When you do open that De Persia, plan on lubricating it.Excellent. I am going to wait until the boat has lost more weight before sealing it up- that cockpit crack is my ventilation right now! But I’m jazzed about the expert advice from each of you. Here’s how things look, and the stern flotation blocks and foam feel completely dry already! Another bonus is the DePersia bailer opens and closes freely. (not that I plan to open it much!)
I used my 12” screwdriver to reach into the yellow foam to squeeze and spear it a few times. It is not soaked- no water squeezes out- but it isn’t entirely dry. My Scorpion is next to it in the garage and feels light as a feather in comparison. I’ll let time work on it while I work on the other issues.Looks good. Put the electrical cords aside and press on some pf that expanding foam with your thumb or a putty knife, see if any water squeezes out.
Thanks for the pictures!
Cheers
Kent and Skipper
With a 50% chance, I got it wrong.Here’s another pic for better perspective: The hole in the keel is between the daggerboard trunk and the cockpit drain. I would say it’s more toward the starboard side. I was thinking I could clean up the area and inject thickened epoxy into the hole to seal it to the cockpit tub, plus the epoxy from the other side injected into the crack in the cockpit. Then layer fiberglass patch over hole in keel. Now I’m not sure if I need to cut out a big section of the keel (Shoreline) to do the job properly.
1) Is that the brown Dremel cutting wheel that uses abrasives, or the aftermarket steel wheel that has threatening teeth?The original idea of the Shore Line method was to retain the original shape of the keel. They built up on the inside of the keel, replaced and ground and filled on the damage. I do it a little differently by removing the gel coast from removed section. After applying three layers of cloth and mat inside the keel I replace the keel and apply three layers of cloth and mat over the entire outside of the keel extending about a inch onto the
hull. It's overkill for sure but it's one solid repair. The keel may break somewhere else but my fix is bullet proof. If you went with a repair for a much larger area I would stick to the original method so you only have strips to fill and sand/paint and not
a huge section without gelcoat to deal with.
Use a Dremel with a cutting wheel because it give you the most control.
The fiberglass cuts like butter plus you want the thin cutting wheel the Dremel provides. My Dremel is my most useful tool.
My least useful is a oversize Dremel call a Rotozip, also called a mistake purchase!
...look like it was done by a drunken sailor.
Wouldn't that be the case using polyester resin, rather than epoxy resin?Going to need to fiberglass the tub one way or another or it will
just crack again. Many Sunfish have a fiberglass patch on the floor
of the tub. It turns into a brown Band-aid with time. For me it's much
easier to just do the inside bottom of the tub with the Shoreline
Method and be done with it, no sanding painting the tub etc.
Good question, L&VW, I was wondering the same thing. I was going to use Flexpoxy, thinking it would allow for flexibility in the hull. I will definitely use fiberglass patch in the cockpit tub crack, but like Signal Charlie’s suggestion of filling the crack before applying patch. The tub is already ugly from previous owner’s repair so I will probably sand and paint when done, leaving a bit of skid on the floor. Great advice all around. I love this forum-Wouldn't that be the case using polyester resin, rather than epoxy resin?