Most Lasers were technically from the same builder until 1983, when the trademark was split between the de facto different builders in different countries (some, at least the Japanese one, had been independent earlier). But between March 1971 and April 1972 all boats actually came from Montreal. The gudgeon spacers were probably used everywhere, though, until the change to the current plastic fittings in about 1976.Wonder if all Lasers with a hull number below ??? were from the same builder.
Interesting that there's no hole in the centreboard top forward corner, but a separate fairlead. If you want to make one, it's 10 mm in diameter, and its centre is 25 mm from both edges.
At first it ooks like the blade goes too far down - the rule of thumb is that the topmost part of the trailing edge should be parallel with the aft edge of the rudder head. But comparing that to my rudders, it seems like the blade profile isn't quite the same either! The small corner on the trailing edge near the waterline is clearly even smaller here.
I'd put the downhaul cleat on the side of the tiller (and a bit more forward maybe) so the line wouldn't have to bend around like that. No big deal though.
Would like to see more of that tiller, and the homebuilt extension! What length(s) did you choose?
That's within the tolerances
So you want to update the sheet cleats. Are the old Ficos junk?
This is one thing you really want to change! Have you already looked at different choices for a ratchet block?
(Get a centreboard brake,too.)
Any plans for restoring the original shade? (I'm no expert on that, but there should be others on this forum who are.)
_
I preemptively ordered a deck hardware kit.When I went to update the cam cleats I found the new ones where a different size.
Interesting that there's no hole in the centreboard top forward corner, but a separate fairlead. If you want to make one, it's 10 mm in diameter, and its centre is 25 mm from both edges.
At first it ooks like the blade goes too far down - the rule of thumb is that the topmost part of the trailing edge should be parallel with the aft edge of the rudder head. But comparing that to my rudders, it seems like the blade profile isn't quite the same either! The small corner on the trailing edge near the waterline is clearly even smaller here.
I'd put the downhaul cleat on the side of the tiller (and a bit more forward maybe) so the line wouldn't have to bend around like that. No big deal though.
Would like to see more of that tiller, and the homebuilt extension! What length(s) did you choose?
That's within the tolerances
So you want to update the sheet cleats. Are the old Ficos junk?
This is one thing you really want to change! Have you already looked at different choices for a ratchet block?
(Get a centreboard brake,too.)
Any plans for restoring the original shade? (I'm no expert on that, but there should be others on this forum who are.)
_
Beautiful!Homemade walnut tiller
Smart.I epoxied a piece of stainless light switch cover to the bottom of the tiller handle to stop the wood from being compressed when in the rudder head.
You should have posted about this on Sunday so I could have told you to not shorten anythingThe extension is 36 inches ... This setup worked well this past Sunday except the extension was too long so I shortened it to it's present length
I found the measurements I took years ago comparing my #555 to what was then also my #116810 (since sold). There is close to an inch difference between the rudder positions measured at the lowest point. However, if the rudder sits a bit differently in the head in original vs newer rudders as the above photos suggest, that may compensate.It's interesting that only the upper gudgeon had the spacer. I understand this was the case with all boats with the stainless fittings. One would imagine this would cause the rudder to be angled slightly differently than on the plastic-gudgeon boats. But let's wait for Rob's numbers