Q's deck plates, hiking strap, mainsheet block, halyard cleat -- gearing up

[Petrel]

Hi all,

Now that it's stopped raining 24/7 for months, and Labor Day is approaching, I'm getting my fish ready to sail.

I've looked over a lot of past threads (unfortunately, some of the photos cannot be accessed for some reason), and I _think_ I've got some of the issues squared away, but just want to recheck before exchanging or buying gear.

1. Inspection Ports or Deck Plates: I haven't put any in yet. My SF is a '73 that is in very good shape, nice gel coat and so on, but with only The Hook. There is no hiking strap. No inspection ports (maybe I don't need any?). I do NOT plan on racing, but once I get used to the SF, would like to go fast and wet the gunwale. From what I've read here, I don't need to have any inspection port to install a mainsheet block, just get some ss washers and mount it on the tub rim? I think I might want to _keep_ the hook because it's already there & I will find some use for it (like the stop loop idea). If I keep the Hook, can I still mount the block to the lip, or do I need to have it centered and thus mount it elsewhere? Is there room for both the Hook and a block? I don't want to gash my knee on the thing, maybe I can rig up a little cushy cover for it.

I was going to install 5" inspection ports and bought some at a Vanguard-oriented shop. But I'm having second thoughts about the transparent (dark) caps, especially if I mount any on deck. I can imagine how grungy they might look over time. If deck mounted they will look like black holes. The white ones I've seen only come in 4" and 6" and I already have 2 of the 6" and a 4" in white. Do I need just one port for drying out or attaching a block or a hiking strap?


2. Main sheet block: I'm guessing that with my default shoulder sore, I am going to want a nice ratchet block. I read some of the arguments for and against using a jam cleat with it and will likely opt for just the ratchet block. The types of blocks confuse me a bit, like the practical differences between the Harkin 019 and the Harkin 2625. (And I'm not sure what the other number means, e.g. HA 019 2.25, so please tell me what the second value refers to and do I need to pay attention to that? I don't have much money to spend (who does), but at the same time, want to only install once, buy once and enjoy (who doesn't).

Because of my puny arm muscles and chronically sore shoulder. I'm _THINKING_ of getting the setup that NightSailer has with the jam cleat and ratchet block. With another boat, I've sometimes used the jam cleat to "hold" the trimmed sheet while I'm pulling more of it in. But I also appreciate the surprise they can give when you suddenly get a blast of wind (the other boat has just the center sheeting cam cleat w fairlead and I've had a couple of close calls because I really need to adjust or replace the 40 year old jam cleat ) Is this still a bad idea for someone with a problem arm/shoulder and skimpy muscles?

And, do I want to get a standup spring, yes? Do both HA 019 and HA 2625 swivel (me want)? What other parts do I need to get for it? (I'm a long trip from Sunfish stores and prefer to shop brick and mortar versus mail.)

3. Hiking Strap: Any recommended type? The Boathouse in Falmouth had a hiking strap, ?dark red) and I don't know if it was for SF or one of their other Vanguard lines. I guess it was SF. Is that one okay? What sort of hardware or backing and where does it attach? How many and what size Inspection Ports do I need to install to put in the hiking strap.
I guess I first need to ask, is a hiking strap a good idea even if one is not going to be racing? I'm a bit concerned that with the slippery deck, I might just slide away.

4. Halyard cleat. A few weeks ago I was perusing the forum and saw some conversation about not using the deck mounted cleat for the halyard. Is this okay if one isn't going to be racing? I'm lazy and cheap and don't want to bother unless there is really a chance I'll yank out my deck with the halyard cleat just from tooling around.

Thanks, folks. This forum is fantastic for information and encouragement.

 

[Zeppo]

I'll address the issue about the hiking strap...... I removed mine, I never used it, I hooked the toes of each foot up, under the lip of the cockpit on the opposite side from where I was sitting. From this position I am able to hike out quite far, certainly far enough to flatten the SF in moderate to low end heavy winds. Obviously your height and weight will affect your decision to go strapless. I am 6ft.1in. and 230lb. ( I also had this paranoia about getting a foot entangled in the hiking strap and then having the SF flip)

 

[Wayne]

I think I might want to _keep_ the hook because it's already there & I will find some use for it (like the stop loop idea). If I keep the Hook, can I still mount the block to the lip, or do I need to have it centered and thus mount it elsewhere? Is there room for both the Hook and a block? I don't want to gash my knee on the thing, maybe I can rig up a little cushy cover for it.

I made a compromise on my boat, I installed a ratchet block and replaced the hook with a cam cleat. In a downward facing position, the cam cleat is only reachable in light wind when I’m not hiked out.

