Size of backing blocks?

T

tomj

New Member
I'm going to be upgrading an old sunfish, which is unfortunately located at my parent's (boarded-up) summer home--so I won't be able to inspect it until I get there. While I can bring some hand tools to work with, I won't have access to a my shop or anything like that so I need to bring everything I'll need.

I'm planning on installing: (a) a new-style rudder; (b) a ratchet block; (c) hiking straps, all of which will require backing plates, correct? In addition, after I install access ports I'm going to inspect the existing backing plates on the existing deck hardware and replace them if needed.

So questions:

Aluminum or wood (teak)? I'm leaning toward aluminum.

Can anyone specify the size of the backing blocks I'll need? I can drill them on site, but it won't be easy to cut aluminum to size.

Thanks!!!
 
Vanguard makes a nice aluminum back-up plate for the new stainless steel rudder gudgeon fitting. Annapolis Performance Sailing sells them. You will need to install an inspection port on the stern centered about 2" forward of the transom to access the area where the back up plate needs to be positioned. Bad news - the plate and stainless steel machine mounting screws are pricey - good news, sell the old bronze and brass deck hardware on this Forum or ebay for about $40 - $50.

You will also need to install another deck inspection port (suggest 6") centered between the forward end of the dagger board trunk opening and the aft "v" of the splashrail. Epoxy a fairly large (say 6" x 6" piece of alum. plate to the forward edge of the cockpit tub down low and then install a s.s. eye to the plate to secure the forward end of the hiking strap. For the other end, you can get away with attaching a s.s. eye with s.s. steel machine screws through the lip of the cockpit tub going into the aft storage compartment with
a s.s. back-up plate on the after side of the lip OR if you have no storage compartment, install an inspection port on the after edge of the tub and proceed as mentioned for the forward end.

There is space to machine screw an s.s. eye to the deck to attach a ratchet block and stand up spring between the after edge of the dagger board slot and the edge of cockpit lip - just use large s.s. washers for back up or an alum. plate in the under side of the cockpit lip.

Good luck with the retrofit - all good upgrades. Access to power (for a drill, sabre saw etc.) would be a plus. Check the FAQ on this side for inspection port installation tips.

Alan Glos
Cazenovia.NY
 
Alan,
Thanks for the reply; it was very helpful. Sounds like I'll need to install a third inspection port on the after end of the tub for the hiking strap installation. I guess you can't reach the after end of the tub from the inspection port farther aft, installed for the rudder installation. How small an inspection port can I get away with in the tub? Does 4" sound about right?
 
Tomj,

Unless your arms are about 5 feet long, you can't reach the inside of the after end of the cockpit tub from the forward deck mounted inspection port. You might get away with mounting one 6" port on the vertical side of the cockpit tub but there may be internal foam inthe way of reaching fore and aft to install the hiking strap eye back-up plates. So I would opt for installing a 4" port on the after end of the tub to gain access for installing the back up plate at the base of the tub. I am assuming that your hull does not have the underdeck storage compartment aft of the tub and that you have a vertical surface to work with. If you do have the storage compartment, you might be able to screw thru the bottom lip of the compartment and attach the eye strap or even just drill two holes through the lip and put a line thru the holes to attach the after end of the strap without the eye fitting (just be sure to goop holes so they don't leak water into the interior) My guess is that some folks would not favor this last idea but I have seen it done. Comments?

Alan Glos
 
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