Replacement boom blocks

Martz

Martz

Member
Hi guys,

Looking at some replacement boom blocks...

Anyone tried the Harken T2 or Ronstan Orbits as boom blocks??
 
If you want your boat to stay class legal you can only use the class approved Harken set up (ball bearing) or the Holt set up.
 
Anything that will fit is the answer.

Most people here will use the class approved blocks so it is unlikely you will get anyone with experience of anything but.
 
What are you hoping to achieve here Martz ?
A cooler look ? A frictionless action ? Modernising ?
 
I doubt you could fit anything that would perform significantly better than the latest legal Harken bb blocks, so why look for anything different? I've just fitted a set of these - they work superbly and a nice upgrade from the original std ones.
 
Thanks Andy.

Are there any markings on the old/new style blocks so I can determine which ones I have?
 
If they are blue with a simple roller inside, they are the old style. If they are black with ball bearings inside the wheel and a metal reinforcement inside the hanging eye, they are the new type.
 
Here's a pic of the new style blocks: Front boom block, the all-in-one traveller and the end of boom block
541.jpg
 
Apologies for the hijacking....
Just thought this may help anyone about to do the block change or overwinter maintenance.

Couple of things I have and haven't read I thought people should at least be aware of, follow or don't but at least have the luxury of knowing.
I haven't heard anyone mention MONEL rivets, there's a big surge on bolt everything but unless you're 100% on preventing seawater ( or even certain rainwater ) bridging between your steel and ali' and drying out, your spar will slowly get eaten.
The steel is a cathode, the ali' is anode.
Monel rivets are designed for our toys, the bulb of metal will not eat your spar unlike a fat stainless washer.

I was taught to drill rivets in two stages,
1st bit is equal dia' to the rivet head, slow drill until it spins off...
2nd bit ( usually a 3/16th bit ) to carefully and precisely follow the core. It's not hard or awkward and only takes around a minute per rivet tbh.
Tapping them out is violent on the ali' and can be imprecise.

Corrosion around your average aged spars' steel fittings - while you're spar is naked it's a perfect time to give it some love.
That flaky bubbling of the ali' skin has to go but you do not want pock marks so they need to be filled.
Chemical metal, same as you'd use on your alloy wheel repairs.

MYLAR...
thin unobtrusive, won't fatigue, your friend. Cut simple mylar gaskets, mark them out, pierce them appropriately, position, rivet. Good for donkeys years, unlike the zinc chromate which will get washed out.

Also, if you have a boom sleeve already fitted ( you will know as soon as you de-rivet the kicker key fitting ), use the sleeve to remove your gooseneck plug...not screwdrivers or pliers or spanners etc...
De-rivet the gooseneck plug.
Simply gently tilt the whole spar vertical ( gooseneck up ) the sleeve will slide to the clew, then spin in 180 so the sleeve neatly but with slight force, knocks the plug out for you.. May take eight or so tries but it's so neat n easy.
Look, is mine destroyed ?
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