Thanks! Those are all good suggestions. Like you, I'm just sailing for fun and am looking for reliability. I'll gladly spend the extra cash to upgrade wherever possible with no regulations to worry about. Most of my concern has to do with not being able to inspect problem areas.With my Laser & Minifish, the greatest pinpoint stress locations were:
1) Mast step, since all the drive created by the rig above is transmitted through this step.
2) Daggerboard well or trunk, since it is subjected to significant stresses with the daggerboard down and the boat under way... the higher the breeze & the rougher the surface chop, the greater the stresses.
3) Pintles & gudgeons for shipping the rudder, these often work loose over time due to forces on the rudder, and because folks sometimes forget to loosen the rudder line or raise the rudder a bit before beaching (yes, I've been guilty of this once or twice in decades past, LOL).
The other fittings, marine hardware, rigging & sail aboard my boats, well, they generally didn't receive as much abuse, partly due to my penchant for upgrading fittings, hardware, rigging & sail BEFORE equipment failed. And if something failed, I automatically replaced it with something BETTER which would withstand the abuse, particularly when sailing through shark-infested waters off the northern end of Baja.
Of course, I wasn't limited by any class rules or regs, just sailing each boat for recreational purposes... call it "high-performance recreation" in those glory days, LOL. So upgrades were welcome, even if that meant ponying up some cash, as the peace of mind was totally worth it. You know the old saw: "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure." This holds especially true in the nautical world, where MARINE SAFETY is a serious factor to be considered.
Just an observation or two from this old small craft sailor, nothing worse than having a primo party voyage or beach patrol interrupted or ruined by equipment failure, and later discovering that the failure could've been prevented by spending an extra $5 or $10 on some fitting, LOL. I've seen my share of equipment failures at sea too, which is why every little detail is important to me. If something looks sketchy or cheesy, swap it out, and damn the cost.
HOPE THIS HELPS IN SOME WAY... THINK I'M ABOUT READY FOR THAT FIRST COLD BEER, AYE? CHEERS!!!
That is an excellent idea, thanks!You might want to turn your mast over. The gooseneck has been putting stress on one section of the mast for a lot of years. Taking the caps off and flipping the tube will put the load in a new section.
The mast step integrity is an easy one. Fill it with water, and if the water level stays "topped up" overnight, it's OK.I've been sailing my Sunfish on Lake Ontario for about 15 years, often in very rough conditions, so my boat has taken a good pounding. I am conscious of the stresses on the mast and the cleats and in reading the forum I was alarmed to learn that the cleats are backed up by wooden blocks. Based on what I've read on this forum, my boat was manufactured between '72 and 87. I need to see if I can find the serial number. My boat doesn't appear to leak, but I haven't weighed it.
Any comments or opinions on the following would be greatly appreciated:
- What are the typical failure points?
- Any thoughts as to how I might test the integrity of the wooden blocks?
- How about the mast hole / step?
- Bonding of the foam blocks?
These seemed like questions that would have been asked before, but I wasn't able to find answers. If so, I apologize.
Thanks!
The inspection port is another good suggestion. I'm not aware of the interior mast sleeve. Will it be visible when I pull the caps off?An inspection port a bit aft of the splash guard would allow a peak at the mast step and the structural foam.
You would also find out whether the hull is dry (or not) and inspect some of the backer blocks.
And following up on Charles' concern, masts do break; I don't know if a boat that old has the interior sleeve.
I will do that, thanks.The mast step integrity is an easy one. Fill it with water, and if the water level stays "topped up" overnight, it's OK.
So I wouldn't have the mast sleeve, but if I did then I wouldn't want to turn the mast over -- unless the sleeve can be pulled out and moved to the other end.Mast sleeves have only been around about 15 years. Some racers were able to bend their masts in heavy air so the sleeve was added at the gooseneck.
If the foam blocks detach you’ll hear your hull pounding more, but it isn’t a safety or durability issue. The hull flexes a bit more which bothers racers but it’s nothing that will cause more damage or a failure.
Adding the mast cleat makes a lot of sense, and that way I won't have to worry about the wood block behind the halyard cleat.Currently your rig is trying to push the mast through the bottom of your mast tube and putting strain on the halyard cleat. Put on a mast cleat. This stops the push on the mast tube and now the deck cleat is used to hold the rig to the hull.
just be sure to still run the halyard to the deck cleat after using the mast cleat. Otherwise, if you flip, the mast will fall out of the boat!Adding the mast cleat makes a lot of sense, and that way I won't have to worry about the wood block behind the halyard cleat.
I know that, but thanks for the reminder. That could certainly ruin a good sailing day!just be sure to still run the halyard to the deck cleat after using the mast cleat. Otherwise, if you flip, the mast will fall out of the boat!
There is one sure way to find out...If the spars and mast are capped and sealed, would that provide enough buoyancy to keep the rig afloat?
Wouldn't the mainsheet still be attached at the bridle?
It's been my experience that the emergency takes care of lowering the sail!
What exactly is this mast cleat? The only thing I know of is a little cleat attached to the deck on the starboard side of the mast.
You have to buy a second one, and attach it (yourself) to the mast.So it appears that I don't know how to properly rig at all... Lol
Is there a link for rigging a sailfish with this incorporated?
Anything else is not legal for racing, and could result in an arrest and a fine (not to exceed $250).