Replacing clue fairlead

F

forg3

New Member
I have an older (really old) laser and the screw came out of the fairlead furthest from the end of the boom. Upon examination of the holes in the boom, the hole furthest from the end of the boom appears to be way to large to except the same size screw as used in the fairlead closer to the end of the boom. So the question is how do I repair this? Any solutions would be highly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

forg3
 
Not sure exactly which thing you're talking about, but all my boom hardware is held on with rivets - and since mine is a 1976 model I assume they've always been that way
 
the aft most fairlead on the boom should be attached with screws... I would just go up a size in the screw. OR.... rivets do work better because they will fit the size of the hole. Only problem is if you want to change the fairlead the rivet would have to be drilled out, not simply unscrewed..
 
Drilling out rivits isn't that hard, a little dangerous, but not hard. A rivet will last longer that a screw, and it can't unscrew itself. I have had several screw unscrew themselves, so now I use rivets whenever I can.
 
Or if the holes really are knackered then bolt it. I have seen this done a few times (you just need to get the end cap out which usually destroys it). Either that or find someone who has a broken top section and offer them a beer or 2 for it and make yourself a new boom. This has been documented well in this forum and is a relatively simple task. The hardest part is getting the sleeve for where to vang attachment rivets in the right place.
 
Below you will find a link to some pics I posted this past May. What you are interested are the bottom pics. As was mentioned above, you want to through-bolt the fairlead regardless of the condition of the hole. Notice that I said hole and not holes. This is because the after hole on the fairlead must still be riveted. This rivet holds both the fairlead and the boom endcap in place. It is a special length, and the easiest way to get one is to order it from APS. Notice the technique I used to get the rivet tight. Also, if the after hole is in rough shape, don't worry about it. The endcap will take up the force - which isn't all that much. Whatever you put in the forward hole does 99% of the work. This is why you want to thru-bolt. If you need a new endcap and don't want to buy a blue one, I think Intensity Sails might have them in black. If you're going to go through all this, you might as well break down and buy a new fairlead too.

If memory serves, you will need a # 8 or 10 stainless screw for the forward hole but you better check that. It is also best to use a fender washer on the inside to spread out the load. You will need to beat this with a hammer to curve it so it will conform to the inside of the boom. I think I have a pic of that and I can post it if you need to see the concept. Most importantly, get some Lanocoat and smear it on the inside and on the washer. The reason the holes get big is a combination of the force on the old rivet as well as the galvanic corrosion caused by the interaction of aluminum, stainless steel and seawater. The lanocoat will greatly reduce this problem. Lastly, make sure you use a lock washer and some loc-tite and you'll never have to worry about it again.

Hope this helps.


http://www.laserforum.org/nuts-bolts-rivets-boom-t9018.html?t=9018&highlight=bolt+boom
 
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