I don't think you can patch the little dings and be happy with the results, so if you want to make the deck look pretty, you will probably want to repaint. Signal Charlie (Kent Lewis) is the resident expert on repainting Sunfish decks and hulls and even has videos you can view on the surface prep and roll and tip technique to get a good paint job. I think these videos are all on You Tube - just search You Tube for "Kent Lewis, Sunfish" and they should pop up. Consider taking the splash rail off before painting - it makes the job a lot easier and it is easy to reattach with the stainless pan head screws shown in your photo.
Kent - if you see this, chime in.
Alan Glos
Cazenovia, NY
The "GH Criterion" is what we used to call "The 50-Foot Rule".You're crazy to paint it! Sail it and have fun!
Go through this Decision Making Matrix from our blog and decide if you WANT to paint it.
So we have tips that will help you get over a some boat builder questions, like, 1) Staring at the part that you are working on and trying to decide if it meets someone's arbitrary universal standard, and/or 2) Making a mistake and trying to decide if it needs to be fixed (or painted in your case).
Here are the criteria we use.
Galloping Horse (GH) Criteria:
I think I should have left the splashguard on! Mine doesn’t have rivets, but stainless pan head screws. There was no evidence of metal rivnuts behind them when I removed the screws, just 2 plastic anchors.The rivet nuts (rivnuts) are metal and require a special rivet gun tool. Rivnuts
If most of your rivets are good you could go with a plastic anchor for a few of them, field expedient repair. Don't tell anyone
As for the canoe, she'll get a Flying Tigers paint job.
View attachment 28243
That "loaner-Sunfish" that became a gift to me from a neighbor? Their boys had knocked the splashguard off—not once, but twice!I think I should have left the splashguard on! Mine doesn’t have rivets, but stainless pan head screws. There was no evidence of metal rivnuts behind them when I removed the screws, just 2 plastic anchors.
In another thread it said the rivnut tool plus rivets was $100. I think I’ll skip the tool and try plastic mollies similar to what was there.
I’ve got fairing putty and will hit a couple of spots. Confession: I am NOT priming, just painting with Easypoxy Fire Red. I know many will say “do it right” with primer but it has been my experience that the primer is expensive, time consuming, most is sanded off and the paint sticks just fine without it, especially if I let it ‘bake’ for a couple weeks in the sun afterwards.
Thanks! Temps were in the low 70’s, low humidity and no rain in the forecast. I started with roll and tip but the first coat had lots a little fibers on the deck from the roller. I used just a good quality brush (no roller) for 2nd and 3rd coats. No thinner. The paint leveled out really well. Still need to attach splashguard, add stripes and put aluminum trim back on, then she’s ready for spring sailing! Tucked in the garage now, next to two other Sunfish, a Sailfish and a Minifish (several others must be left outside, unfortunately)Sheeza looking good! Roll and tip application? Temp applied and any thinner?
I prefer brushing over spraying, as it attracts and removes more mosquitoes from the area.This wasn't sprayed but brushed? It looks amazing, like brand new... love the red!
Ironically, the outer fasteners take most of the strain of heavy-water sailing; worse, the outer fasteners are the first to snag on lines (or lawns during Hurricane Irma).I decided it was better to glass over the holes where the splashguard was removed. Originally attached with machine screws, but I’m reattaching with the 3/16 rivets. Thanks to search forum and good advice here I also got proper washers for backing the rivets. Next I will drill out the 3/16th holes. But then, how to hold a tiny washer with your arm in the inspection port under the 3/16” hole while carefully squeezing a rivet gun? Nope, this is a two person job!
Also, I can only reach about 6 of the 13 holes, with flotation blocks under the rest. I will use a dab of TotalBoat Seal under each rivet head and run a bead or two under the splashguard. Am I missing something? Is it OK that outer rivets don’t have backing washers? I know there are other methods.. riv-nuts and my original machine screws, but I thought this method was best, and is advised on sunfishsailor files. Any advise or reassurance before I proceed would be welcome! This is my freshly painted Sunfish, I don’t want to screw this up!
Thanks, that should work for the 6 that I can reach. Ok if the others are just bedded but don’t have backers?Glue the washers in with caulk