Talk to me about the traveler

T

triguy46

New Member
My '82 has a wire traveler with a loop in the middle to clip the mainsheet. this would seem to allow essentially no traveler function. On some parts lists I see rope travelers listed, and traveler blocks. So which is it, the wire or rope w/block? Which is class legal? If rope w/block, how is it rigged to limit additional purchase which would seem to be a class issue? Is the block tied off to the end of the main sheet and allowed to freely move along the traveler?
 
TG,

The wire traveler, either with (3 loop) or with out (2 loop) the middle loop are both legal. The 2 loop is the current item sent with new Sunfish. Rope travelers are now illegal. The main sheet is attached to the traveler with a bowline or tied to a clip and then clipped around the traveler or to the traveler block (optional). Hope this helps. Check the ISCA rules on the Class home page. Good Luck
 
Ok, with you so far, mine has the three loop set up. But it would seem the two loop with either a clip or bowline in the end of the sheet would be better. Any opinion?
 
The straight wire traveler is better, but bite the bullet and get the detachable block. The clip attaches to it and the block slides much freer than either a bowline or the clip.
 
so do you recomend updated the traveler to a 2 loop system for better overall performance? seems like an easy thing to do. thanks

preston
 
preston,

Yep, easy to do. A little money for the bridle, a screwdriver and a few minutes time. Be careful removing and replacing the screws so that you do not strip them out. Suggest a little selant when replacing the screws.
 
Only remove 1 of the 2 screws on the eye and slide the wire out. It's rare, but the wood backing block occasionally drops if you pull them both. You don't want to have to cut an inspection port until it's needed.
 
I agree totally with Gail on only removing 1 screw to slip the bride out/in from the eye strap. I had to cut the foam out to reach the block (on both sides), when they fell into the hull, a real pain through a 5" port. After using some 3M 5200/4200 sealant to "glue" the blocks back in place, I then through bolted the eyestraps with SS Bolt, fender washers and nylock nuts. The foam was "glued" back in place with Great Stuff or similar.
 
I've fooled with boats long enough to be very suspicious of through hull screws. Thanks for the warning. Am hoping theres enough backing for one loosening and tightening.
 
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