I am looking for a good source for rigging lines , packaged or indivual, for my newly restored 1965 Sunfish. Average cost, etc.
Also can you advise as to where to purchase new float balls for the old style bailer?
I have spent a tremendous amount of time on the restoration and really looking forward to sailing her.
Also, what is the ratchet called that takes the place of the bronze pulley. What size and where to purchase. Is this something that a beginner will benefit in the beginning.
If what you are talking about is the located at the base of the mast that is the halyard fairlead and if you are referring to the bronze hook in the cockpit the one choice is the Harken # 2625 carbo block 57mm ratchamatic. If you have not done it yet I would recommend a cleat on the mast for the halyard as this set up takes the strain off of the deck and is less strain on the hull. I would like to see some pictures of your restoration as I have a 1966 hull awaiting restoration.
Hey Minas man...I read where you advised a cleat on the mast for the halyard to relieve the strain on the deck...Seems to me the fairlead and deck cleat setup is what keeps the sailplan attched to the boat in a knockdown. It is early and I'm not sure I am fully awake yet...but...am I missing something?
RHR: You will be pleased to know that you were awake when you wrote your response.
With the halyard tied to the cleat on the mast (recommended), one (still) leads the tail end through the fairlead on the deck prior to securing it to the cleat on the deck.
Loosing the rig just doesn't look very proficient to bystanders
Having a cleat on the mast also allows you to make the (high-wind) Jens adjustment.
Good point. The halyard once cleated to the mast continues on its normal route through the fair-lead and then to the cleat on deck.
Like rhr points out your standing rigging must be attached to the hull in case of upset and this is done with the halyard. The extra cleat on the mast takes the strain of gaffs and sail off of the deck fair-lead and puts the load on the mast and saves all the flexing of the deck at the point of the fair-lead.
Pretty much my suggestion. But just buy what you really need. Basically, you want a non-stretch halyard and a sheet that's comfortable for your hands. Some people will have a (thinner) sheet for light weather and a thicker one for heavy weather conditions, but there is no need for that in your scenario.
Float balls for the bailer and a ratchet block can also be obtained from APS.
You will also need a stand-up spring for the block and hardware to mount it.
And yes, a block is recommended even for beginners. It makes handling the wind easier (sheeting out and sheeting in). Not required, just recommended
I did buy a block, not the ratchet type..just a plain style and included the spring to make it stand up. I didn't like the way it worked with the spring so I removed the spring. I'm not sure why the spring is needed. Maybe just to keep the block from scratching the area around it when it flops to and fro?
I did buy a block, not the ratchet type..just a plain style and included the spring to make it stand up. I didn't like the way it worked with the spring so I removed the spring. I'm not sure why the spring is needed. Maybe just to keep the block from scratching the area around it when it flops to and fro?
I didn't like the spring either - it seemed WAY too tight, so much so that the block wouldn't be able to pivot when I tacked. for a cleat, I followed Wayne's advice, and mounted a standard cam cleat on the lip of the cockpit.