rudder performance

In a word YES! The board has IIRC at least a 4 inch longer length and better flow. Race without it and be prepared to see a LOT of sterns.
 
I think you should clarify what you mean by "new plastic rudder blade". Are you talking about the fiberglass blade that comes with the Sunfish Pro? If that is the case, there is next to no difference in performance between it and a well kept wood blade.

I believe Mike is talking about a different blade. There is a group of class members/officers that were tasked with exploring the development of a new rudder design. There are currently several prototypes of this blade for class members to try. These prototypes usually show up at the "major" regattas. However, this rudder is definitely NOT class legal at this time and cannot be used in races.
 
I think you should clarify what you mean by "new plastic rudder blade". Are you talking about the fiberglass blade that comes with the Sunfish Pro? If that is the case, there is next to no difference in performance between it and a well kept wood blade.

I believe Mike is talking about a different blade. There is a group of class members/officers that were tasked with exploring the development of a new rudder design. There are currently several prototypes of this blade for class members to try. These prototypes usually show up at the "major" regattas. However, this rudder is definitely NOT class legal at this time and cannot be used in races.
 
Oops, I'm so used to seeing/talking about daggerboard that my brain reads that when ever the word plastic comes up. Derek is correct. The "new" plastic dagger board is a copy of the wooden one. Currently nothing has been done with changing the shape or mounting angle.
 
Mike....what are you drinking....I want some:D

What Mike meant to say is that the new plastic rudder blade is an exact copy of the wood rudder blade.

Now, there are those in the class that like to tweak the leading and trailing edges of the wooden blades within the class rules. You would not be able to do that on the plastic one as you would grind through the skin. Would stroking out the edges really make a difference???? I think at the very top of the class (where stupid mistakes are probably less frequent) you might see a minor difference. Do I think Eduardo (using out of the box stuff) could smoke anybody with a fully stroked out, wetsanded, polished binford model stuff....absolutely. In short, the nut on the end of the tiller makes the most difference.
 
Thanks, I've restored an old Sunfish which I hope to race some. I have the new board. My rudder blade looks a little warped and so I've considered sanding it back to flat or buying a new wood blade or buying a new plastic blade. I'm not expecting or to be in the silver at any of the few regattas I hope to sail, but I would like to make it to a big regatta sometime in the next couple of years(Masters or something, I'm old enough)(IF the NA's are in Erie in 2008 I'll definately want to be there). It would be fun to be at least in the middle of the pack.

This forum is a wonderful thing.

Thanks for the help.
 

I would recommend the Fiberglass blade. Buy it and be done with it.

I see the new Fiberglass rudder as a “Long term maintenance” upgrade rather then a “Performance” upgrade. As Derek said the performance difference between a well built woody and a well maintained plastic blade is minimal. The new fiberglass blade was designed to eliminate some of the problems that have plagued the rudder seemingly forever (or at least since 72’). The plastic blade won’t split or warp and requires almost no maintenance. Best of all it comes out of the box ready to perform (you should probably give it a quick wet sand but that’s about it).

Good Luck with which ever you choose and I hope to see in Erie in 08’
 
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