I am going to install a Harken 241 swiveling cam cleat base and will need a backing plate on the inside which is not supplied or hinted at by Harken. What has worked for those of you who have installed one? I plan to install a cockpit 5" access port on the left side to assist in the installation on a pristine 1970 boat. Also installing a hiking strap which will also need a backing plate I bet.
Ratchet block backing plate
- Thread starter mcgillic
- Start date
[email protected]
Member
I agree with Fred. Fender washers work great. Just last night I re-installed the eye thingys for the traveler. I had to dig out a little interior foam to access the under side of the screws to put the washers/nuts on. There wasn't enough room for all the fingers necessary to install washers and nuts. I remembered being in the pits at a nascar race, watching a guy glue lug nuts onto wheels. Bingo...using hot glue, I glued the lock nuts onto the fender washers and it worked like a champ. I was able to balance the assembly on the tip of one finger, position them and turn the screw from the top. Easy as pie.
By the way, you do not need to install an inspection port to put the Harken on. All the screws should go thru the deck in the lip area of the cockpit that overhangs the cockpit. None should go into the hull.
You can install both the strap and the Harken without an inspection port. Insert the screws for the Harken thru the deck, and put on the fender washers as mentioned above. But before putting on the nuts, put on an eyestrap with the eye pointing down into the cockpit. Then put on the nuts. Tie one end of the hiking strap to the eyestrap, and tie the aft end to a pair of eyestraps bolted to the lip of the storage compartment.
Chris
You can install both the strap and the Harken without an inspection port. Insert the screws for the Harken thru the deck, and put on the fender washers as mentioned above. But before putting on the nuts, put on an eyestrap with the eye pointing down into the cockpit. Then put on the nuts. Tie one end of the hiking strap to the eyestrap, and tie the aft end to a pair of eyestraps bolted to the lip of the storage compartment.
Chris
Thanks Chris; Is the front "lip" large enough on a 1970 boat? It doesn't have a storage compartment. I'm unsure what a large fender washer is since the 4 bolt holes on the Harden are only 1" apart.
Yes, back in the day I had a boat with that Harken base, and all four screws fit on the accessible part of the lip. We did not use fender washers, but something a bit smaller. You will probably have to fiddle some to get the eyestrap under there, but it will save putting in an inspection port. Given your boat is a '70, you will need a port to access the aft part of the cockpit to install an eyestrap and backing plate. I will recommend that the eyestrap go low on the back wall, so the strap will run from high in the front to low in the back.
Chris
Chris
beldar boathead
Married to Primat Boathead
I don't think there is room for four fender washers under there. Use the biggest washers you can, but I had a setup like this once, and used fairly small washers with no problem. That fiberglass is pretty darn strong! You might be able to fit two fender washers and two smaller washers - not sure - but you should be fine with whatever will fit under there. BB
L&VW
Well-Known Member
I have an assortment of stainless steel washers, and only the largest would I call a "fender-washer"—and it won't fit in that location.
I'm using teeny-tiny washers, but I don't think the problem is having the Harken pull out. The problem my used Sunfish had (when I bought it) was the boat had been dropped on the Harken—upside-down—and the gelcoat got spider-cracked from that.
The Harken is still not showing any signs of pulling out from the deck. I've found that a ¼-inch "socket-driver" with the correct socket makes easy work of re-installation after storage of the Sunfish each season.
I'm using teeny-tiny washers, but I don't think the problem is having the Harken pull out. The problem my used Sunfish had (when I bought it) was the boat had been dropped on the Harken—upside-down—and the gelcoat got spider-cracked from that.
The Harken is still not showing any signs of pulling out from the deck. I've found that a ¼-inch "socket-driver" with the correct socket makes easy work of re-installation after storage of the Sunfish each season.
ylojelo
Member
I used a block of 1/2" oak, after sealing it with 3 coats of marine varnish. I cut it to fit under the lip. I did this for both my boats ('73 & '74)
I've also heard of using a chunk cut from a plastic cutting board.
I've also heard of using a chunk cut from a plastic cutting board.
minas man
Member
I have posted in the past about using polyethylene cutting boards for backing plates for hardware but will do it again with following reasons.
1- It is stable a material will not rust or rot.
2- comes in thicknesses from 1/8 to 1 inch.
3- can be shaped and worked with woodworking tools, power or hand
4- can be set in caulking for strong permanent mount i.e hiking strap
5- larger areas and irregular shapes can be achieved with out losing strength for multiple hardware mounts and spreading out loads.
6- very strong in all directions with no grain
7- can be used topside or as backing
8- inexpensive when bought at yard sales and thrift shops dollar stores, or as close as your kitchen but remember to replace it with a nice new one or you might here Honey have you seen the cutting board. Shh I won't tell.
Minas Man
1- It is stable a material will not rust or rot.
2- comes in thicknesses from 1/8 to 1 inch.
3- can be shaped and worked with woodworking tools, power or hand
4- can be set in caulking for strong permanent mount i.e hiking strap
5- larger areas and irregular shapes can be achieved with out losing strength for multiple hardware mounts and spreading out loads.
6- very strong in all directions with no grain
7- can be used topside or as backing
8- inexpensive when bought at yard sales and thrift shops dollar stores, or as close as your kitchen but remember to replace it with a nice new one or you might here Honey have you seen the cutting board. Shh I won't tell.
Minas Man
ylojelo
Member
In the off road world, I've see cutting boards used as skid plates under Jeeps (in areas that don't generate excessive heat)I have posted in the past about using polyethylene cutting boards for backing plates for hardware but will do it again with following reasons.
1- It is stable a material will not rust or rot.
2- comes in thicknesses from 1/8 to 1 inch.
3- can be shaped and worked with woodworking tools, power or hand
4- can be set in caulking for strong permanent mount i.e hiking strap
5- larger areas and irregular shapes can be achieved with out losing strength for multiple hardware mounts and spreading out loads.
6- very strong in all directions with no grain
7- can be used topside or as backing
8- inexpensive when bought at yard sales and thrift shops dollar stores, or as close as your kitchen but remember to replace it with a nice new one or you might here Honey have you seen the cutting board. Shh I won't tell.
Minas Man
L&VW
Well-Known Member
I'm using teeny-tiny washers, but I don't think the problem is having the Harken pull out. The problem my used Sunfish had (when I bought it) was the boat had been dropped on the Harken—upside-down—and the gelcoat got spider-cracked from that.
Quoting myself, here—and I've since thought of a "fix" to prevent spider-cracking from occurring there again. The next time I install my Harken, I'll put a thin strip (1/8") of rubbery gasket material to absorb some of the shock.
minas man
Member
Seems to me that you would want to stiffen the area where the spider cracks are occurring and not put a backing plate that will in able the hardware to work and by work I mean move causing more gel coat cracks.
With the use of a plastic cutting board it becomes like a large washer and we call it a backing plate and your little washers are there only to transfer the seating power of the nut to the cutting board.
The fiberglass of the boat is flexible enough to take any non abusive shock and backing plates, whether plastic, metal or wood, spread the hardware load and keep fasteners from pulling through hull.
Minas Man
With the use of a plastic cutting board it becomes like a large washer and we call it a backing plate and your little washers are there only to transfer the seating power of the nut to the cutting board.
The fiberglass of the boat is flexible enough to take any non abusive shock and backing plates, whether plastic, metal or wood, spread the hardware load and keep fasteners from pulling through hull.
Minas Man