Painting on a budget
- Thread starter Sailkb
- Start date
L&VW
Well-Known Member
I also did some painting this month, but it turned out disappointing. 
Because bristle brushes show strokes—and I'd forgotten to buy some foam brushes
I tried a "pad". Subsequently each technique (bristle, pad, and foam) has resulted in many annoying ridges in the finish. 
If I continue with this project this month, should I thin the paint?
Would I simply be better off sanding down the ridges with #600 "Wet-or-Dry" sandpaper, and not going for the "gloss" look? Years ago, a dull #600 finish was a "speed secret" among Hobie catamaran racers. With my brand-new Hobie, I was skeptical of that process and never tried it.
Because bristle brushes show strokes—and I'd forgotten to buy some foam brushes
I tried a "pad". Subsequently each technique (bristle, pad, and foam) has resulted in many annoying ridges in the finish. If I continue with this project this month, should I thin the paint?Would I simply be better off sanding down the ridges with #600 "Wet-or-Dry" sandpaper, and not going for the "gloss" look? Years ago, a dull #600 finish was a "speed secret" among Hobie catamaran racers. With my brand-new Hobie, I was skeptical of that process and never tried it.
Sailkb
Member
I also did some painting this month, but it turned out disappointing.
Because bristle brushes show strokes—and I'd forgotten to buy some foam brushes
Would I simply be better off sanding down the ridges with #600 "Wet-or-Dry" sandpaper, and not going for the "gloss" look? Years ago, a dull #600 finish was a "speed secret" among Hobie catamaran racers. With my brand-new Hobie, I was skeptical of that process and never tried it.
I also did some painting this month, but it turned out disappointing.
Because bristle brushes show strokes—and I'd forgotten to buy some foam brushes
Would I simply be better off sanding down the ridges with #600 "Wet-or-Dry" sandpaper, and not going for the "gloss" look? Years ago, a dull #600 finish was a "speed secret" among Hobie catamaran racers. With my brand-new Hobie, I was skeptical of that process and never tried it.
There is an additive you can get at any paint store to put in paint that takes brush strokes out...... I think what I have used on furniture is called Flow. I don't know why it wouldn't work with boat paint. I painted a boat a year ago to sell and after brushing, using a pad, and finally rolling, I still was not totally pleased. I think the way to go is spraying, thus my experiment with spray cans on my current project.
Looks good. I think rustoleum is a good budget decision for a crunchy boat. It will probably scrape off easier, which is a good and bad thing. I have used it on hulls. and it goes on easy and fast. It is not as thick and I don't think it has UV protection. Rustoleum sells a Marine Topside paint also at Lowes, it is about half the price of Interlux..
Have y'all tried roll and tip? Foam roller, good 2-3 inch brush, thin if paint is not flowing well. And also a little thinner for the brush to keep it wet.
Roll and tip our wooden Sunfish
Have y'all tried roll and tip? Foam roller, good 2-3 inch brush, thin if paint is not flowing well. And also a little thinner for the brush to keep it wet.
Roll and tip our wooden Sunfish
Sailkb
Member
Yes. If the paint fades or flakes I'll just have another project next winter. No big deal, and once I'm on the water nobody cares what my boat looks like. And yes, I have tried the foam roller. I think it's a good option. My local sailing store endorses this approach, but IMHO, a good sprayer is the way to do it right.
L&VW
Well-Known Member
Spraying is best; however, my first attempt at spraying the Sunfish hull was outdoors. An undetectable breeze (and warm sun) combined to produce an inconsistent finish that was disappointing considering the expense and time.
There's no "indoors" space here. I didn't mention a couple of things:
1) The last attempt was with a foam roller and,
2) The paint used was Ace Hardware's equivalent of Rustoleum. ($28/gallon).
Within the next week, I'll try the "wet brush" technique (above) with my best brush—and report back.
Reading that again, was that one foam roller ("roll") in combination with one wet brush ("tip")?
You have broken the code! For a nice "beach banger" (as Alan calls them) spray away! I found a hull with splotches take 4-6 cans. I sprayed Buttercup's cockpit with flat gray, brushed deck Interlux yellow and sprayed the hull Rustoleum gloss white, put on the Newport sail. It got the most compliments.
We go by the "Galloping Horse" rule, aka the 5 foot rule. If someone rode by your boat on a galloping horse or looked at it from 5 feet, would they notice the brush marks or spray job differences? The other good axiom is that if someone doesn't like the paint job , then they can't go sailing with you
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Spraying is best; however, my first attempt at spraying the Sunfish hull was outdoors. An undetectable breeze (and warm sun) combined to produce an inconsistent finish that was disappointing considering the expense and time.
I didn't mention a couple of things:
1) The last attempt was with a foam roller and,
2) The paint used was Ace Hardware's equivalent of Rustoleum. ($28/gallon).
Within the next week, I'll try the "wet brush" technique (above) with my best brush—and report back.
Reading that again, was that one foam roller ("roll") in combination with one wet brush ("tip")?
Yes, combination. Also the foam roller should be a "closed cell" roller, that will reduce the amount of bubbles that are laid down, and the roller needs to be compatible with your paint so it doesn't melt.
Roll about a 2 foot strip, then tip with a brush. I am right handed, I like to roll "up and down", moving right to left. I'll do a 2 foot section, then switch to the brush and tip backhanded from left to right, that way the brush flows over the wet edge of the previous section and you can flow the wetter paint over the drying paint. Find what works for you, but do NOT start the tip in the dryer paint. If you start to see ridges or the brush "drags", do smaller sections or thin 5-10 percent. SOme folks keep thiner handy to dip the brush tips in. Do thin coats, I get impatient and want to do a flood coat
Good paint will handle thicker coats and it self levels after a bit, so put it on, grab a beverage and watch....it...dry.....zzzzzzzzz. AVOID the temptation to go back into drying paint and touch it up. I have sanded off a coat, reapplied and got great results.
Sailkb
Member
We go by the "Galloping Horse" rule, aka the 5 foot rule. If someone rode by your boat on a galloping horse or looked at it from 5 feet, would they notice the brush marks or spray job differences? The other good axiom is that if someone doesn't like the paint job , then they can't go sailing with you
I like that rule!
.....I think I appreciate my boat lo0king nice as it sets in my garage moreso than at the lake. Once at the lake, I actually don't care for any oh's or awh's about my boat. I just want to get on the water and catch the good wind a soon as I can. But I have to admit, after parking the car in the garage from work it's fun just to stop and take a quick look at the new paint job