I really don't want to work on reattaching the foam blocks until I get the boat down to at least somewhere under 160. I have no idea how long that is going to take coming from 260.
Did you read this?I've been sailing it on and off for a while, but never really found an easy way to weigh it, although I've long feared it was overweight.
I think I've heard putting a single small wattage bulb inside the hull can help - I thought about getting one of those auto repair trouble lights with the cage around it, and maybe a 60W bulb and using that.
You can use two bathroom scales, one at each end, and just add the readouts.Wayne, I have read the file. In regards to weighing it - the last time I tried it (a couple years ago), all the edge pressure on my $10 POS bathroom scale broke the dang thing.
You can use two bathroom scales, one at each end, and just add the readouts.
I'm curious what people's thoughts are on the heat gun approach. . .
I'm curious what people's thoughts are on the heat gun approach.
I had a 60watt bulb in my SF while upside down, it stayed on all day and night for a long time. I found a brown area just above the bulb, and it was slightly visible from the outside. It was a burn, so be careful. As others have said, slow and easy, it takes time to thoroughly dry it out, but it will dry out.
Also, using up electricity with a high wattage item, seems wasteful, a regular bulb, and a fan set up, should do it, again, you don't have to rush things.
The leak test is so simple and removing & reinstalling the trim can be time consuming at the very least, I recommend you do the test and see if the deck-to-hull seam is even suspect. The points below the waterline like the corners of the daggerboard slot or the bailer seal are much more likely candidates. . . should I remove the aluminum trim before preforming the leak test?
The hull to deck joint isn't out of the question, just lower on the list than other possibilities. Leaks are often something not obvious or even visible to the naked eye. As mentioned, the bailer seal is a candidate and visual inspection may or may not reveal a faulty gasket. An air test, on the other hand, will disclose any and all leaks no matter where or how small they are.I have searched all over the boat and find nothing but a few spider cracks. They are barley even there. I am hoping it is something around the hardware that can be fixed easily.
Gelcoat paints easily, but leaks should be addressed first. You are probably removing the trim anyway in order to paint so the effort wouldn't be wasted for the leak test, in this case.I plan to paint the boat next and have been reading up on painting gelcoat. Has anyone had any luck painting over gelcoat?
Sure...I noticed that the revit holes don't go all the way through. Does anyone have any advice on how to safely remove the trim without causing anymore damage?
When your repairs are complete, don't forget to leak test again. These leaks may be masking smaller leaks in more critical places below the water line, which might better account for the water you discovered.I drilled out the pop rivets and the trim came off nice and easy. I was able to see the seperation right were i had marked it from the leak test. It seems hard to believe that there was that much water in the boat with such tiny seperations.
You could. Removing the trim after that would probably distort it beyond re-use.Has anyone ever ran a bead of marine silicone or something along the inside of the trim just for extra seal? it seems to me a small bead of something would work well and as long as I repair the seperations correctly I have no intentions of taking the trim off again.
Similar...Is removing the coaming the same as removing the trim? Just drill out the pop rivets? They look quite larger.