old sunfish restoration - questions

C

c barrett

New Member
I am fixing up an old '72 Sunfish. I need to replace a few components. Here's my questions:

1. APS sells several types of travelers. My original had 3 loops. The center loop was where the mainsheet clipped in. Do I have to buy the original style (3 loop). Is the 2 loop assembly (appears to allow the main to travel along the bridle) seen on newer sunfishes an advantage? Why couldn't I use the 2 loop bridle on the older boat of mine?

2. APS sells a replacement bailer assembly. It appears to be made of plastic. Is there a cast aluminum version available anywhere? What is the consensus on the plastic bailers? Are your results using this good?

Thanks in advance,
C. Barrett
 
Most new sunfish just come with a 2 loop bridle. they will just tie a bowline around the bridle with the main sheet (no clip). I've had bad experiences with the clip. When we first got our sunfish they had the clip and in some heavier wind days the clip would fall off the bridle. They also sell a small block to use. I had one on my old sunfish, but it would just get sand all clogged in it. The There is a small advantage i believe to having the main sheet be able to most out of the center of that boat. If i were you I would just get the 2 loop bridle, and get rid of that clip.

As for the bailer, I prefer the plastic ones. Some people don't because they will kick the plug open, but if you have one of the balls and o-rings not a lot of water will come into the cockpit. I sail off of a sandy beach, and sand would always get into the threads of the older style metal bailer, so you wouldn't be able to open them without a tool. The only other problems I have had are, one of the 2 pins that hold the ball in have broken off, and on the rubber plug, part of it has broken off. But I wouldn't go back to a metal bailer.
 
Are the old travelers not available? My Minifish uses a length of line for the traveler. The mainsheet is supposed to connect to a plastic ring which the traveler passes through. I eliminated this ring and used a pulley instead. My two Sunfish are 71 & 72. See my recent posts on the bailer. You'll have to go with the plastic one.
 
OK. This helps me. My intent is not to race just to get the boat on the water and sail & teach my daughter (age 10). Here's what I've done so far: Cut hole for deck plates in stern (4"), center(6") and forward (4"). Dried out hull interior & removed old expanding foam. Poured in new expanding foam to set support blocks in place (those one half to one inch gaps between block and hull / deck made filling in with expaning foam a bit of work). I used the US composites 4 lb density expanding foam.
I still need to get the hull drain plug fixed and replace the old bailer which no has no ball and is badly corroded. I have yet to replace some deck hardware, repair stripped screw hole for traveler deck fitting. My bow handle was corroded badly and when I removed the screws holding the handle in place one of the screws just broke off leaving the screw embedded in the backing block under the deck. How do I get that screw out? I have a few dings in the hull to repair and must upgrade my rudder. The old rudder has a split in the wood and some of the brass hardware is missing. I assume I will have to buy new wooden rudder and rudder hardware, fill all old rudder hardware holes in the hull / deck then mount a new gudgeon to the hull (right?). I then have to replace all lines in the rigging. I bought a new sail for $100 on eBay about 2 yrs ago. It was sold as being not racing legal but a commemorative sunfish anniversay sail. The fish logo on the sail is about 3 ft diameter. I'm sure there's more work to do but it's going fairly fast.
Raced a Laser yesterday on Lopez Lake in CA which does wonders to keeps me motivated.

Thanks for the advice.
 
Older parts for your boat may be avaiable from snfish 60. As for the broken screw... Each time I prepare to replace a bow handle I have to ask myself, Will you greatly improve the boat, or will you end up with a bigger problem. The first thing I do is to start with a freshly sharpened screwdriver. Yet, this appears not to have been your problem. I don't have an answer because I've never run into that problem. The new bow handle you purchase will come with machine screws with tappered ends. Your handle was installed with wood screws, so, as you contemplate how to remove that screw, you might start looking for the proper replacement screws. Al Courtines
 
In addition, you will find the holes in the new handle are ever so slightly out of alignment with the old handle. Perhaps you should consider drilling 4 new holes, or hoping 3 screws will do the job. It would be best if the broken screw is at the rear of the handle! Al Courtines
 
Yeah, that's what I'm thinking is the best solution for the bow handle; fill the existing holes with epoxy then move the new handle aft about 1/4 inch, drill new holes being sure the holes go into the wood backing block under the deck then caulk & fasten the handle to deck with countersunk SS wood screws.

Question w/ regard to fastenting deck hardware to deck: Is there a difference between the 100% silicone caulk available at my local hardware store and the marine silicone caulk that West Marine and other marine supply retailers sell?
 
Difference in caulks? Definitely yes. Most of the caulks sold at home centers are designed for a static application with intermitted moisture contact.
Marine grade caulks specficially urathanes and poly sulfides are designed for constant water immersion.
Basically urathanes provide slightly more flexability and ease of removal than poly sulfide caulks which are mainly designed for bedding components in marine applications.
Can you find a urathane or poly sulfide caulk at a home center? Maybe; I have found a few but not really good ones and not in all stores.
 
If you want to get that screw out, drill a hole through it smaller than the screw diameter. Then use a screw extractor or if you don't have one, file a large nail end to a square shape and tap it in the hole. Unscrew it with pliers or vise grips.
 
Do you only wish to caulk? If adhering it wouldn't be a problem I suggest you use 3M 5200. This suff is as amazing as superglue. Get it at your local marine store. There's another product (perhaps 5100, I'm not at the location of my boat gear and I've only used this product once) that functions as a caulk only. I can't say enough good things about 5200. It is however, extremely messy to work with, get on your hands/transfer to other surfaces!
 
I thought marine grade silicone caulk was what people are using on their deck fittings. I guess I'm wrong. IS 3M5200 the preferred caulk / sealant for use around all the screw holes in the deck? What about the inspection port? What are all of the experinced sunfish sailors / repairers using?
 
It's been several years since any silicone caulk have been the "prefered" type of caulk. The Urathane and Poly Sulfide caulks have better adhesion, gap filling, and don't "get dirty" over time.
Urathanes are mainly for areas requiring flexability over time and the Poly Sulfides are mainly used for more "permanent" mountings such as bedding deck fixtures. IIRC 5200 is a poly sulfide. There are several version of the 3M caulk, two used in automotive use are called yellow death and black death for their color and the fact that once it gets on anything like clothes they are dead...LOL
 
So what brand & part number Urethane caulk is preferred? A search of west marine produces no urethane caulk product(s).
 
polyurethane caulk

3m 4200 is a better choice than 5200 as you may need to replace something in the future. I've ripped gel-coat off boats removing cleats ect, bedded in 5200.
One-part, all-purpose sealant chemically reacts with moisture and forms flexible, watertight, weather-resistant seals on joints and hardware. Can be used above or below the waterline; approximately half the strength of 3M’s 5200, which allows for eventual dissasembly of parts. Note: Can be softened by some teak cleaners and sealers and is not recommended for sealing teak decks.

* Formulation: One-part fast-cure polyurethane adhesive/sealant
* Recommended Usage: Fiberglass, wood, metal, some plastics, above or below water
* Material Incompatibilities: Acrylics ABS, Lexan
* Cure Time: Tack free: 2 hrs; complete cure: 24 hrs
* Cleanup: Mineral spirits or kerosene
* Removal: Mechanical removal
* Tensile strength: 300psi
 
Thanks for the info on 3M4200. I did not want to use something that holds like epoxy, just want to keep water out of the hull by sealing the deck hardware / deck interface.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Back
Top