Looking closer, there are fibers on the properly "set" pop-rivets. Since this is a low tension application, the piece can be restored using expanding drywall plugs and wood- or sheet-metal screws. (Or drilling through two dabs of THIXO, but drywall plugs are $22 cheaper )
I probably couldn’t put a shock cord in. I’m not very handy. Unless it’s something super simple that doesn’t need drilling into the boat.What is the number on the upper right on the stern of the boat? You could just use a shock cord which allows adusting the board and it retains the board if you flip.
I tried to put the eye strap back with gorilla but for some reason it wouldn’t fit back into the two holes. The hikes were to close together which makes no sense because it came out of those holes.If you can't fix the eyestrap, just run a 1/8th inch diameter line to the mast.
The OP needs something "super simple", which I understood to mean: no drill, no drill bits, no vise, no pliers, no pop-rivet gun, no rivets, no drywall anchors.Those rivets are deformed and the deck holes probably expanded a bit when they pulled out, then closed back in, small microfractures around the edge of the hole.
The best approach is too drill out the old rivets and reinstall the eyestrap with new rivets.
My '79 has the eyestrap.
My '77 has that eystrap. Not sure if the previous owner added it aftermarket or if it came with it.
My '77 here in NH also has that same eyestrap as my '79.My '77 has that eyestrap. Not sure if the previous owner added it aftermarket or if it came with it.
I find that the eyestrap is mounted way too close to the daggerboard to let me use a bungee to apply tension to the daggerboard to keep it from dropping when raised for reaches or running. I run a bungee all the way from the daggerboard past the mast to the handle on the bow.If you can't fix the eyestrap, just run a 1/8th inch diameter line to the mast.