Do I need just one port for drying out or attaching a block or a hiking strap?

I’ll abstain from giving fashion advice about which port would look best. If your boat is watertight and dry, the only moisture that might be present is condensation from ambient humidity. That might present a problem but over many many years. If you want to ventilate as a maintenance precaution you can install a single port. On the deck between the coaming and the daggerboard gives access to potential repair spots. In the front wall of the footwell is more aesthetic, but less functional for internal access.

Main sheet block: I'm guessing that with my default shoulder sore, I am going to want a nice ratchet block. I read some of the arguments for and against using a jam cleat with it and will likely opt for just the ratchet block. The types of blocks confuse me a bit, like the practical differences between the Harkin 019 and the Harkin 2625. (And I'm not sure what the other number means, e.g. HA 019 2.25, so please tell me what the second value refers to and do I need to pay attention to that? I don't have much money to spend (who does), but at the same time, want to only install once, buy once and enjoy (who doesn't).

Ratchet blocks come in two types, manual engagement and automatic. The manual is tripped into ratchet mode by a switch, The automatic senses mainsheet tension and engages at a tension point you pre-set. The manual gives you an option to engage/disengage at different wind strengths depending on your need at the time.

The model number denotes several features, most important is probably the sheave (pulley wheel) size. Each sheave size handles a certain range of mainsheet diameters. You match the Ratchet Block model to the mainsheet size range of your boat.

Examples:
http://www.apsltd.com/c-508-ratchetsautoratchets.aspx

Because of my puny arm muscles and chronically sore shoulder. I'm _THINKING_ of getting the setup that NightSailer has with the jam cleat and ratchet block.

I’m not sure why Night Sailor chose the high-rise swivel base for the cam cleat. Those are designed for sheets mounted low in the cockpit. On a Sunfish with deck level mounting, the cam is difficult if not impossible to disengage when you are hiked out. A higher angle increases the difficulty even more. Maybe he’s 7’+ with the reach of Yao Ming, for most everyone else a low profile swivel base like the H240 is preferred. It takes a little modification with the removal of the fairlead and the installation of an eyestrap in its place. This setup has another advantage, the mainsheet exits the block out of line with and above the cam cleat helping to avoid inadvertent cleating.

And, do I want to get a standup spring, yes? Do both HA 019 and HA 2625 swivel (me want)? What other parts do I need to get for it?

You probably want the standup spring. Other parts will depend on what setup you decide on, subject for another post once you choose.

3. Hiking Strap

My perspective is pretty much that of Zeppo.

4. Halyard cleat. Is this okay if one isn't going to be racing?

If you raise your sail by the book and aren’t tying in a vang with your halyard, I see no need for the strain relief measure.

Setup Manual:
http://www.laserperformance.com/main/images/stories/pdfs/Sunfish/Sunfish(US).pdf

 

[Petrel]

Thanks so much Zeppo and Wayne.
I appreciate your good suggestions or notes from personal experience that you've shared with me.

I don't like my hair in my eyes, and I'm going to guess I won't want to trip over a hiking strap. I think (thanks to you two and your shared sentiments) I will forgo the hiking strap for now at least. Since I've never sailed a SF but only my "cooler" as ? member used to precisely call it, I probably should be conservative. I will not put a hiking strap in now. I'll probably put at least one inspection port for ventilation (even if I may trade up later, I'm of the opinion that I should do what's good for me AND good for the longevity and well being of the vessel. (SF is a vessel, oh yeah.)

I'll hold off on the mast cleat for the halyard as well. I am not planning on racing or super-fitting the craft with a vang or such. A vang is a nice thing when on the right sailboat (like a daysailer), but I don't want to overreach the intended design and engineering here. I like to heel and put the gunwale in the water, but I don't plan on sailing a taught and highly tensioned rig.

As for the ratchet block. I'll do standup (commedian?), and will have to explore what is a good tradeoff.

The inspection ports only cost $13 each and are clear plastic lids, not grey. Not sure if I will keep them but noticed on the site sunfishsailboats that they had WHITE 5" inspection ports / deck plates. (Are you reading me, Nightsailer?). I may just keep them because I am lazy about returning things. I like buying from brick and mortar because I can touch and feel it and I may want to FEEL the nice YALE rope rather than just read about it. I got some YALE rope (line after it's been installed). I found the clerk at Theboathouse in falmouth, ME helpful. They didn't have a -Lot- lot of SF parts, but enough. They seem to sell a lot of Laser, Vanguard and Opti stuff. Still, the clerk was organized and helpful. I like people. Contrast this to a canoe place in Canada I wrote to about some parts via email/website mail. Nada. No response.

I'll keep reading the archives about the ratchet blocks.

Thanks for your help!