Shrouds and turnbuckle WLLs

Thread starter #1
Hi All,
I recently bought a 14.2 and am re-rigging it. I would like turnbuckles on the side shrouds but have two problems: 1) They are expensive; 2) I am cheap.

Catalindirect don't offer this option for the 14.2, and I'm thinking of making up the shrouds myself, probably at West Marine--seems easy enough. But in terms of WLL (working load limit) of the turnbuckles, I'm wondering about the range of possibilities. The higher the WLL, the more expensive, of course.

The current shrouds are 3/32", but I've read stories online of them breaking. I don't want to go so cheap that I run the risk of a de-masting, especially as my boat has a fixed keel, and I plan to do some heavy weather sailing.

West Marine's 3/32" wire (only available in SS 304) has a break point of 1050 lbs. There is also the consideration of maybe going to 1/8" shroud wire with around 1780 lb break point (WLL is evidently calculated at 40% of break point). I suppose I should match the WLL of the turnbuckles I choose to the WLL of the shroud wire I choose.

I guess, to be safe, I could go for the 1/8'' with turnbuckles rated at around 3200 breaking strain, which would run close to $200 for the whole shebang.

I am wondering if anyone has gone this route, and if anyone else has tried to determine the load placed on the side shrouds of a 14.2 in a decent blow. I'm guessing it is a lot more than 200lb, but probably less than 1000, but I could be barking up the wrong tree entirely.

I'm fairly certain you won't find a definitive anticipated load for the standing rigging anywhere for this boat, or any other. there's just too many potential variables involved. 3/32 is the stock size and has been quite adequate for this boat if it's in good condition. it seems like when you read the fine print of most de-mastings stories, there's always some mention of "original shrouds in good condition" or "just changed them 10 years ago and they still looked fine" etc. when rigging becomes compromised it's virtually always in the area of the swage where it really can't be inspected, so if it's over 5-6 years old (less in salt water conditions), or there's any question in your mind at all, change them. it's cheep insurance in the long run.
As to turnbuckles…. I don't see the need for them on the 14.2 myself, but if you do, then get some rated at least as high as the cable you use to build the rigging and your golden.
Great choice on a boat BTW. as long as your sails are in good condition, and not blown out, you'll find it an awesome sailing craft.

Thread starter #3
Thanks Russ-- good info. It's interesting to hear that swaging can cause problems.
I'm having a new set of sails made by Ullman in Ventura. Can't speak highly enough of Gray Swenson, the head designer. I'll post pics when they arrive. I expect I'll have a grand time.
two bad things happen at the location of the swage. there's a concentration of stress on the cable right at the edge of the swage crimp and each time the mast goes up or down works this area of the cable even more. the other problem is that moisture gets trapped in the swage area and can create corrosion down inside where it's hard to detect. it's hard to resist placing shrink tubing over the junction of the swage and cable, but this just holds moisture in there that much more, providing good reason to not use vinyl coated cable.
My new Ullman sails are due in March as well. cool! life is too short to sail with crappy sails. ;)