks for sharing your find, good Luck with it. Look for a used Jet Ski trailer, they can be found cheap on Craig’s List or on Facebook Market place, I got my trailer for $150. LOLThat's an easy fix.Loosen the nut inside the cockpit, and rotate the bailer counter-clockwise from the outside. Re-tighten, and you're good to go. There should be a largish O-ring keeping the bailer off the hull, but some owners have tossed it, and glued the bailer to the hull. I think the O-ring was part of the intent to reduce impact damage on hard surfaces. (Bailers can break).
BTW: 125 pounds is a good weight.
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