I did remove 1 screw from the bow handle very carefully and was able to thread it back in so I may pluck up the courage to do then one at a time. The alternative would be to unscrew until nearly out and support the hardware on small dowels cut to length and as you say tape up the threads to stop them getting gummed up.That's a new one on me on a metal trim boat, but we haven't messed with fasteners on any metal trim boats 1983-1987. At one point the manufacturer du jour switched to a self threading machine screw with metal plate backer, no nut, but I thought that was when they moved over to the rolled edge boats circa 1988.
But to keep the plate itself (or a wooden backer block) always leave at least one screw in. Loosen the screws a tiny bit, remove all but one screw, swivel the hardware to the side, reinsert at least one screw. Then we tape those screws so when we paint they don't get all gummed up.
Perhaps that is the answer, where did you make your cuts? I used a grinder to remove this transom and replace it with Cooza board.My 69 fish has all machine screws now, as I put in 1/4" alum backing plates and tapped the screws into them. Doubtful, but possibly the previous owner did something similar. By the way, I don't have any inspection ports on the deck, as I cut out access holes on the bottom, epoxied backing plates as needed and re-glassed my cutouts. Inspections ports are fine, but I preferred not to have any on the deck....plus my chainsaw cuts fiberglass easily!! ha!
Don't know specifically, there are others here with way more knowledge as you will see. I have removed 1 screw from mine and put it back in so there is something holding the nut or a backing plate. I would wait for greater knowledge the guys here have helped me a lotHi-jacking the thread. I want to replace my bow handle on my 1998 vanguard sunfish. Should I run away or is there backing wood under it?
Just opposite of the hardware. Slightly cut thru some foam for the bridle eyestraps...but was ok for the mast stuff and bow handle, cutting just off center from the keel line.Perhaps that is the answer, where did you make your cuts? I used a grinder to remove this transom and replace it with Cooza board.
I assume that if it is a machine screw put it back and don't replace the bow handle?I think Vanguard went to aluminum backing plates. Remove one screw and
determine if it's a wood or machine screw.
Thanks, I don't know why I don't think of Ebay, perhaps having the Sunfish will educate me!
Yup that looks like the way to goThat about sums it up. Remove trim, find the split seams, fix seams, replace trim. One
of these days I'll buy a Sunfish that doesn't have the splits, it's just a low probability
occurrence for me.
Went sailing, and must've hit a big wake. Checked my Great Stuff repair of one front Styrofoam log. It had broken loose..
You can probably tap those blocks back into position with a rubber mallet, then use the two part closed cell flotation foam like TotalBoat Flotation Foam or Fiberglast. I'm tempted at times to use Great Stuff, it is not closed cell but if you don't let it stay wet...hmmmm.... Whatever you use, wear old clothes, long sleeve shirt, and gloves. I got my hand coated with that stuff once and thought I was going to lose a layer of skin.