Removing Deck

stevo_sails_up

stevo_sails_up

New Member
Ok, I just joined here today, seems like a good forum and I could use some help with the laser I bought last summer. I got this laser for really really cheap but its REALLY old, sail number in the 4000's (can't remember it off the top of my head and it's at home while I'm at school). Anyway, very old boat and the guy that had it before me cut inspection ports and removed all the rotten buoyancy foam. There is still some in there and I would like to get it out and replace it with buoancy bags or some such device. Also I would like to replace all the backing wood inside as it is starting to go rotten. Everything is in really great shape except the wood and buoyancy and I am not afraid of a big job as my last boat I did some MAJOR fiberglass work and, not to sound full of myself, did a pretty decent job (comments from a guy that actually used to BUILD boats). So long story short, I've heard its really common for people to simply remove the deck and do all the necesary work but as this is a big job and i don't know anyone that has done it before I was wondering if anyone can give me some general step by steps. If anyone can help that would be GREAT, otherwise I will probably just start going at the deck joint with a putty knife and gently working it all apart. THANKS!
 
Yup, it's a big job. In addition to the hull deck joint (A dremel will make that job a lot easier), you will need to free the deck from the hull at the bottom of the mast tube , the top of the daggerboard trunk and possibly the bottom of the cockpit (I say possibly as I'm not sure that was bonded to the floor in the very early boats, and even if it was, by now there is a good chance that all the filler has cracked and is no longer actually bonding the two together) The hull w/o the deck is pretty flimsy, you might consider putting it inside a jig while the deck is off so the shape doesn't change too much...
 
I forgot to add that you'll need to break it apart at the drain opening at the aft end of the cockpit (if it hasn't already come apart there as well)
 
Hi,

I own 4606, and owned 1041. Both got major repairs without splitting them, including removing the foam blocks, etc. There are workarounds to almost all of the problems you might have, that can be done thru the ports, such as mast step work, and putting nuts/washers on highly loaded fittings. Search on each topic for old forums, as all have been discussed.

The mast step wood is the most critical. Most of the other wood is glass encased marine plywood, and thus not much more likely to be rotten than the glass enclosed foam in the decks, cockpit sole, and the hull stringers.

But, if you happen to have a lot of time, and 200+ c-clamps, well then go ahead, and send pics :) I'd guess the c-board trunk would be the hardest, as it's in a dry place, thus probably still strong.

Or maybe I'll trade you a good hull for the 200 c-clamps and two gallons of WEST? Just kidding...

Al Russell 182797
 
Those pictures are a great help, I might rethink this job now. However I am still worried. You see, before i bought the boat it had not been sailed since probably 1995 if not longer. As any good boat owner would do the fellow mothballed it by putting it upside down in the back yard with all of the access panels taken out. The problem is that he has alot of pine trees, and squirrels, in his back yard (can you see where this story is going?). Anyway, the squirrels completely packed the boat with pinecones ( i saw the pile he had gotten out and i still got two 30 litre buckets out myself) creating somewhat of a decompositing rainforest effect inside the boat and i am worried that it caused some kind of crazy advanced rotting or whatever and as i was not sure what was in there i was rather worried, still am to be honest, though i doubt the mast step and the stringers are affected. Perhaps i will try to come to some other way of fixing my problems. Is there any significant benefit to reattaching the bottom of the cockpit to the hull (im not sure how to tell if it has come apart, the boat seems surprising solid especially for its age and its use, the thing has been used like every day of the summer since it was new with the exception of the last ten years or so)? The drain hole area seems to be still well attached. Anyway, thanks for all the help!
 
Based on what you have said, the first thing I would do if it were mine is to get the remaining "stuff" out of the inside, give the inside a good soapy rinse, followed by another rinse (to get the other stinky "stuff" out), then turn it right side up and either get some blow dryers in it, or get it in a dry room with a de-humidifer going. The potential problem with being deck down is moisture in the foam of the deck, and then freezing/thawing breaking the laminate. If the deck is not spongy soft (press down with your hand, the deck should not depress with 30 lbs of pressure), you are in good shape. As Al mentioned you can get to most of the plywood backing plates removing the deck, with just a few well placed inspection ports.
 
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