Salt buildup and removal

jakeeper

jakeeper
My drain plug is completely frozen, and now I have a ding in my gel coat where the screwdriver slipped. Any advice on salt disolving products and/or methods??? I already have all of the surface salt off with diluted Simple green, and elbow grease.
 
Jake,

I have not found a way to remove or disolve the salt/corrosion that is in the threads of the drain or bailer. If you look carefully at the drains trim ring, there are 2 pins on oposite sides to keep the ring from turning when the plug is turned. If you carefully drive the pins in with a small punch, you can then work a stiff putty knife under the ring and pry the plug assembly out. APS lists the whole Metal Drain Plug Assembly, p/n V79024 for about $26. A cheaper alterative is the plastic assembly p/n R2066 ($4.30) or p/n HA323 ($3.35) but then the hole would have to be enlarged for the new assembly (a Dremel tool with sanding drum works well for this). The plastic does have the advantage of not corroding in salt water. Alternately you could leave the plug closed and install an inspection port behind the splashguard for water removal as the original plug is very small and does get plugged up with stuff (dirt/styro beads) and does not drain the hull very well.
 
I recently read in the sunfish_sailor Yahoo Groups page of someone who successfully broke the corrosion.

The new plastic drains work a little quicker (when there's enough wind) than the metal ones, but they have that annoying tab that is extremely easy to kick open and have water leak in on those lighter days when you'd rather keep your feet dry. Then you're stuck with 6" of water and no way to get rid of it unless you carry a bailer/sponge.

I would give my I-teeth to get my hands on a functioning old metal Sunfish screw-type bailer! If you can get it to turn, you'll be way ahead! The holes in it drain, well enough (again as long as there's enough wind) and you can positively screw it closed or screw it open so you know how it's set. No kicking it open by accident.

I've done simple replacements of the plastic one into the hole from a metal one and have not had to drill out the hole.

If after much patience and penetrating product you really can't get it to turn, a Dremel tool is the best cutting device for getting it out. However, that does destroy it. Good luck.
 
I recently read in the sunfish_sailor Yahoo Groups page of someone who successfully broke the corrosion.

The new plastic drains work a little quicker (when there's enough wind) than the metal ones, but they have that annoying tab that is extremely easy to kick open and have water leak in on those lighter days when you'd rather keep your feet dry. Then you're stuck with 6" of water and no way to get rid of it unless you carry a bailer/sponge.

I would give my I-teeth to get my hands on a functioning old metal Sunfish screw-type bailer! If you can get it to turn, you'll be way ahead! The holes in it drain, well enough (again as long as there's enough wind) and you can positively screw it closed or screw it open so you know how it's set. No kicking it open by accident.

I've done simple replacements of the plastic one into the hole from a metal one and have not had to drill out the hole.

If after much patience and penetrating product you really can't get it to turn, a Dremel tool is the best cutting device for getting it out. However, that does destroy it. Good luck.

If you're looking for a old drain check out ebay item #250149694125
 

Back
Top