Porpoise spars / booms, same as a SUNFISH?

Repete

Repete

Sunfish1909
I am looking for a second, used, set of spars for a recreational sail for the kids. I found a Porpoise sail and booms for sail in my state. I have googled and searched here on the forum under "Porpoise and Super Porpoise". I looked at the Sunfish Sailor photo files too. There are comments of the sail rig being "similar" to a Sunfish. I will have the owner send me measurements and pulley locations too. Any insight on this one would be helpful, thanks in advance.
 
Thanks, but no actual description of the rig. Dimensions by phone will solve what this owner has and if I want these spars. This forum is an oracle of information. Thank you.
 
Does it matter?
As long as the sail fits the boom and gaff, you should be able to sail the hybrid. The position of the blocks on a Porpoise boom may be a bit off, but that can be fixed, if necessary. I suppose a Sunfish gooseneck can be made to fit a Porpoise boom.
 
Repete,

The Sunfish spars are 1-1/2" outside diameter x 164" (13'8") long without the caps. If the Porpoise booms are that long or longer (cut it down if you need to) you wont have a problem. If you do reposition the blocks, use stainless steel pop rivets, the aluminum ones will pull out (you can use the aluminum to plug the old holes)
 
My 80's Porpoise II arrived—used—with a black silk screened Sunfish logo on the sail. Spars, gooseneck and blocks appear to be properly located without any repaired holes.

There may be good purpose in seeking insight if the seller's similar sail sports a Sunfish—apropo the proposed Porpoise propulsion. :)
 
I got a super porpoise back in the early 90s (the SP was from the 70s I think). I heavily modified that hull and eventually scrapped it and got a Sunfish hull about 4 years ago. Anyway, I kept the mast, spars and sail, as well as the daggerboard and rudder, which I use on the sunfish now. I love my spars (which are wooden and look cool) and my mahogany rudder. I did have to mount the gudgeon of the Porpoise for the rudder to work, but other than that I had no problem. The mast fit fine. The sail is a bit bigger, but it works fine.
 
I am in the process of replacing the foam inside my Super Porpoise and repairing a major 14" crack across the hull. Can you let me know what you did to the hull and anything I need to avoid. I am also considering replacing the hull if I could find something cheap in need of less repair.

Thanks in Advance,
________
Yamaha YZF1000
 
Make sure you replace the wood blocks inside the hull with rot-resistant wood, like Wolmanized lumber or perhaps even better would be manufactured lumber (made of recycled plastic and sawdust). Do the best you can removing the foam blocks and the "adhesive" foam. My experience is that the stuff they use to attach the foam was easily twice as waterlogged as the block foam. Try to keep the foam blocks as intact as you can in removing, so you can use them as as templates to carve the new ones. When it comes to repairing your crack, all I can say is grind it down to the fiberglass and patch and feather it with new fiberglass. Don't try to just fill the crack with epoxy or something. It needs the glass to be strong.

With my Super Porpoise, I actually made it into something that was more like a wooden boat sharpie than a sunfish. I took the deck off completely, attached wood sides and a wood fore and aft deck with West System epoxy, and an open interior with wood seats and floor grate. I also fit it with oars and it made a great rowboat! That lasted for about three years, but when it was no longer seaworthy, I just found a used sunfish that needed only minor repair. That was a lot less headache than trying to do a major rebuild.

Let me know how it goes, and if you have any other questions.
 
Thanks for the information. Unfortunately, I carved up the supports under the tub before I read the posts about extended drying and your post for a template.

I am now trying to figure out how to create an interior mold for some 4lb 2 part Polyureathane from US composites. I need to replace the two pieces under the tub and one in the front of the boat. My first Idea involved those large tube balloons. Position several of these to create a channel for the foam. Then I thought the expanding foam reaction might get too hot so, I thought maybe I will take my old pool raft cut out individual tubes and fill the tubes full of packing peanuts or wrags or something. to create the channels. If I had correctly sized tubes the foam block would be shaped something like an I beam. After I make the channels, I might cut some small holes in my deck to poor the 2 part Foam. After I poor the foam pull or suck out the filler material. Let me know if you have any better Ideas. I want to maintain the drainage flow through the boat and also not blow the top off during expansion

I saw someone suggested carving the shape desired and then slicing the pieces, putting them in throught the inspection ports and gluing them back together.

The other Idea I had was to cut an inspection hole in the side of the tub and slip in lengthwise slices of foam until the proper height is achieved by foaming them together.

Thanks again for your help.
________
Harley-Davidson FXDB
 
BrainCorrel said:
"...I am now trying to figure out how to create an interior mold for..."
Click to expand...
Y'know, we're not talking about a collector's item here. The structure really should have foam support, but I've done without it. (And I'm pretty mass-enhanced).

What I did is collect a bunch of 2-liter soda bottles, sealed the caps, and stuffed them into the hull through the rear inspection port until they can't be stuffed in any more....I'm still doing the bottle-collecting, because a tenant who used my boat last month thought they shouldn't be there, and tossed them all! :eek: :p :eek: :confused:

While they give little support to the rear deck (where I need it most), you'll not likely be standing on the front Porpoise deck, which is pretty strong anyway.

As for fiberglass repair, it's not rocket science. Do a search here for West® (copy the ®) system, as I've outlined what to do—prior. You'll need sandpaper and disposible brushes, basically.

You already know that expanding foam can break up its mold. I don't recall that it got hot—last time I used it, anyway. (And might get soggy all over again anyway).
 
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